Truck is struggling after new battery replacement…

[preston42]

Anyone experience this? So frustrated…
Story starts with my 2019 Ram Rebel not starting in the cold about 2 weeks ago. Took battery in it was low and got a new Duralast H7 battery. It started up, after a few hours all systems reset (yes I’ve read other battery threads here), and I thought I was good. 3 days later on a cold 30 degree morning (in TX that’s cold) the truck started but was throwing a CEL light and then started randomly flashing different things on the dash “trailer brake unavailable”, and others. I got it back home and the next day the red battery emblem was flashing on the dash along with the CEL light (P0456-evap system sensor stating slow leak) and while truck was running under load this time voltage was creeping up to 15-15.1V. This morning, another cool morning at 40 degrees and it won’t start up. I tested the battery with my multimeter and it’s at 12.5V but won’t start this AM. I tested the batter yesterday evening with multimeter under no load when it was 65-70 degrees and it tested at 14.3, and under load it was 14.6V. Something seems wrong with the charging system.

I’m no mechanic and at a loss…is there a parasitic draw draining the battery? Problems with starting seem exclusive to cold weather, why? Could it be a bad IBS sensor that’s on the battery connection, bad voltage regulator in alternator, bad alternator in general, etc.? Will a PCM / BCM flash help?

I have an appt with dealership next Wednesday but just seeing if anyone has ideas or experienced something similar. Thanks

 

[Richard320]

Bizarre, seemingly unrelated issues make me suspicious of a bad ground connection.

 

[LaxDfns15]

Bizarre, seemingly unrelated issues make me suspicious of a bad ground connection.

Agreed. I'd check your cables to your battery (tightness, nothing broken) as well as ground connections. Common problem is a ground connection being placed on a painted surface.

 

[ekaz]

Could be the alternator going out and not providing enough juice to run everything

 

[djevox]

If your multimeter measurements are correct with the static charge and charging voltage, I don’t see a problem with the battery or charging system. Even if there’s a parasitic drain that’s not normal, your battery has enough static voltage to power all required modules and start. I have to look at the Theory & Operation of the starting system, but if it were me, I’d start with looking at what the PCM and BCM think the voltage is and compare it to battery voltage.

 

[c3k]

I'm no expert...but: these batteries are NOT directly connected to ground. They've got a battery sensor. It's actually got an internal disconnect, a chip, and two wires feeding into it. It's pretty much a simple computer-controlled relay. Input voltage via the small wires, and the working current is from the negative terminal of the battery, through the relay, to the grounding strap.

I'd suspect that component.

Do at your own risk: disconnect the ground strap from the sensor and just hook the grounding strap directly to the negative terminal and see if the truck will start.

 

[preston42]

Thanks everyone for the input as again I'm no mechanic this was helpful info. Update: as it warmed up this morning into the 60's around 11am I got into the vehicle to try starting again and it fired up. Drove it 3 loops around the neighborhood and started receiving the random lights on the dash including the battery light again (while running it was at 14.6V per the dash), this time the backup camera wasn't working and missing features of the passenger heated seating. So many wonky issues. I have a Dealer appt next Wednesday but will check the ground connections in the meantime and if I can get my hands on a new IBS sensor might try swapping it beforehand to see if that helps.

 

[kapinallinen2]

Thanks everyone for the input as again I'm no mechanic this was helpful info. Update: as it warmed up this morning into the 60's around 11am I got into the vehicle to try starting again and it fired up. Drove it 3 loops around the neighborhood and started receiving the random lights on the dash including the battery light again (while running it was at 14.6V per the dash), this time the backup camera wasn't working and missing features of the passenger heated seating. So many wonky issues. I have a Dealer appt next Wednesday but will check the ground connections in the meantime and if I can get my hands on a new IBS sensor might try swapping it beforehand to see if that helps.

IBS is a current sensor, current doughnut, that bolt going thru it is a direct connection from the battery negative post to the vehicle grounds.
Your voltage reading of 15+ volts while charging looks little high, 12.5v is plenty enough to turn the engine over unless it sags due to high internal resistance of the battery or a poor connection.
I agree with checking the battery connections for tightness.

edit: all the other random stuff should return to normal after the truck gets done re-booting, give it a half a day or so.

 

[hellmans]

check ground near battery attached to left fender closer to windshield

 

[Darksteel165]

I know this doesn't help much but I have heard of people of people replacing OEM with after market and having problems. Once they switched back to an OEM brand battery things worked fine.
I wonder if there's something special in an OEM battery that isn't on regular batteries?

 

[turkeybird56]

Anyone experience this? So frustrated…
Story starts with my 2019 Ram Rebel not starting in the cold about 2 weeks ago. Took battery in it was low and got a new Duralast H7 battery. It started up, after a few hours all systems reset (yes I’ve read other battery threads here), and I thought I was good. 3 days later on a cold 30 degree morning (in TX that’s cold) the truck started but was throwing a CEL light and then started randomly flashing different things on the dash “trailer brake unavailable”, and others. I got it back home and the next day the red battery emblem was flashing on the dash along with the CEL light (P0456-evap system sensor stating slow leak) and while truck was running under load this time voltage was creeping up to 15-15.1V. This morning, another cool morning at 40 degrees and it won’t start up. I tested the battery with my multimeter and it’s at 12.5V but won’t start this AM. I tested the batter yesterday evening with multimeter under no load when it was 65-70 degrees and it tested at 14.3, and under load it was 14.6V. Something seems wrong with the charging system.

I’m no mechanic and at a loss…is there a parasitic draw draining the battery? Problems with starting seem exclusive to cold weather, why? Could it be a bad IBS sensor that’s on the battery connection, bad voltage regulator in alternator, bad alternator in general, etc.? Will a PCM / BCM flash help?

I have an appt with dealership next Wednesday but just seeing if anyone has ideas or experienced something similar. Thanks

FYI OP: I am in TX too with below freezing temps, hopefully not another Feb 2021, LOL.)

OK, just ran into this problem with MY 19 DT truck. I changed battery out in November. On Sunday, battery was down to almost nothing and every friggin code thrown. Charged up enuf to get it to turnover and catch. Went and got another Duralast Platinum AGM. Turns out, when U PUT in a New Battery with these systems that has an IBS sensor, U have to "recalibrate it". Talked to lead mechanic and he stated: what they do is simple:
1. Start truck and let run for a while if you have not returned from a trip/ride.
2. Park, turn off truck and restart
3. Turn off truck.
4. Just pull the ground cable (attached with 10 MM bolt from the top of the IBS, do not take IBS off battery or anything else, just the ground strap. Make sure ground strap stays off of IBS for at least 2 hours, he recommends 4 hours.
5. Reattach the ground strap to the IBS (you will see a little spark), and that recalibrates the sensor.

My truck was charging at 14.8 Volts and overcharging the new battery, not letting systems run properly. He said most Dealerships just let the vehicle sit and then charge another 4 hours of labor, and he does not do that, (he is their lead mechanic).

Such a simple thing. There U go OP. He actually suggested drive for the day. Park. At evening start and turn off. Then take off the strap and let sit overnight and not forget to reattach , lol.

SO currently, my ride sitting out front, cable taken off and I will reattach in the AM.

 

[Darksteel165]

4. Just pull the ground cable (attached with 10 MM bolt from the top of the IBS, do not take IBS off battery or anything else, just the ground strap. Make sure ground strap stays off of IBS for at least 2 hours, he recommends 4 hours.
5. Reattach the ground strap to the IBS (you will see a little spark), and that recalibrates the sensor.

Is that actually safe to do? Remove the ground on an existing DC circuit? Seems like a good way to fry the electronics in your truck.

 

[turkeybird56]

Is that actually safe to do? Remove the ground on an existing DC circuit? Seems like a good way to fry the electronics in your truck.

WHAT I was told, quite literally by the Lead Mechanic at RAM Dealership. He even took me into bay and showed/explained all. I did last night, let sit a lot of hours then re-attached, no issues. CAN only report on what I personally experienced.

 

[Mr.Grid]

Are you saying to remove that 10mm nut that this charging clamp is presently on in the picture, and then remove the ground strap from top of the IBS ??

 

[Sixxshooter]

I just had the same problem with this battery sensor . My 2020 ram Rebel all of a sudden went bonkers on my driveway and wouldn’t start . Weird pinging noises coming from speakers and what seems like electrical shorts all
over the electronics . Had to have my truck towed to dealership . Unfortunately my 3 year 36 mile warranty had just expired but I had the Chrysler warranties MAX CARE PLAN with my dealer claimed doesn’t cover Battery sensors . Absolute joke ! Cost me $629 for new battery and sensor also there man hours

 

[kapinallinen2]

A bad battery sensor? that`s a new one... or a rare one.

 

[Mr.Grid]

I just had the same problem with this battery sensor . My 2020 ram Rebel all of a sudden went bonkers on my driveway and wouldn’t start . Weird pinging noises coming from speakers and what seems like electrical shorts all
over the electronics . Had to have my truck towed to dealership . Unfortunately my 3 year 36 mile warranty had just expired but I had the Chrysler warranties MAX CARE PLAN with my dealer claimed doesn’t cover Battery sensors . Absolute joke ! Cost me $629 for new battery and sensor also there man hours

I looked at my Mopar Max Care contract and it states on P6

THE PLAN WILL NOT COVER, OR APPLY TO LOSS OR EXPENSE RESULTING FROM:
Battery and cables;

Does the dealer repair say a battery cable was replaced? If not I’d dispute it with Mopar/ FCA.

 

[thoper]

Same problem but different...Hemi eco/hybrid engine. Battery replaced and problems did not go away. Dealer updated software and replaced power management control unit.....all is well. The Hybrid system includes the power management system along with the lithium battery etc. No charge for the PMS replacement because the hybrid system covered for 80K miles. (my 19 RAM has 53k miles). Don't know if this helps.

 

[Sixxshooter]

Thanks guys . monday morning I’m gonna call Chrysler warranties . Com and question them on if or why this battery sensor is not covered. The situation is that if the 3 year 36 thousand mile warranty is expired and my MOPAR max care plant doesn’t cover it , THEN what if this sensors goes bad again next week or next year for that matter ? It’s gonna frie another battery that I have to pay for?? How do I protect myself from this happening again ? That $90 battery sensor causes such massive problems when it fails . It’s bull **** .

 

[Darksteel165]

Thanks guys . monday morning I’m gonna call Chrysler warranties . Com and question them on if or why this battery sensor is not covered. The situation is that if the 3 year 36 thousand mile warranty is expired and my MOPAR max care plant doesn’t cover it , THEN what if this sensors goes bad again next week or next year for that matter ? It’s gonna frie another battery that I have to pay for?? How do I protect myself from this happening again ? That $90 battery sensor causes such massive problems when it fails . It’s bull **** .

Almost all parts come with a 1 year warranty, not including labor.

Still try and get max care to cover it anyways though imo.
Can you share the part number on your invoice you paid for the sensor?