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From what I've heard MF sounds great but personally I'd go with either Borla or Carven. All have similar Hemi sound with these trucks but from what I've seen and heard smaller mufflers are louder. And depending on what you do with cats and resonators the tone will change.
That's why I always opt for whatever kind of locking doff is available. But my 2500 anti spin axle never slips. It's an LSD that will lock every time it needs to. It loves to stay locked if there's power going to it. Maybe a little too much though
Very true. I've had the "normal" anti slip in Rams before and my '01 Cummins does as well. And they perform very well in those situations when you immediately need traction or else your slipping and sliding around. The e locker as you mentioned really is only good when you need full locking all...
My truck has Duratracs too and I keep all four of them at 64 psi cold. They are 295/65R18s. E rated heavy duty. Maybe 75R...I have to double check. Max pressure is 80 but goodyear recommends a 10 to 15% deflation from max. Which puts them right at 64 to 69 psi cold. Mine raise 4 to 5 psi while...
I'm looking at doing the same. I'll start with a Carven muffler then if I want to change the sound start removing resonators if I have to. If Carvens full cat back is close to the same price as just the muffler I might get it all but for the price difference you mentioned staring with the...
I have an S&B on my Cummins and it's so good I'm putting one on my new 1500 Hemi very soon. Better everything including power and I did have my truck dyno'd after. Will show charts soon. I'm also a huge fan of Carven and will be getting that as well.
I like the blacked out pieces but honestly color and contrast look better. I hate chrome especially fake chrome and that's the only thing I don't like on the Longhorn. But I'm taking all those pieces and having them powder coated anyway. So good bye chrome and it'll look even better than that...
They claim because it was still dealer property it's still brand new saying it was never purchased by anyone so even with the miles it's still full price and new. So be careful buying something they've been kicking around for a while.
That's why I always custom configure and order new vehicles. I never settle for what's already at a dealership. You never know what they do to it but you can guess. The manager of my local Ram dealership always takes the newest most expensive model as his personal business truck drives it until...
But usually it should have a good driving oil already... hopefully. Definitely ask people at your dealership about that. Anyway, that's what I do everytime. Following this 3 phase heat cycling method to seat the rings faster and more effectively.
Again that was older engines but the principle is the same and after break in I'm ready to upgrade to my choice of synthetic oil anyway. Some engine builders even say to change the oil first then break in the engine then change it again. Sometimes this is good if the engine still has...
And yes, it'll be nasty already and your engine will want new oil. Newer engines like these should be clean and efficient enough to be ok at this point but I have seen some engines after this break in method leave metal particles in the oil because as the rings are seating they are leaving...
I did this with my last new truck with a friend. We grabbed a few favorite beverages went down a county road out of town and just enjoyed the ride. After all 3 phases heat cycling in those different rpm ranges I'll finally drive home or too the shop and drain that oil. Get rid of it and the...
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