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They claim because it was still dealer property it's still brand new saying it was never purchased by anyone so even with the miles it's still full price and new. So be careful buying something they've been kicking around for a while.

That's why I always custom configure and order new vehicles. I never settle for what's already at a dealership. You never know what they do to it but you can guess. The manager of my local Ram dealership always takes the newest most expensive model as his personal business truck drives it until...

And it's a great way to spend some extra time enjoying my new truck nice and slow. At least in the beginning. Get Outlook for Android

But usually it should have a good driving oil already... hopefully. Definitely ask people at your dealership about that. Anyway, that's what I do everytime. Following this 3 phase heat cycling method to seat the rings faster and more effectively.

Again that was older engines but the principle is the same and after break in I'm ready to upgrade to my choice of synthetic oil anyway. Some engine builders even say to change the oil first then break in the engine then change it again. Sometimes this is good if the engine still has...

And yes, it'll be nasty already and your engine will want new oil. Newer engines like these should be clean and efficient enough to be ok at this point but I have seen some engines after this break in method leave metal particles in the oil because as the rings are seating they are leaving...

I did this with my last new truck with a friend. We grabbed a few favorite beverages went down a county road out of town and just enjoyed the ride. After all 3 phases heat cycling in those different rpm ranges I'll finally drive home or too the shop and drain that oil. Get rid of it and the...

A lot of people say driving hard and getting on the throttle to make power is a good break in method but even though it does cause heating and cooling it's no where near as effective. And they drive that way for over 1000 miles to fulfill break in. A couple hours in my brand new vehicle enjoying...

Of course you don't want a load on the engine which is why I do this slow and steady never hitting the gas too hard and never ever flooring it. Also if you're in too high a gear and get on the gas too much it'll bog down and increase load. That's where lower gears help and always go easy on the...

Do this just like phase 1 and make sure you watch the temp. It'll help and let you know it's working. Finally, you can step up to 3300 or so for the last phase. Around 3300 the engine is starting to make peak torque or at least has the most load on it in the case of hard accelerating or towing.

Phase 2 is the same but slightly higher rpm. I'll use almost half throttle if required and again in 2nd or 3rd gear around 2000 or 2200 rpm. You can do it in 1st too if you want to just go a little slower. Again it's about time spent not distance. 2100 is about where the engine starts making a...

The last racing engine I had built they took that long. It was a whole day of this, luckily they didn't charge me extra for labor or time because break in was part of the engine build. Anyway, I'll spend up to a half hour in each phase just to heat and cool over and over and over.