Recent content by 805myth1

I dealt with that issue on mine, I had to replace the whole tailgate harness. But there is no specific part number for it. And the one they sale, which is just the small coax cable, doesn’t work. The only way I was able to get the harness was from a friend that works at a wrecking yard.

Yes I am happy with how it all turned out. But I have completely sound deaden the inner door skin, outer black panel and the door panel, along with foam. And also fast ring around the mid woofer, with it all together it has increased the mid bass response.

I also tried to remove that plastic panel but after some time I gave up on removing it. So I removed all the 10mm bolts and was just able to pry it open enough to get my arms in to be able to put the sound deadening on the inner door skin. It took me about 40 mins on each front door.

Really once you remove the (3) 10mm bolts then you just need to use a panel removal tool or something to pry the clips loose. Then pull firmly and the door panel should come off.

I had the dsr1 previously but like you mentioned the sound would get some distortion and I could not get rid of it. I switched to the iDatalink Maestro AR2 which allows you to use any dsp you want, instead of settling for the dsr1. Plus it uses the same t harness that I used for the dsr1 so it...

Yeah I was going to make the hatch into a boombox, was planning to run about 5K+ watts but I didn’t have time or energy to fully invest into it so I ditched it. Yeah I saw that 12” screen for sale but with the Hertz S8 dsp controlling the sound, I’m good with the 8.4.

Lol but yeah glad I ditched the ds18’s and went with all cdt. I had the truck setup with a 2 way front stage before but after selling my project civic, I decided to go full active 3 way. Now just need to build a new ported enclosure for the new Pioneer subwoofer.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07SSXSP7X?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title Didn’t get the nickel type but I did use these. I usually go a bit overkill when it comes to my audio setup.

Not only that, I hole sawed two 1 1/4” holes for 1/0 power wire and grounding to the frame. Overkill but fine with me.

Nope not drywall screws, but it is through the floor lol.

Current subwoofer setup, SoundQubed HDS3.212 D4 in 1.7 cu ft tuned to 32 hz.

Even if you don’t have the e-torque system there are still grounds used behind the rear seat for other electrical systems. But I’m sure you can relocate them.

I would suggest looking into the idatalink maestro website to look at the different factory integration options they have and see which works best for your budget. I currently have their Rockford Fosgate DSR1. It uses a T harness so there is no need to cut factory wiring or needing to run new...

Finally finished installing all the new components upgrades to the audio system. New silk dome tweeters, along with pillar pods for 3.5” mids. And I completed the new ported box for the new sub.