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https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ado-49agm I upgraded to this battery, inexpensive and good amount of CCA’s.

For mine all I did was glue 2 pieces of 1/2” mdf and then got 1” longer bolts from my supplier.

I have 3 amps, the one under the seat is the bass amp, then on the back wall behind the 40 split of the rear seat, I have the other 2 amps. I ran 1/0 power wire from gp audio to a 3 way fuse block knukonceptz.

I would just use that same harness but use a dsp with hi level inputs so you won’t need the 4 channel loc.

No Etorque in my truck but I have seen others place their amplifiers on that side as well. And yes to get a clean audio signal from these trucks you’re going to need to spend a little, but if you’re serious about your sound system then it’s definitely worth the investment. If my truck didn’t...

First I would ditch the ds18 loc and go with a different method. I used the Rockford Fosgate DSR1, which is plug and play and removes the acn/ factory amplifier completely, so all speakers are on aftermarket amplifiers. There is also the PAC amp pro, which works like a loc but also comes with...

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ado-49agm?seid=srese1&gclid=CjwKCAjw0ZiiBhBKEiwA4PT9zyXIplp4J8MVGDoFLuuGBGo6tDE-Z1zhvhNXX4LZDAEEdBdpGmdFURoCu08QAvD_BwE I did upgrade the stock battery to that AC Delco agm battery. I down sized from a Taramps Bass 3K to a 1200 watt NVX amp, so I never got the...

My audio system’s details are in my signature. But it has changed over time. Right now I’m running a sort of modified 3 way for the front stage, with a super tweeter in the center of the dash, 3” mid range in the dash corners and 6.5” mid bass in the door. And only a single 12” for the bass...

I didn’t use a kit from them, just the 1/0 power wire. There are a few grounding studs near the back wall, I just sanded off the paint around them, then sprayed it with clear.

I used that exact same 1/0 wire for my system. It wasn’t too difficult to run along the door sills and I even had room to run 14 gauge wires from dash and door speakers with the 1/0 wire.

Not familiar with the e-torque, but I would think you would still do the chassis ground and battery ground. Then possibly just follow the positive wire from the battery to wherever it goes to?

https://5thgenrams.com/community/threads/can-you-add-etorque-on-after-production.7803/

Just use a shallow mount sub so you don’t need to raise the seats.

Never got around to post some changes I made to my sound system. Fabricated a new box for this pair of NVX VCW102, coated in bed liner. Swapped in the D4S JP234 and Sony XM-222 for tweeter, dash and door speakers. Put these CDT Audio 2” in the dash corner locations. Removed the fuse...

The battery I’m planning to get is a lithium battery so it’s only 7”x4.75”x3.5,” planning to mount it under the rear seat

With the fuse, was up to 14.3v. Not sure I remember before big 3. Might have been up to 14.1v. But that was also with the 180 alternator not this 220 I have now.

I took out the fuse and re ran the alternator power wire. While driving, voltage goes up to 14.5v now. Also found a mounting location for the isolator relay, just need to buy the secondary battery.

Not sure, I just know my big horn came with a 180 amp alternator.

I could always just got direct lead without the fuse since it is a stock upgrade to a 220 amp, replaced my stock 180 to a used 220. But when I do eventually upgrade to a 300+, I will be adding a second power fused wire.

I set mine up with the ground from the alternator bolt, and I fused my power wire for future upgrades. Currently with about 2400 watts rms and voltage from 13.8 - 14.3v. Plan is for a 300 amp h/o alternator and a D4S lithium battery to run about 4200 watts .