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Gotta maintain the old Russian proverb, "Trust, but verify." You should be just fine, but if any hiccups or "whoopsie poopsies" occur, it's better to have them at home! I'm also gonna second what John Kloehr said above, light driving for a little after the repair for break in, and maybe replace...
Had my 3.92 E Locker rear rebuilt at around 105,000 miles by an independent shop and it has been flawless so far. My issue was that the pinion bearing was shredded. You should be just fine so long as your dealer does a thorough job. Swapping the whole axle assembly is not a small job however...
I went with OEM, I wanted it to perfectly match the passengers side. Buy once cry once was the mentality I had for that purchase. It wasn't the cheapest option, but I've been burned by crummy aftermarket parts before.
Maybe its time to change the fluid in your rear diff with some new friction modifier?
If it is your rear brakes dragging a bit, that makes sense to me as well.
Shot in the dark, but did you verify the correct fluid level in the transmission? Almost sounds like your torque converter was slipping or failing to lock up.
Actually now that I’m thinking I did get a “service throttle body” message after a few long cranking periods killed my battery up in the frozen north. Had my fuel freeze up earlier this year on a ski trip. I do not recall the P00AF code being in there though.
If it sounds kind of like crickets chirping then it will most likely be your front brake pad clips. My truck had the same issue and after replacing the pad hardware only (for $8.00 and an hour of my time) the noise went away. You could also try lightly greasing the surface of the clips where...
Agreed in relation to the block heater, as the block heater primarily heats the coolant passage above the oil pan so the oil doesn’t absorb much of the heat until the engine is running and the cooler/heat exchanger in the radiator does its thing. Gotta love a thermally efficient engine!
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