What did you do to your Ram today???

[boogielander]

You can really tell a difference in the ride with a few psi lower? Am I reading that correctly ? Incredible

yes. but also depends on your tire and suspension as well.
when i went to F rated tires (12 ply) I had to go more to feel the difference because how stiff they are. At F rated tires with 450lb springs in the front and Carli Rebel HD in the rear, 40 PSI with max low speed compression setting was perfect on pavement. When I went F rated tires with 600lb springs in the front and Clayton 2.5 Triple Rate HD in the rear, 40 PSI with max low speed compression setting was a bit too stiff in the front (borderline not enjoyable to drive). When I went F rated tires with 600lb springs in the front (rear is always maxed out low and high speed compression), minimum low speed compression in the front took about 50% of the stiffness.
Then, I went down to 35psi (and now 33psi at times, due to elevation and temperature change when airing up that I never bothered to change because the tires are be deflated again pretty soon) and that took another 30% of the stiffness.

 

[Jako]

Changed the rear differential fluid today. Good times!

So what did you use?

 

[1.21gigawatts]

I'm running 40 on Falken Wildpeak AT4W 285/65R20

I’m about to get these for mine finally as my Duracraps are beyond done haha. ( I’m honestly amazed they lasted 52k) and have been considering dropping the 3/4 ton-esque pressures they gave us on the rebels by putting load range E on em. (Thanks FCA ) so are you 40 all around then? (I take it you adjusted the e tpms thresh?)

Funny to hearing all this pressure debate and the sticker on the door of my 2500 Cummins was 50 front, and 60 rear. Load range E as well. so not higher in the front on a dies-nutz-el.

 

[1.21gigawatts]

im seeing this as a joke and am laughing my *** off but i guess everyone didn't see it that way LOL

Just put my utility trailer tires up to 90psi, let see how my friend’s move goes next week.

 

[boogielander]

Just put my utility trailer tires up to 90psi, let see how my friend’s move goes next week.

better turn off your phone so you don't get the "hey why is the trailer so bouncy that everything fell off!"

 

[boogielander]

Well these got delivered on Wednesday but I forgot to take pictures.

Honestly I kinda dig this brushed aluminum look.
Then, I did some mocking up using some certified Made in USA aluminum stocks to check placement and test my theory on brackets.

More in my build thread.

 

[JamRam]

I got a squeak developing somewhere in the front too. It's low speed turning, like in a parking lot. Can't tell if it's suspension or steering, I need to investigate. I'm assuming it's a ball joint / uca issue though since I did a level and never upgraded arms.

Did u ever figure this out?

I got one now too. Its both embarrassing and worrisome.

 

[Aivars]

very nice. how much work involved getting the wires to the door?
or you already have lights in the door at night from factory?

Yes, I missed your question earlier.
Regarding wiring, in this ambient light kit the installation in each door starts and ends inside the door panel itself, so there is no need to run any additional wiring through the door jamb into the cabin. The system uses five separate control modules: one master module for the dashboard/front section, and four slave modules, one dedicated to each door. Each slave module only needs a 12V power feed, which can be taken directly from the door module wiring, and that’s it—no extra wires are required for power or signal between the cabin and the doors. The only real work is the mechanical side: integrating the LED strip neatly into the door trim and routing everything cleanly so it looks OEM and nothing rattles. It took a bit of hands-on effort, but the result came out very clean.

 

[Greaser]

Oncoming drivers flashing their lights are usually due to a multitude of issues.

1. Lifted trucks that have not had headlights adjusted down (should always be done).
2. Headlight bulbs being installed into housings they are not designed for (ie LED lights inside halogen housings, etc.).
3. Warning of crash, emergency vehicles, or other hazards ahead.

It was only drivers going there same way as me and only those that I had passed at speeds little more than theirs, so they had plenty of time to drink in all that lovely blue shiny stuff and whatever else it was that made them reach for the flasher stick...

 

[Greaser]

Two nice new tires fitted Friday and today I did the front shocks, not nearly as much of a PITA as I was expecting and while I was down there I checked the balljoints and bushings and found all in nice tight order. Truck rides less like a clown car now, which is nice!

 

[Rock Crawler]

It was only drivers going there same way as me and only those that I had passed at speeds little more than theirs, so they had plenty of time to drink in all that lovely blue shiny stuff and whatever else it was that made them reach for the flasher stick...

Maybe they felt that your brights were on while you were behind them (blinding in the side/rearview mirrors). Who knows?

 

[RAM REAPER MAN]

Changed the rear differential fluid today. Good times!

Did you put back anything good?

 

[boogielander]

Yes, I missed your question earlier.
Regarding wiring, in this ambient light kit the installation in each door starts and ends inside the door panel itself, so there is no need to run any additional wiring through the door jamb into the cabin. The system uses five separate control modules: one master module for the dashboard/front section, and four slave modules, one dedicated to each door. Each slave module only needs a 12V power feed, which can be taken directly from the door module wiring, and that’s it—no extra wires are required for power or signal between the cabin and the doors. The only real work is the mechanical side: integrating the LED strip neatly into the door trim and routing everything cleanly so it looks OEM and nothing rattles. It took a bit of hands-on effort, but the result came out very clean.

glad to hear that. there's a kit out there that requires wiring through the door jamb and that's what kept me from doing it.
are the control modules in this kit controlled wirelessly? just to be clear, your truck does not have the stock ambient lighting package right?

 

[Aivars]

glad to hear that. there's a kit out there that requires wiring through the door jamb and that's what kept me from doing it.
are the control modules in this kit controlled wirelessly? just to be clear, your truck does not have the stock ambient lighting package right?

Yep, I know exactly what you mean — the kits that force you to run wiring through the door jamb are a pain, and that’s exactly why I went with this style of system. No door-jamb wiring needed: all wiring and the light install happens inside each door panel. Control is wireless between modules (master to door modules), so you’re not running signal wires through the jamb. Power is local in each door: each door module just needs 12V and ground, which I tapped from the door’s factory module power inside the door. The lighting is controlled in two ways: first through the phone app, and second via the physical button/controller that comes with the main module. And yes, my truck did not come with the factory ambient lighting package — this is an aftermarket add-on, not OEM.

 

[Ready Go]

lol! Me too! I'm at 33 psi front and rear on my MTs Toyos 35s. Just feels way better! Unfortunately the Diablo I3 does not have the tpms setup to adjust (I thought it did) so I always have the warning light! I hate it! haha

AlfaOBD programming works great for this..I recently reset my thresholds to 35F/32R after my rear tires dropped to 30psi and triggered a warning light on a brutal cold day. I run 39F/36R in summer, but drop to 36F/33R in winter because our Wisconsin roads turn to crap!

 

[CHeYeNNe71]

I’m about to get these for mine finally as my Duracraps are beyond done haha. ( I’m honestly amazed they lasted 52k) and have been considering dropping the 3/4 ton-esque pressures they gave us on the rebels by putting load range E on em. (Thanks FCA ) so are you 40 all around then? (I take it you adjusted the e tpms thresh?)

Funny to hearing all this pressure debate and the sticker on the door of my 2500 Cummins was 50 front, and 60 rear. Load range E as well. so not higher in the front on a dies-nutz-el.

I just run 40 F/R to make things even, plus I have a topper for a little extra weight. I don't get into all the specifics with tire PSI like some do. They work and ride great!

 

[KichoRebel]

AlfaOBD programming works great for this..I recently reset my thresholds to 35F/32R after my rear tires dropped to 30psi and triggered a warning light on a brutal cold day. I run 39F/36R in summer, but drop to 36F/33R in winter because our Wisconsin roads turn to crap!

I have no idea how to use AlfaOBD, is it hard? Is it less expensive than buying the Tazer ($330)?

 

[1.21gigawatts]

I have no idea how to use AlfaOBD, is it hard? Is it less expensive than buying the Tazer ($330)?

You can also use JScan if you have an iphone, its basically the same. but as i understand it, AlfaOBD is free, (like Jscan) amirite guys??

 

[CHeYeNNe71]

You can also use JScan if you have an iphone, its basically the same. but as i understand it, AlfaOBD is free, (like Jscan) amirite guys??

I don't think Jscan is free and AlphaOBD is definitely not free.

 

[Ready Go]

I have no idea how to use AlfaOBD, is it hard? Is it less expensive than buying the Tazer ($330)?

Don't hold me to these numbers, it's been a couple years..AlfaOBD about $30 from Google Playstore, a Bypass Spliter maybe $20, and a Bluetooth OBD Connector maybe $100??