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180 degree thermostat

Shouldn't the shutters be wide open at that temp? I see why people remove them now. May put that on the bucket list too. From what others say that have done the tstat is it def brings down temps across the board. I get that no matter what tstat is in there the system still has a hard limit on max capacity. Coolant is right on par in the expansion tank. Doing a coolant flush tomorrow and refill with some of this. Will report how the system responds.
Don`t forget to pull a vacuum on the system to get rid of the trapped air, or you could have overheating problems.
 
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Shouldn't the shutters be wide open at that temp? I see why people remove them now. May put that on the bucket list too. From what others say that have done the tstat is it def brings down temps across the board. I get that no matter what tstat is in there the system still has a hard limit on max capacity. Coolant is right on par in the expansion tank. Doing a coolant flush tomorrow and refill with some of this. Will report how the system responds.
Shutter will open up if engine gets got. I do not know what that temp is, but since the fans don't turn on until 224 Is imagine the shutters are about the same temp range.
 
For the record what Brand 180 tstats are you guys running? I assume OEM is only available in 203. Also what tuners are you using to reprogram fan speed and the like? Thanks!
 
For the record what Brand 180 tstats are you guys running? I assume OEM is only available in 203. Also what tuners are you using to reprogram fan speed and the like? Thanks!
Check High Horse Performance (HHP) sells Hemi t-stats 180° and others. Mishimoto and one or two others if I remember correct. If you get a tune/tuner, they'll advise you what to set the Fan temps to also.
 
Don`t forget to pull a vacuum on the system to get rid of the trapped air, or you could have overheating problems.
You are spot on here. I flushed a gallon and a half of coolant out of the radiator (about half of the system) and refilled with the peak. Did the old school method of burping (with my custom funnel!) heat on, got up to temp, revved, opened and closed tstat multiple times, restarted multiple times, capped it, drove it, opened in burped it again. I think there is still air in there as it heats up pretty quick at idle. Fine while driving but im going to flush another gallon of coolant and then refill using this that should be arriving tomorrow:


In the mean time I'm driving around and temps seem about the same unless im parked idling. So i should have about 75% new coolant and no air by Sunday if all goes well. Figured if I'm going to be opening up the system to change thermostats than may as well get the correct tool for refilling.
 

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You are spot on here. I flushed a gallon and a half of coolant out of the radiator (about half of the system) and refilled with the peak. Did the old school method of burping (with my custom funnel!) heat on, got up to temp, revved, opened and closed tstat multiple times, restarted multiple times, capped it, drove it, opened in burped it again. I think there is still air in there as it heats up pretty quick at idle. Fine while driving but im going to flush another gallon of coolant and then refill using this that should be arriving tomorrow:


In the mean time I'm driving around and temps seem about the same unless im parked idling. So i should have about 75% new coolant and no air by Sunday if all goes well. Figured if I'm going to be opening up the system to change thermostats than may as well get the correct tool for refilling.
I need to get that re-filler.
Just added a small bottle of nitrogen from a local welding supply store and a vacuum pump from harbor freight to my tool kit.
https://www.harborfreight.com/deep-rotary-vane-2-stage-vacuum-pump-58141.html
I figured it is good enough for harry the home owner and DIY`er.
 
I ended up getting the vacuum pump in hand. Have not used it yet, as my overfill was a couple notches high after the antifreeze swap but after running it for a couple days the fluid level dropped back under max so I think the system does eventually purge the air into the overflow tank. Seems to be running fine now, no overheat running 199-210 under normal driving. Have not messed with the thermostat yet.
 
Ordered the HHP 180* T stat. Looking at the Diablo trinity tuner with PCM to tune this girl up. Currently ice fishing weather here in Michigan so going to do a full flush in the spring while installing the new 180 T stat. Will keep you guys updated.
 
Got the HHP Tstat in hand. For those that have done the swap, do you need any other parts? New gaskets?
 
Got the HHP Tstat in hand. For those that have done the swap, do you need any other parts? New gaskets?
I think I remember it coming with a black rubber ring on the new stat, but if not, you should be able to peel yours of and put it on the new HHP one..or like HSKR R/T stated, get a new one..cheap insurance on not having to redo again.
 
Got the HHP Tstat in hand. For those that have done the swap, do you need any other parts? New gaskets?
Should be a rubber gasket in the box for the thermostat. If not you will need to get one. Don't reuse the factory one.
 
Im not so sure engineers are perfect..My C 5 Corvette was programed by engineers for primary fan to engage at 228 degrees and secondsry fan at 236 degrees..Anhbody here feel comfortable with your motor running daily at 236 degrees? And is tje engine more efficient at that temp? I quickly changed that .
 
Im not so sure engineers are perfect..My C 5 Corvette was programed by engineers for primary fan to engage at 228 degrees and secondsry fan at 236 degrees..Anhbody here feel comfortable with your motor running daily at 236 degrees? And is tje engine more efficient at that temp? I quickly changed that .
Yes, it is more efficient with hotter combustion chamber. Better fuel burn.
 
Anyone who argues that the “engineers know better” and thus it shouldn’t be changed probably also believe we had closed borders up until 2025.

Engineers haven’t had a full say in how an engine is designed in 40 years….maybe longer. Bean counters and lawyers have had them by the balls for decades.

No engine is better off with respect to life span at higher temps. It’s ONLY for EPA ratings so they don’t get fined by the govt (EPA). Also why your engine is covered in cheap plastics that get brittle and break after only 20-30k miles of heat cycling, instead of metal or rubber hoses.


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Anyone who argues that the “engineers know better” and thus it shouldn’t be changed probably also believe we had closed borders up until 2025.

Engineers haven’t had a full say in how an engine is designed in 40 years….maybe longer. Bean counters and lawyers have had them by the balls for decades.

No engine is better off with respect to life span at higher temps. It’s ONLY for EPA ratings so they don’t get fined by the govt (EPA). Also why your engine is covered in cheap plastics that get brittle and break after only 20-30k miles of heat cycling, instead of metal or rubber hoses.


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NASCAR engines run at 250+ degrees. I know drag racers that don't run any coolant and can hit over 250 degrees by the end of the pass. Sure, they aren't as worried with long lifespan, but how much does the heat really effect long term durability, as long as the oil is still doing its job
 
I took a closer look and there is a preinstalled black rubber gasket on the tstat.
All other things equal, heatsoak is real and higher temps will rob power. Lower temps you can throw more timing at it the engine without knock. I should have grabbed the diablesport trinity tuner before the new year, they had a sale $200 off! I do plan on acquiring this when im changing the tstat to take full advantage of the tstat and existing I/E mod.
 

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