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What did you do to your Ram today???

BowDown said:
Every BMW owner has told me the same thing, dont on one out of warranty. Nice cars but F all that expense. 100k mile 2016 3 series was probably 13-14K last year so they put some money in that pit



Mark Dodges pricing on Tungstens has got me looking too. I don't need a new truck but I want a tungsten and they're pricing is tempting. Dont call me Mark Dodge, I'm blocking you now 😂
Click to expand...
"Hi BD, Antoine from Mark-le CDJR, been trying to get ahold of you. We have not one, not two but three, three I tell ya' 2025 tungsten's sitting here, we will give you a killer deal on it including over book on your trade... 😮🤣
 
Willwork4truck said:
"Hi BD, Antoine from Mark-le CDJR, been trying to get ahold of you. We have not one, not two but three, three I tell ya' 2025 tungsten's sitting here, we will give you a killer deal on it including over book on your trade... 😮🤣
Click to expand...

Yeah, that would e too much temptation to fight. Not going to answer the phone or look at DM's for a few weeks. Luckily they sold the delmonico one they had on the way and only have ivory now
 
Willwork4truck said:
"Hi BD, Antoine from Mark-le CDJR, been trying to get ahold of you. We have not one, not two but three, three I tell ya' 2025 tungsten's sitting here, we will give you a killer deal on it including over book on your trade... 😮🤣
Click to expand...

That started in the old trucks voice then turned into Pepe Le Pew.
 
BowDown said:
I washed then clayed with a fine clay towel then did a 2 step polish (yes, again) and finally got a chance to ceramic coat it with System X Max G.
This ceramic coating should last 3-4 years. Claims 5-10 but IDK about that

View attachment 198024

View attachment 198025

Im going to take the wheels, clean, polish and ceramic coat them next week. Hopefully I won't have to do this again for a while

Washed my car the day before, coated it with Tacsystem Moonlight about 4 years ago, still beads water and very glossy. It lasts about 3-6 months on a DD that's kept outside, far better than any of the ceramic sprays and easy to use.

View attachment 198026
Click to expand...
Nice Z. The 01 speedway white is my dream car. I loved my C5, had it since 04 but after kids and not driving it I traded it in recently.PicsArt_05-20-10.18.47.jpg
 
CaliRebel said:
A friend of mine has one and he’s been bugging me to get one lol.
That thing is an absolute monster!
But it’s going to be my daily driver and i’m honestly not too confident in the reliability of an older BMW.
View attachment 198019
Click to expand...
let me put your concern to bed.
My M has been my daily for the past 2 years... I need that power, speed, and handling after work on Mondays and Tuesdays as rewards for working 16 hours days.

I have zero oil leak, zero oil burning, zero issues. The only issue is fuel bill but it is what it is. Life's too short to really worry about fuel bill.
Here's what I think I did right:
  • I personally feel E chassis M cars are built with better materials and craftsmanship than the non-M cars. I've seen the F/ G chassis and regular non-M cars of E chassis come in for service, and the interior and mechanical aspects are just trashed. M cars come in? Clean interior, much less mechanical issues.
  • I bought my car sight unseen off M3 forum from across the country. The car was listed for almost a year, because it's a 2009 4 door DCT in Space Gray and not the "dream spec" for purists and collectors. But it does come with all the history from the 1st owner down to the seller, ever oil change, receipts for every parts and mods, the whole shebang. Car came with truck full of stuff: OE takeoffs, extra pads, extra oil, extra rotors, everything. I also paid a locally respected independent shop that specializes in these cars for a detailed PPI with pictures before I finalize the deal. What i'm getting at is this: buy from an enthusiast that has plenty of love for the car but has to move on (ie: dad getting newborns). Do your homework beforehand.
  • S65 requires care. I personally never go over 2000 RPM before oil temp is normal, do oil change at every 5k, and do an oil analysis at every oil change. The two biggest pain points of these cars are throttle body Actuators and Rod Bearings, but using the correct oil and having correct habit will mitigate the RB issue. Throttle Actuators you can buy reinforced ones as spare. not that expensive and not hard to do.
Do all that and you should be just fine! The red lining V8 at 8400 RPM, with just the OE M Performance Exhaust, is an intoxicating experience.
It is truly one of those things that you can do to reward yourself for dealing with BS at work!

Can't say the same for RC F though lol. I drove customer's before ("you need to drive it hard")... it doesn't do it for me.
 
Willwork4truck said:
My neighbor bought a really clean 3 series with 105K, I think it was a 2016...this was last year.

There were a couple CEL/codes and an abs light on, but he disregarded them. The car was so clean, well optioned, new tires and only $10K.
One owner too.🤔

After about 250 miles the instrument panel lit up like a Christmas tree. He took it to the bmw shop and it cost him $4400 to get the lights out. Then within 3 months another series of CEL/codes appeared.
Dealer quoted another $5K.

He replaced the $350 battery to get it driving and gave it to his son saying "if you want to fix it it's yours". Gee thanks dad.

Son put $2K in it at the dealership then the car bricked on a highway trip so he abandoned it to a tow company. 😮🍋

Earlier BMW and "reliability" don't seem to be compatible... At least that wasn't his experience. In 6 months or so he lost $14K and had nothing to show for it. 😬

The black paint did look great and the interior was really nice. I told him he could have just sat in it and played with the steering wheel while making "vroom vroom" noises.
He wasn't amused. 😮
Click to expand...
yeap that's what i see a lot at the shop too.
Build quality with those F chassis non-M (your neighbor's car) is just incomparable with the M cars. The 2016 isn't earlier BMW my friend it's like last generation at most.

I have/ had 2 earlier BMWs in my life:
First 1991 BMW 318is (E30). aside from vacuum leak (intake boot broke due to age, simple fix in 2 minutes) and not working AC (R12... can't find them in PRCali), cracked dash (due to age), broken odo gear (due to plastic odo gears, simple fix) it has been reliable. Started right up every day and goes up to 100MPH no problem at all. Had that car for 4 years before selling it to my friend to fund my current "earlier" BMW
1742100748252.png
circa Summer 2017. Taken with Canon Rebel T5

Second and current "earlier" BMW:
2009 E90 M3. bought at 62k miles in 2021. As of today it has about 73k miles. Annual oil change done, regardless of mileage put on.
No christmas tree, no warning light aside from the EDC (Electronic Damper Control... like active suspension) warning due to removed EDC shocks for Ohlin full suspension package (keep on forgetting to add the bypass module). Not even a drop of oil outside of engine as well.
_MG_4749.jpg
 
on a more related/ on topic note, here's what i TRIED to do today.

Some of yall may know I was talking about going from 450lb springs to 600 lb springs on my Fox 2.5 in a few threads on the forum. Today was the day and because work was slow today I got to put it on the lift while on company time.
Uninstalled the passenger front and put it on the spring compressor and compressed the spring. Then that's it. couldn't do it. The problem is, with other Fox shocks and King shocks, the lower spring collar is a split open cup type where it can easily be removed to take the shock out after compressing the spring, but that's not the case with Ram's fork lower mount design. The lower coil collar is a enclosed cup, so there's no way to remove it to free the shock from the springs. It seems like the only way to remove the spring from the coilover is to completely disassemble the coilover and take out the resi hose fitting, or somehow unscrew the lower fork-shaped shock mount.

But while I had the truck up in the air, I redid my suspension maxx sway bar end links as they were being compressed incorrectly, and cleared out another 20lb of tried mud from my skid plate. It seems like there's more though.

Now I have a pair of 600lb springs for the front and a pair of coil spacers for the rear sitting... good thing is I didn't pay retail for any of those and the spacers can be returned while the springs can't. I will be emailing Fox on Monday to see if I missed something, and wait till I have to rebuild the shocks to swap the springs or just include them in the truck when I get an offer I can't refuse.

the Power Wagon is really tempting right now... especially factoring in ground clearance and ability to run 37s without much more work.
 
boogielander said:
let me put your concern to bed.
My M has been my daily for the past 2 years... I need that power, speed, and handling after work on Mondays and Tuesdays as rewards for working 16 hours days.

I have zero oil leak, zero oil burning, zero issues. The only issue is fuel bill but it is what it is. Life's too short to really worry about fuel bill.
Here's what I think I did right:
  • I personally feel E chassis M cars are built with better materials and craftsmanship than the non-M cars. I've seen the F/ G chassis and regular non-M cars of E chassis come in for service, and the interior and mechanical aspects are just trashed. M cars come in? Clean interior, much less mechanical issues.
  • I bought my car sight unseen off M3 forum from across the country. The car was listed for almost a year, because it's a 2009 4 door DCT in Space Gray and not the "dream spec" for purists and collectors. But it does come with all the history from the 1st owner down to the seller, ever oil change, receipts for every parts and mods, the whole shebang. Car came with truck full of stuff: OE takeoffs, extra pads, extra oil, extra rotors, everything. I also paid a locally respected independent shop that specializes in these cars for a detailed PPI with pictures before I finalize the deal. What i'm getting at is this: buy from an enthusiast that has plenty of love for the car but has to move on (ie: dad getting newborns). Do your homework beforehand.
  • S65 requires care. I personally never go over 2000 RPM before oil temp is normal, do oil change at every 5k, and do an oil analysis at every oil change. The two biggest pain points of these cars are throttle body Actuators and Rod Bearings, but using the correct oil and having correct habit will mitigate the RB issue. Throttle Actuators you can buy reinforced ones as spare. not that expensive and not hard to do.
Do all that and you should be just fine! The red lining V8 at 8400 RPM, with just the OE M Performance Exhaust, is an intoxicating experience.
It is truly one of those things that you can do to reward yourself for dealing with BS at work!

Can't say the same for RC F though lol. I drove customer's before ("you need to drive it hard")... it doesn't do it for me.
Click to expand...

That's sound advice for any engine, I do that in my truck and my car, no more than 2K rpm until the oil hits 130° and dont go above 3K until the oil at 150°
 
BowDown said:
Yeah, that would e too much temptation to fight. Not going to answer the phone or look at DM's for a few weeks. Luckily they sold the delmonico one they had on the way and only have ivory now
Click to expand...
Nothin' wrong with ivory, that was my 2019's color. Did they tell you that there was 35% off on ivory?
🤣
BowDown said:
I washed then clayed with a fine clay towel then did a 2 step polish (yes, again) and finally got a chance to ceramic coat it with System X Max G.
This ceramic coating should last 3-4 years. Claims 5-10 but IDK about that

View attachment 198024

View attachment 198025

Im going to take the wheels, clean, polish and ceramic coat them next week. Hopefully I won't have to do this again for a while

Washed my car the day before, coated it with Tacsystem Moonlight about 4 years ago, still beads water and very glossy. It lasts about 3-6 months on a DD that's kept outside, far better than any of the ceramic sprays and easy to use.

View attachment 198026
Click to expand...
Gorgeous truck (when clean).
 
Willwork4truck said:
Nothin' wrong with ivory, that was my 2019's color. Did they tell you that there was 35% off on ivory?
🤣

Gorgeous truck (when clean).
Click to expand...

I have 4 payments left and 2 more years of max care warranty after its paid off in July. I'm not burying anything for at least the remainder of my warranty.

It is tempting though, 72k for a tungsten and I could probably get 35-30k for my truck (according to carfax and carvana that keeps emailing me) which would leave around 42k.

2 years of no payments is more appealing though
 
Last edited:
BowDown said:
That's sound advice for any engine, I do that in my truck and my car, no more than 2K rpm until the oil hits 130° and dont go above 3K until the oil at 150°
Click to expand...
yeah it is. but on the S65 that is of extreme importance lol
going over 3k rpm with cold engine is one guarantee way to destroy the rod bearing on those S65s
 
Washed both v8s today. It finally stopped raining and I needed/ wanted to rinse the underside more (especially the T-case) to decake more mud, especially after I cleared out another 20lb of dried mud sitting on top of fuel tank and t-case skids. 20lb of Arctic Ocean and Alaska off the truck.
1742172041082.png
1742172074814.png

Snapped a picture to show what kind of frustration I was dealing with yesterday before I washed it.
1742172059057.png
 
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