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Pulsar on a 2020+

Anyone know where to get a fair price on one? All seem to want full retail. I can buy a lot of Belgian beer for 600 dollars...
Fair price? That's a good one. :ROFLMAO:

Find a used one, maybe. You won't find these "on sale" ever.
 
I found one for 500 shipped. Im waiting for a reply to ensure it will work on my 2022 Longhorn...that I dont have yet...but I will stuff it in my 2019 Laramie while I wait....
 
Keep your eyes out and you can find them being sold used for around $300.
 
Problem is, the manufacturer uses the same part number when the internal hardware is different. So, I need the 32453. There is a lot of them out there that wont work with a 2021 or a 2022. I found out by asking a nice seller for the complete serial tag. That has the HW and FW info. HE confirmed that his unit for sale wont work on a 21 and up. This was confirmed by Edge Products. So, if you buy used, get that tag off the hardware first. Be careful.

If someone has one for sale that is the latest, let me know. Ill buy it now. Ill use it on my 19 untill my 22 comes in...
 
I ponder this damn thing daily.. does it do much more than my Banks Pedal Monster? And is anyone experiencing any of the dreaded code issues I keep reading about? Thanks in advance
 
I ponder this damn thing daily.. does it do much more than my Banks Pedal Monster? And is anyone experiencing any of the dreaded code issues I keep reading about? Thanks in advance
It definitely does more than the pedal monster, but isn't as adjustable with throttle response. The Pulsar adjusts timing as well as throttle response. You actually get increases performance, not just a "feeling"
 
I ponder this damn thing daily.. does it do much more than my Banks Pedal Monster? And is anyone experiencing any of the dreaded code issues I keep reading about? Thanks in advance
I agree with HSKR R/T. I, personally, have had no code issues at all. I really like my Pulsar. Honestly, I drive around in Econ mode MDS Off most of the time. But, when I put it in Performance mode, there is DEFINATELY a difference. :ROFLMAO:

I did some 0-60 tests a while back and it knocked off an average of .85 seconds from stock to performance mode. I know that doesn't seem like much, but, it is faster. (y)

There is a post on the test back in this thread.
 
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I agree with HSKR R/T. I, personally, have had no code issues at all. I really like my Pulsar. Honestly, I drive around in ECO mode MDS Off most of the time. But, when I put it in Performance mode, there is DEFINATELY a difference. :ROFLMAO:

I did some 0-60 tests a while back and it knocked off an average of .85 seconds from stock to performance mode. I know that doesn't seem like much, but, it is faster. (y)

There is a post on the test back in this thread.
Weird. When I turn the MDS off, even economy mode, the ECO light never comes on???
 
Weird. When I turn the MDS off, even economy mode, the ECO light never comes on???
If I am not mistaken, the ECO light comes on when MDS is on and engages. If you have MDS off, the ECO light won't come on.
 
I have never written the re-calibration file for any car or truck. HOWEVER, I have done multiple on motorcycles. Most of the bikes I have done are drive by wire just like trucks/cars. I try to explain this to anyone who buys the pedal commander products. These products cannot fool the ECU into opening the throttle any more than what the ECU allows. PERIOD. There are multiple if not hundreds of throttle control tables in an ECU that are used in various modes. The ECU reverts to many many different tables when in normal driving, traction control, torque management stages, etc. NO matter what the throttle pedal "commands (% torque requested)", it ain't gonna do anything more than what the currently accessed table permits/allows. PERIOD. So when u use a pedal commander. It will ramp the 0 - 5v command voltage more aggressively effecting is "rate" of opening, but the throttle will position ONLY at where the currently accessed throttle table allows. It does not do anything more.

This is probably what the Pulsar does in regards to throttle. It cant possibly do anything more. Now that Im thinking about it, if it can do anything, it would have to have the ability to put the ECU into a mode were it can select a more aggressive ECU TABLE than the previous mode. If that is possible.

So, I changed my mind on a Pulsar. Even though I still believe its a decent product for the money. I am probably going with Livernios. IF Im going to spend 600 for a piggy back, I may just go 1000 for a replacement ECU, THAT WILL ACTUALLY OPEN the throttle plate way more aggressive and at a higher percentage, adjust fuel, add timing, REMOVE or REDUCE TORQUE MANAGEMENT and more. You get way more.

I think code P1400 or something is the code the dealers look for. (unauthorized non OEM vehicle calibration detected) Im told it is stored in the body computer and NOT the PCM itself. Livernios has assured me they don't trip that code. I go to the dealer, I just swap the PCM's out. This is exactly what I did in my 2019 Wrangler. So, Now I wait for my truck to be delivered. Get the PCM part number, and find a new replacement or a used one to clone.
 
I have never written the re-calibration file for any car or truck. HOWEVER, I have done multiple on motorcycles. Most of the bikes I have done are drive by wire just like trucks/cars. I try to explain this to anyone who buys the pedal commander products. These products cannot fool the ECU into opening the throttle any more than what the ECU allows. PERIOD. There are multiple if not hundreds of throttle control tables in an ECU that are used in various modes. The ECU reverts to many many different tables when in normal driving, traction control, torque management stages, etc. NO matter what the throttle pedal "commands (% torque requested)", it ain't gonna do anything more than what the currently accessed table permits/allows. PERIOD. So when u use a pedal commander. It will ramp the 0 - 5v command voltage more aggressively effecting is "rate" of opening, but the throttle will position ONLY at where the currently accessed throttle table allows. It does not do anything more.

This is probably what the Pulsar does in regards to throttle. It cant possibly do anything more. Now that Im thinking about it, if it can do anything, it would have to have the ability to put the ECU into a mode were it can select a more aggressive ECU TABLE than the previous mode. If that is possible.

So, I changed my mind on a Pulsar. Even though I still believe its a decent product for the money. I am probably going with Livernios. IF Im going to spend 600 for a piggy back, I may just go 1000 for a replacement ECU, THAT WILL ACTUALLY OPEN the throttle plate way more aggressive and at a higher percentage, adjust fuel, add timing, REMOVE or REDUCE TORQUE MANAGEMENT and more. You get way more.

I think code P1400 or something is the code the dealers look for. (unauthorized non OEM vehicle calibration detected) Im told it is stored in the body computer and NOT the PCM itself. Livernios has assured me they don't trip that code. I go to the dealer, I just swap the PCM's out. This is exactly what I did in my 2019 Wrangler. So, Now I wait for my truck to be delivered. Get the PCM part number, and find a new replacement or a used one to clone.
I would never pay $500+ for a new Pulsar. Got mine used for $250 shipped. Anything more than. $300-$350 is too much for what the Pulsar does. But what it does, is a good improvement over stock without the risk of swapping PCMs and using custom tunes. And despite what any third party tuner claims, the dealer can most definitely tell if you have swapped PCMs, whether it sets a code or not.
 
I removed the Pulsar off of my 19 Rebel when I traded for the 21 Limited and put it on the Limited (with ET) and it works just fine as far as I can tell. Mine was bought over 2 years ago so I'm guessing it has the old software on it. I might give Edge a call and ask about it. But like I said it seems to be working just fine, Makes a huge difference in how the truck runs.
 
I think I ran into a compatibility issue between the Pulsar and Tazer DT. When switching drive modes on the Pulsar, you have to use the set/resume (+/-) buttons on the right side of the wheel. Well, I was driving to the store about an hour ago and I noticed that in switching driving modes for the Pulsar, that in turn triggers the light shows from the TAZER DT (even with the cruise control OFF). That's not cool, especially when you're driving. Someone flashed their lights at me. That's how I found out it was doing that. I did further testing when I got home to confirm it. There's got to be a way to disable the light shows. I do not want them anyway.
I ended up pulling my tazer because every time I’d change power setting on the pulsar the light show would start and after I’d end it. The tazer would saying updating and get stuck there.
And some times it would turn on the fan or ask me if I want to enter dark mode. Really annoying.
On the other hand… I got a basically brand new tazer DT if anyone is interested for a good price. Least say almost half price. My email is [email protected] if anyone is interested.
 
I did plug it in to my computer, but I had an issue. I bought it used. The cable I got with it wasn't the OEM one. It would not recognize the Tazer when I connected it in to my laptop. I have the latest software, etc. I am assuming it's a bad cable, or not a data transfer cable. I bought one on Amazon. It should be here tomorrow.

Also, I though I saw where you could change the InMotion on and off from the steering wheel controls. I did mess with that, but I didn't test it out. I just put it in drive and the light show still came on. Technically, that's not in motion, I guess. I don't know. Hopefully, that new cable does the trick with the software.
You turn in motion light show on and off on the computer. Same place you go to update the tazer. Under the configure tab on the bottom.
 
Also, you should have had to hold down the left arrow and then the cruise cancel button to bring up the menu, and then the cruise up/down to scroll through menu to get to light show to turn on. , unless you enabled shortcuts for the lightshow. But it doesn't sound like that would be the case if you don't care about the lightshow.
Sounds like previous owner must have enabled lightshow in motion, and shortcuts for the lightshow as well
Mine did the same thing as his and even a little more. Every time I would change setting by pressing the set + or minus. And I did enable light L’s in motion. But I have not remapped any buttons and and I also didn’t hold the left arrow.

And same happens when I do try to adjust tazer settings. When holding the left arrow and if I touch set plus or minus pulsar chafes power and tazer flakes out and does something weird the. Gets stuck on updating screen. Then I have to toggle out of audio screen the. Back.
 
I ended up pulling my tazer because every time I’d change power setting on the pulsar the light show would start and after I’d end it. The tazer would saying updating and get stuck there.
And some times it would turn on the fan or ask me if I want to enter dark mode. Really annoying.
On the other hand… I got a basically brand new tazer DT if anyone is interested for a good price. Least say almost half price. My email is [email protected] if anyone is interested.
Need to turn off the hot key for your TazerDT. Either you unintentionally did it's or if it was a used ones previous owner set it up for one push activation for the light show. My current TazerDT I got used and previous owner did that. Had to unprogram the hot keys so my Pulsar would work. When it shows "updating" that's actually the Pulsar resetting. Mine would default to stock tune when that happened and had to power cycle to get it back. Pulsar and TazerDT stopped supporting each other. You have to have cruise control on to use TazerDT with the Pulsar installed.
 

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