Power source in Bed or tailgate area?

[Andymax]

Does anyone have details on a constant power source for the bed? I have a bed lighting idea and need un-switched 12V. None of the trailer wiring is unswitched...

Any help would be appreciated...

 

[jimothy]

I did something like this for my truck.

I used a 60 amp circuit breaker, 6 AWG wire from the battery to the bed closest to the cab. There, I put in a marine fuse block, and placed it in a waterproof box with holes for the wire to pass through.

From the fuse block to the bed near the tailgate, I ran smaller gauge wire to power a 12V socket and USB sockets.

If I add additional lighting, it’s an easy run off the fuse block. That’s why I used 6 gauge wire for the run from the battery to the bed; do that once, then add to it when needed.

Here are a couple of photos to give you an idea of what I did. I’ve got a Retrax cover, with the fuse block underneath the canister, but this’ll work with any setup. The case for the fuse block is held to the bed with neodymium magnets; this has been sufficient so far.

The LED light strips are not wired to the fuse block; they are tapped into the OEM bed lights so they turn on/off with the existing lights.

 

[NorthStar]

I used this to hook up my Leer topper on my last ram…it provides constant 12v power, is plug and play with no splicing, and simple to install and/or remove.

 

[Andymax]

EXCELLENT information and thanks for the pictures! I was figuring a wire run straight from the front fuse box as my last resort but hoped maybe there was a local 12V source. Your idea to add that marine fuse block is a GREAT idea and I'm stealing it...I hadn't considered future need for power there so I'm certainly doing something similar now.

I don't have the factory bed lights (surprising for a Laramie) and I wanted full bed lighting all around. I also want to have the ability to turn on the bedlights without the ignition on, so I'm using a momentary switch to turn on an automotive time delay relay. When I hit the switch the bedlights will turn on for 3 minutes and turn off to protect the battery (I know me and I'll leave them on). The truck can be on or off, locked or unlocked, etc etc. I've tested the system and it works as planned, now I just need to complete the installation.

 

[Andymax]

I used this to hook up my Leer topper on my last ram…it provides constant 12v power, is plug and play with no splicing, and simple to install and/or remove.

Interesting!! Certainly an easier installation but I'm confused...I checked all seven pins on the round plug and all four on the flat...none of which supplied 12V unless the ignition was 'on'. You are saying it does provide the 12V regardless of ignition?

 

[NorthStar]

Interesting!! Certainly an easier installation but I'm confused...I checked all seven pins on the round plug and all four on the flat...none of which supplied 12V unless the ignition was 'on'. You are saying it does provide the 12V regardless of ignition?

Yes, it is what provides the power to the light inside the topper…as well as for the 3rd brake light in the topper. The light is always available whereas the brake light only works when pressing the brakes. I installed it and was a breeze. If I ever decide to add bed lights, this is the kit I will use as it worked great for my topper - and the white interior LED of the topper never failed with this kit.

 

[badpewterz]

top red wire is 12v hot all the time
used it for my bed lights, left them on by accident and 2 days later dead as a door nail so definitely not switched lol

 

[AMS Guru]

I used this to hook up my Leer topper on my last ram…it provides constant 12v power, is plug and play with no splicing, and simple to install and/or remove.

Did you have any issues with the trailer brake system and/or blind spot monitoring giving issues with this harness? It says on the site "not for trucks with Advanced Towing Groups" I'd love to use this for an Opt7 rear light bar and don't want to have to cut/spice ANY wiring whatsoever if possible.

 

[LaxDfns15]

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007EA6WQU/?coliid=I38NMR85QFT3E9&colid=3UN1R72PWNK1G&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KXR799K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Those two are the easiest way to get bed lights and/or a constant 12V without splicing into your truck's wiring. If you need more amperage then you'd need to do something like what @jimothy did.

 

[NorthStar]

Did you have any issues with the trailer brake system and/or blind spot monitoring giving issues with this harness? It says on the site "not for trucks with Advanced Towing Groups" I'd love to use this for an Opt7 rear light bar and don't want to have to cut/spice ANY wiring whatsoever if possible.

I installed it on a Lone Star which had the trailer brake system but did not have the blind spot monitoring. I never had an issue with it at all.

 

[NorthStar]

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007EA6WQU/?coliid=I38NMR85QFT3E9&colid=3UN1R72PWNK1G&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KXR799K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Those two are the easiest way to get bed lights and/or a constant 12V without splicing into your truck's wiring. If you need more amperage then you'd need to do something like what @jimothy did.

That connector appears to be the same as the Leer connector but at a much better price. In fact, the only difference is the Leer harness comes with dialectic grease to squeeze into the connector before making the connection to ensure it remains water tight. I’d pick up a tube abs squeeze it into the Curt connector if it does not come with it.

 

[Andymax]

top red wire is 12v hot all the time
used it for my bed lights, left them on by accident and 2 days later dead as a door nail so definitely not switched lol

Interesting. wonder If I have a blown fuse...I could not get constant 12V off any of the pins. Thanks for this!

 

[mikeru82]

Interesting. wonder If I have a blown fuse...I could not get constant 12V off any of the pins. Thanks for this!

Maybe your ground lead wasn't making good connection to ground when you were measuring that.

 

[Richard320]

Interesting. wonder If I have a blown fuse...I could not get constant 12V off any of the pins. Thanks for this!

It's possible. And in case you were unaware, you have spares in the fuse block, around the edges. I also recall at least one person posted here that they found a plug not seated fully on the trailer harness. I can't recall if it was behind the plug itself or behind the tail light where it connects with the body harness.

 

[Andymax]

Maybe your ground lead wasn't making good connection to ground when you were measuring that.

Maybe a fluke but I got the voltage when I turned the key on. I will try again...could have easily lost contact on the + or -.

It's possible. And in case you were unaware, you have spares in the fuse block, around the edges. I also recall at least one person posted here that they found a plug not seated fully on the trailer harness. I can't recall if it was behind the plug itself or behind the tail light where it connects with the body harness.

Thanks for that tip...I will certainly try that.