5thGenRams Forums

Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!

Weight Distribution Hitch Poll

What weight distribution hitch do you use?


  • Total voters
    116

KD7ENM

New Member
Joined
Dec 11, 2020
Messages
3
Reaction score
2
Points
3
Age
41
Just wondering what weight distribution hitches everyone is using for towing travel trailers. What works, what doesn't? Any issues with sway or turning?
 
haven’t had any issues at all towing my 6k TT with a 10k equalizer. If you’ve got the air ride, be prepared to do some tinkering to get it dialed in. You can turn on transport mode to disable the auto-leveling from the setup menu.
 
I’m using the Equalizer 1400 hitch with our 28’, 8K TT. Big improvement over the Fastway e2 800 lb hitch we stayed with. Better sway control and right sized to shift the weight of a long trailer.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Equal-i-zer hitch with 4 point sway control and tows like a dream. I towed with a bar and chain hitch without sway control that the dealer-installed 2 times before getting the proper hitch. The difference between that chain hitch and Equal-i-zer hitch is night and day. I would sell the camper if I had to tow with the bar-and chain non-sway hitch. Terrible experience.
 
1625659267286.png

I went with the Reese 10k to handle whatever I throw at it. Works great for all my trailers.

 
Eaz-lift Recurve R6 with 800# bars. Good hitch, great weight dist , good anti-sway, excellent customer service. In my book, not as good as the Hensley or ProPride, but better than the Equalizer and the like. Only real downside is it’s not USA made.
 
Last edited:
I've got a Husky Centerline, worked great on my 1500. Still haven't gotten it dialed in on the 2500 yet but I'm not giving it up.
 
I have the FastWay e2 (1200-pound hitch with 600-pound bars). It's remarkable how much different the ride feels from one L-bracket position to the next one up/down; initial set-up is critical.
 
I have the FastWay e2 (1200-pound hitch with 600-pound bars). It's remarkable how much different the ride feels from one L-bracket position to the next one up/down; initial set-up is critical.
How would u describe the difference u feel?
 
Recurve R3 , works good, zero noise, easy hookup and can adjust the amount of sway control needed or not needed
 
I plan on buying a Weigh Safe True Tow Weight Distribution Hitch when I get my TT RV.
 
How would u describe the difference u feel?
Short answer: with the L-brackets one notch lower on both sides than usual, the effect of the WDH was barely better than not using the WDH at all.

Long answer: I had to lower my L-brackets because I lost the bar used to snap the trunnion bars onto the L-brackets. I could get the driver side bar on the L-bracket myself, but I couldn't get the passenger side trunnion bar even close to the L-bracket. We were leaving on a weekend trip, so I had to get the trailer hooked up; as a result I opted to lower the L-brackets just so I could lift the trunnion bar onto the L-brackets (both sides). I figured that being attached would be better than nothing. Turns out, that's true, but barely. I felt the trailer tugging and swaying as we went over road undulation. The feeling was more like towing without the WDH than it was towing with the WDH.

With a new trunnion bar snap tool in hand, I won't have to deal with the lower position on the brackets again.

Until I lose the tool again, that is.
 
I use the Husky Centerline TS. I like that it doesn't have chains, and it helps with sway control as well as weight distribution. And I also like that the bars slide directly into the trunnion blocks instead of making a 90 degree bend and hanging into the trunnion from the top like other brands do. The Husky style has to be stronger, it just has to. The pricing is also very good.
 
Short answer: with the L-brackets one notch lower on both sides than usual, the effect of the WDH was barely better than not using the WDH at all.

Long answer: I had to lower my L-brackets because I lost the bar used to snap the trunnion bars onto the L-brackets. I could get the driver side bar on the L-bracket myself, but I couldn't get the passenger side trunnion bar even close to the L-bracket. We were leaving on a weekend trip, so I had to get the trailer hooked up; as a result I opted to lower the L-brackets just so I could lift the trunnion bar onto the L-brackets (both sides). I figured that being attached would be better than nothing. Turns out, that's true, but barely. I felt the trailer tugging and swaying as we went over road undulation. The feeling was more like towing without the WDH than it was towing with the WDH.

With a new trunnion bar snap tool in hand, I won't have to deal with the lower position on the brackets again.

Until I lose the tool again, that is.
was you jack maxed out? the higher you can jack the truck and trailer the easier it is to put the bars on
 
was you jack maxed out? the higher you can jack the truck and trailer the easier it is to put the bars on
No, it wasn't, but I did try to raise the jack after the trailer was connected to the truck, and I tried to lower it. Neither worked at the time.

I was in a rush, so I opted to lower the L-brackets.
 
I am using the 10K Equal-i-zer hitch with 4 point sway control and with 4 corners air suspension my truck tows 6K#/25ft TT like nothing. I definitely recommend the WDH option when comes to TT towing.
 
I started with an Andersen for the light weight and ease of use. I think it did fine for weight distribution but was disappointed with its sway control. I switched to a ProPride 3P and the difference is night & day. No sway at all. You can still feel wind and suck/push — no hitch can change physics — but the truck and trailer get pushed as a single unit instead of the trailer trying to twist the truck at the hitch. Everything is much more controlled and comfortable. Most of the time I drive with one hand on the wheel. I haven't pulled more than six hours in a day yet, but that was stress-free enough that I easily could have.

Hitching up is a bit different but it's fast and easy once you get the hang of it, in part because the weight distribution bars stay attached to the hitch head. No issues with turning (the hitch allows up to 87° angles). You don't need to loosen anything to back up or when driving in rain. You can open your tailgate while hitched up, which is very convenient. The only drawback I've encountered is that you lose a bit of ground clearance. That hasn't been an issue for me when towing but can make it a bit harder to get the camper level in sloped campsites because you can't drop the tongue quite as low and might need to put levelers under the wheels instead.

[Our camper is a GD Imagine 2670MK — 32' long, 8500 lb GVWR]
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top