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Oil!!!!

HoosierTrooper

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What I was trying to point out is that Redline sells TWO completely different products, the High Performance line and the Professional Series. They are DIFFERENT oils. The High Performance is not API licensed, have higher levels of ZDDP and do not meet any of the manufacturers certifications. The Professional Series is a standard API/ILSAC certified oil that is rebadged Kendall GT-1. I was trying to make the members aware that there are TWO different oils sold by Redline and the High Performance line is the one to consider for quieting the hemi. If you want to purchase the Professional Series for over $9 a quart it's your money, but Kendall GT-1 is THE SAME OIL at a much cheaper price. Since they have the same Dexos license number that means the same product was submitted for testing to receive the Dexos certification.

I was trying to pass on some helpful information to the members that Redline sells two different lines of oil that serve two different purposes.
 

securityguy

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What I was trying to point out is that Redline sells TWO completely different products, the High Performance line and the Professional Series. They are DIFFERENT oils. The High Performance is not API licensed, have higher levels of ZDDP and do not meet any of the manufacturers certifications. The Professional Series is a standard API/ILSAC certified oil that is rebadged Kendall GT-1. I was trying to make the members aware that there are TWO different oils sold by Redline and the High Performance line is the one to consider for quieting the hemi. If you want to purchase the Professional Series for over $9 a quart it's your money, but Kendall GT-1 is THE SAME OIL at a much cheaper price. Since they have the same Dexos license number that means the same product was submitted for testing to receive the Dexos certification.

I was trying to pass on some helpful information to the members that Redline sells two different lines of oil that serve two different purposes.
It's like beating your head against a wall @HoosierTrooper. If anyone wants to spend that much money for oil when PP and other high quality oils do the SAME thing at $22 for 5 quarts at Walmart...then let them buy it. Was never a Red Line fan and WAAAAY over rated IMPO.
 

HoosierTrooper

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It matters none to me what people spend their money on, I just wanted to point out the two Redline oils are different. The High Performance oils sell for $12.49 a quart and the Professional Series is $9.45 a quart, that alone should tell you there’s a big difference in their makeup. If the High Performance oil quiets you’re engine and you can live with the price that’s all that matters, but I’d try the Kendall first at almost half the price before buying the Professional Series.

Edited to add that ConocoPhillips also makes Phillips 66 Deposit Shield oils.
 
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HoosierTrooper

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To illustrate my point here is a virgin oil analysis of Redline Professional Series 5W-20 from 2019. Molybdenum is shown at 69 ppm and the zinc is well below the API maximum of 800 ppm. Notice Blackstones comment that the moly level is higher than some but lower than others like Pennzoil Ultra, and that the additive levels usually don't affect wear that much.


full-76018-38152-r_pro.jpg

Here is a VOA of Rotella Gas Truck 5w-20 for comparison, it was done by a different lab so it's formatted differently. Higher moly than the Redline but lower boron. Calcium and magnesium are detergents and are basically the same for both oils but as Blackstone noted the levels usually don't affect wear that much. After all these are in parts per million so the additives make up a small amount of the whole package. Both of these are API SN+ oils that are pretty typical.
$9.45 per quart for the Redline Professional Series or $21 for a five quart jug of the RTG at Walmart.

OIP.jpg
 
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HoosierTrooper

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Got busy doing something else but managed to find some time and found a virgin sample of Redline High Performance 0W-20 from 2018, this is the $12.49 a quart oil. Notice the molybdenum level for this oil is 577, 8 times higher than the Professional Series I posted earlier and the zinc and phosphorous is considerably higher than the SN+ rated Professional that can't have levels this high and receive the SN+ certification. Calcium is double what is seen in SN+ oils because it has been linked to LSPI and nearly all of the majors have lowered calcium and increased magnesium. Both of these samples are 20 grades but the 5W-30 should be very similar since most of the companies purchase the additive packs form other companies and blend it into the base oil and it's simpler to use the same package.

This illustrates what I was saying about the two different oils that Redline sells so if you want to go the high moly route to try to quiet the engine this is the one you want. I put the Professional Series VOA under this one so it would be easier to compare them.

rl.jpg
full-76018-38152-r_pro.jpg
 
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HoosierTrooper

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And I thought the constant oil threads on the Viper forums were bad, you guys win!
I think they're popular on car enthusiasts forums because most folks understand the importance of choosing the right oil and oil change interval to help improve their odds of the engine lasting a long time. It's also one of the few routine maintenance jobs that most DIY'ers can still do so some are constantly looking for the "best" oil available so they try to learn a little about it to help them find that grail oil and filter combo.
 

HoosierTrooper

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And one more, here's a RL 5W-30 also from 2018. Different lab but very, very similar results to the 0W-20 which shows the additive package is usually very similar across the grades..

redline_5w_30.png
 

Rollint

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Read all 5 pages and still never got a clear answer or even a decent one... SMH with all the comments about cold pour points and cold starts. THE QUESTION IS ABOUT HEAT. Personally in my Nissan GTR the recommended is 0w40 but if using for racing or high performance driving or in extreme temps.. recommends to use 10w40. I am looking for real knowledge on this subject and if our trucks would run better in the summer and be more ''protected'' if we ran possibly 5w30 in the summer and 5w20 in the winter months. Or possibly even more extremes like 10w40 in summer is say Palm Springs and 0w20 in winter in Canada. All that being said.. I found it interesting on the chart linked earlier how 0w40 seemed to be best all around at any operating temp. There is obviously more at play. But none of us wingnuts have even cracked a hint of what really makes up manufacturers recommendations.
It really doesnt make a difference. The first number is the weight the oil flows at cold temps and the latter is the weight at 210f. So, your engine oil will basically never heat up past that point unless you're doing something extreme. Your ambient local temp doesnt come into play for the second number because your cooling system keeps the oil at the proper temp. If you were pulling a fifth wheel across the mountains in Colorado every day I would suggest the heavier weight but for normal driving just do what the engineers suggest.
 

silver billet

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What I was trying to point out is that Redline sells TWO completely different products, the High Performance line and the Professional Series. They are DIFFERENT oils. The High Performance is not API licensed, have higher levels of ZDDP and do not meet any of the manufacturers certifications. The Professional Series is a standard API/ILSAC certified oil that is rebadged Kendall GT-1. I was trying to make the members aware that there are TWO different oils sold by Redline and the High Performance line is the one to consider for quieting the hemi. If you want to purchase the Professional Series for over $9 a quart it's your money, but Kendall GT-1 is THE SAME OIL at a much cheaper price. Since they have the same Dexos license number that means the same product was submitted for testing to receive the Dexos certification.

I was trying to pass on some helpful information to the members that Redline sells two different lines of oil that serve two different purposes.

You sure find the oddest things to argue about. Don't care about whatever you wrote in last few posts; my point was, "not all oil is the same", and "anecdotally it has been proven that redline 5w-30 has highest chance of killing hemi tick". Other premium brands like Pennzoil with no moly do absolutely nothing. Therefore, premium oils with moly are better (for our hemi) than oils without.

And yes we all run the "high performance" which which has the high amounts of moly (can't be bothered to track down exact ppm).
 

securityguy

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I don't think he's arguing with you at all, but making a point that I think is very valid for some that are interested in your comments. I have used PP for my last two oil changes and ZERO "tick".
 

silver billet

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I don't think he's arguing with you at all, but making a point that I think is very valid for some that are interested in your comments. I have used PP for my last two oil changes and ZERO "tick".

That's fine; not everybody has or develops the tick. Those of us who have it, have had the most luck with Redline 5w-30. So it's completely obvious to anyone who has been working through this issue that no, "PP and other high quality oils DO NOT DO the SAME thing at $22 for 5 quarts at Walmart"

Do a quick google search, there is a 31 page thread on a different forum where literally the first post says "pp makes my hemi sound horrible" and "redline 5w-30 was the cure" for my hemi tick.

Please stop posting bad information, guys reading this trying to fix their tick aren't going to be helped by reading your posts.
 

securityguy

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That's fine; not everybody has or develops the tick. Those of us who have it, have had the most luck with Redline 5w-30. So it's completely obvious to anyone who has been working through this issue that no, "PP and other high quality oils DO NOT DO the SAME thing at $22 for 5 quarts at Walmart"

Do a quick google search, there is a 31 page thread on a different forum where literally the first post says "pp makes my hemi sound horrible" and "redline 5w-30 was the cure" for my hemi tick.

Please stop posting bad information, guys reading this trying to fix their tick aren't going to be helped by reading your posts.
I don't believe I have posted anything that contains "bad information". Are you talking to me directly?
 

HoosierTrooper

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I thought the purpose of message boards was for members to share their knowledge and try to help each other, but maybe I was wrong in this case. I was merely explaining the difference between the two lines of oil that Redline sells and I provided documentation in the form of virgin oil analysis of each that clearly shows the difference. I am confident that in all of the years people have been recommending Redline oil to solve the problem someone has ordered the less expensive Professional Series under the belief that because it has the Redline name on it they would be getting an oil with the high moly treat rate and thought I may help someone from making the same mistake.
 

silver billet

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I don't believe I have posted anything that contains "bad information". Are you talking to me directly?

Yes, you too:
It's like beating your head against a wall @HoosierTrooper. If anyone wants to spend that much money for oil when PP and other high quality oils do the SAME thing at $22 for 5 quarts at Walmart...then let them buy it. Was never a Red Line fan and WAAAAY over rated IMPO.

I'm just going to leave this thread, you guys do what you want.
 

securityguy

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Not trying to be a ****, but from a PROTECTION standpoint they will do the SAME THING. From a "tick" perspective, maybe not as you stated. Maybe it is a good idea for you to gracefully bow out (y)
 

silver billet

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Not trying to be a ****, but from a PROTECTION standpoint they will do the SAME THING. From a "tick" perspective, maybe not as you stated. Maybe it is a good idea for you to gracefully bow out (y)

No. The reason I'm bowing out is because of, uh, "logic" that allows you to post what you just did. Completely clueless and I just don't see the point in trying to argue any further. Bye now.
 

securityguy

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No. The reason I'm bowing out is because of, uh, "logic" that allows you to post what you just did. Completely clueless and I just don't see the point in trying to argue any further. Bye now.
Bye Bye and don't let the keyboard hit you in the @$$
 

Nickjansen

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Why would redline HP not meet API & other requirements if it does indeed have more and better additives.. wouldnt that make sense?
 

PowerJrod

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Lol, this got outta hand. Think I'll stick with my Mobile 1 next oil change and leave it at that. All of this talk about oil that's $12 per a quart is crazy. That's the type you put in a Viper or Ford GT or something that's not a normal Ram lol. Is the Redline/Moly oil type different? Sure. Different enough to matter in a truck engine? (Let's be honest here).... Probably not...
 

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