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Engine Oil Filters

GregHBNA said:
Most recent one was 3 oil changes for $70. unfortunately, they get you for the extra 2 quarts needed to fill the HEMI.

The plan code was ECP23N.
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My dealer never added anything on the 1st change then added $1.50 for just 1 qt on the 2nd...
 
I use NAPA Gold filters (WIX). They're excellent filters. And change my oil at 10k miles or 1 year.
 
The Mopar is actually a good filter, with the exception of the anti drain back valve. I prefer mine to be silicone
 
The FRAM Ultra is rated at 99% efficiency for particles 20 microns or larger which is about as good as it gets, but a whole lot of smaller particles are going to get through the filter and continue to circulate in the oil which makes it and all other oil filters basically just rock catchers. The Ultra has synthetic media that allows better flow than cellulose, it has wire backing to support the media and synthetic media holds more debris than cellulose. It also has the much better silicone ADBV which is much better than nitrile.

The Ultra is probably the best oil filter available for the money, but the most important filter on an engine is the air filter.
 
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HoosierTrooper said:
The FRAM Ultra is rated at 99% efficiency for particles 20 microns or larger which is about as good as it gets, but a whole lot of smaller particles are going to get through the filter and continue to circulate in the oil which makes it and all other oil filters basically just rock catchers. The Ultra has synthetic media that allows better flow than cellulose, it has wire backing to support the media and synthetic media holds more debris than cellulose. It also has the much better silicone ADBV which is much better than nitrile.

The Ultra is probably the best oil filter available for the money, but the most important filter on an engine is the air filter.
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I like the Fram Ultra or the Wix XP
 
I went with a filter relocation kit and the Mobil 1 209A filter. After changing my oil once with the ridiculous set up that Mopar has, I decided to move my oil filter. Did the same thing on my Dad's truck. Best decision you will make. I would look into it before you climb under there.
 
M1 for 2011 5.7 (srt size) filter. With pup oil. It’s tight fit but works. Maybe over kill as I usually change oil every 5k or before. Makes me feel warm and fuzzy inside. In long term/haul atleast I can say it wasn’t out of neglect or trying to save a few dollars each time. I’m good with that.
 
Ronkartz72 said:
I went with a filter relocation kit and the Mobil 1 209A filter. After changing my oil once with the ridiculous set up that Mopar has, I decided to move my oil filter. Did the same thing on my Dad's truck. Best decision you will make. I would look into it before you climb under there.
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Which kit did you use to relocate the filter?
 
Napa gold in all my vehicles. Never had any issues.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Ronkartz72 said:
I went with a filter relocation kit and the Mobil 1 209A filter. After changing my oil once with the ridiculous set up that Mopar has, I decided to move my oil filter. Did the same thing on my Dad's truck. Best decision you will make. I would look into it before you climb under there.
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+1 on the filter relocation.
RemoteFilters.jpg

Steve
 
Ronkartz72 said:
What is the bracket thing going across there with the holes in it?
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Just after I bought the Ram, I crawled under the beast and noticed there was no splash pan. That meant rain water, dust and other bad things could get from the road or the front tires and be flung up into the engine compartment. No bueno. So I made a splash pan from 18 gauge steel. The perforated crossbar you see there is what the rear of the homemade splash pan bolts up to. My Ram has air suspension, so the active air dam supports are unused, but have the attachment bolts still there. I used the lower bolt to hold the crossbar. Between the perforated crossbar and the front crossmember, I used a piece of old bedmat I had lying around to fill the gap. The final phase of the splash pan, now that the remote oil filters are in place, is a small removable section for access to the oil filters, so I don't have to take down the entire thing to change the filters.
Here is the thing all bolted up.
Splash Shield.jpg

And this is what the front of the splash pan is bolted to.
FrontBumper.jpg

Steve
 
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stevj said:
Just after I bought the Ram, I crawled under the beast and noticed there was no splash pan. That meant rain water, dust and other bad things could get from the road or the front tires and be flung up into the engine compartment. No bueno. So I made a splash pan from 18 gauge steel. The perforated crossbar you see there is what the rear of the homemade splash pan bolts up to. My Ram has air suspension, so the active air dam supports are unused, but have the attachment bolts still there. I used the lower bolt to hold the crossbar. Between the perforated crossbar and the front crossmember, I used a piece of old bedmat I had lying around to fill the gap. The final phase of the splash pan, now that the remote oil filters are in place, is a small removable section for access to the oil filter...
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Nice & clean looking tho I would be wary of my engine temps. By design, there's a ton of airflow redirected by the air dam(s) to flow under the front, underside of vehicle, and up into the engine comp. Looks like ur pan will prevent this
 
stevj said:
Yeah. I was a bit wary about possible airflow restriction, but engine coolant temp and oil temp readings stayed normal on long freeway runs and in stop and go traffic.

Steve
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Hmmm...you got me reconsidering my decision to remove my lower air dam. I might put it back on for winter. There's more junk on the road that can be tossed around and get up into places it shouldn't be.

It's strange that some 5th gens with air suspension didn't get the active air dam and some did. My girlfriend's 2020 Limited (with air suspension) had the active air dam, while you said that your 2019 Limited didn't have it. I've seen other conflicting reports of the same. I'm just curious as to why Ram did this.
 
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