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Window switches

ZombieSlayer

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Howdy folks :)

I haven't dug too deep into this mini project and thought I'd ask here before spending money. I haven't found a reason that this wouldn't work so here goes. Has anyone replaced the windows switches on the drivers door panel for the rear windows with the auto switches used in the front windows?

I've done one test swapping the switches and it worked, so I'm hoping all I have to do is buy the switches. I can't see anything preventing this idea from working but .... well you know how that goes :D
 
Howdy folks :)

I haven't dug too deep into this mini project and thought I'd ask here before spending money. I haven't found a reason that this wouldn't work so here goes. Has anyone replaced the windows switches on the drivers door panel for the rear windows with the auto switches used in the front windows?

I've done one test swapping the switches and it worked, so I'm hoping all I have to do is buy the switches. I can't see anything preventing this idea from working but .... well you know how that goes :D
Interesting question! I'm watching this... Unfortunately, I do not have the answer. With the child proof stuff I am curious if there is software preventing this "upgrade".
 
Have you found individual switches? The drivers door window switch cluster is typically a complete unit, not individual pieces. Unless if you're planning to break the switch cluster apart to allow single switch replacement.
 
Have you found individual switches? The drivers door window switch cluster is typically a complete unit, not individual pieces. Unless if you're planning to break the switch cluster apart to allow single switch replacement.

No, haven't seen them individually. Been wondering if I could get the passenger side switch and McGyver a couple of those in. I'll be messing around a bit more with this on Friday :)
 
Ya brought back memories from my BMW days and the window switches. If you decide to go the "McGyver" way; check out the plastic looking plunger thingy in case it is similar to what I experienced. The gray rubber part acted like a plunger with 2 positions for auto and manual modes. Manual holding it was one position and then 2 click it engaged the plunger to stay in contact till window reached all the way up/or down and then disengaged. This is if ya going inside the window part itself to see difference. Wow that was almost 10 years ago!!!

It could be as simple as the 2 phase gray part---go to junk yard get it for couple of dollars insert it/save have fun along way "McGyvering it" /or buy new.


(oldies--check out that Sprint Slider phone!!!---I thought I was cool back then!!! lmao)

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The master switch on the drivers door is a complete unit, but you can probably do it with a little time and a soldering iron. Subscribing so I can copy you when you get it done :)
 
The master switch on the drivers door is a complete unit, but you can probably do it with a little time and a soldering iron. Subscribing so I can copy you when you get it done :)
What about the front passenger one as it only has the one window switch?
 
What about the front passenger one as it only has the one window switch?
You would need 2 of them to do it right. OR I'm sure you could get a hold of an unused driver master switch pretty cheap from one of the people who added power-folding mirrors. Then you have 2 switches you could try to transplant into your switch. I'm not sure what it looks like inside the switch or how hard it would be to transplant them. I have my old switch laying around, I might try to pop it open and take a look.
 
I have yet had the time to get back to this. Friday the truck was at the dealer all day and they still only got the airbag recall done and not the other stuff it went in for. Turns out my sliding rear window defroster broke off so they have to order an entire window to fix it?

They of course couldn't replicate the clunk, but they did hear the new rattle in the front passenger door...but didn't have time to pop off the panel.
 
Ok, I took my old switch apart today to see if the 1-touch buttons could be relocated to another switch and it's not possible. The circuit board below the switch mechanism has 4 contacts for each of the 1-touch buttons (2-up and 2-down). So the first press of the 1-touch button hits the first contact and the hard press hits the second contact. The non-1-touch buttons there are only 2 contacts each. So we would have to find a switch from a 4-door car with 1-touch on all buttons that also fits the Ram. Now I can say that I saw programming in the Alphaobd software that designates if the 1-touch is for front windows, all windows, or none. So programming might be possible if we could find a compatible switch.
 
Ok, I took my old switch apart today to see if the 1-touch buttons could be relocated to another switch and it's not possible. The circuit board below the switch mechanism has 4 contacts for each of the 1-touch buttons (2-up and 2-down). So the first press of the 1-touch button hits the first contact and the hard press hits the second contact. The non-1-touch buttons there are only 2 contacts each. So we would have to find a switch from a 4-door car with 1-touch on all buttons that also fits the Ram. Now I can say that I saw programming in the Alphaobd software that designates if the 1-touch is for front windows, all windows, or none. So programming might be possible if we could find a compatible switch.
Where's the pics??????:)
 

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