UC4 12 Amp draw & Reboot

[Tallus]

Recently, I had to jump my 2019 Ram 1500 after not being driven for five weeks. Everything worked fine for several days. I left it at the airport and when I returned the screen would reboot every 3 minutes or so.

Also, my battery went dead several times after. I got my amp meter and measured 3amp being pulled while the truck was “asleep”. After several trouble shooting methods, I narrowed it down to the radio. I pulled the fuse and remeasured the draw and it dropped to less than .5 amps.

I original converted from a 8.4 to 12” for a quick background. Today I unplugged each connector on the screen console. No change. I started to disconnect each connector on the “brain “ it only change after I disconnect the main plug. Long rectangular one. I disassembled the 68329882AJ and began to test the boards. I’ve narrowed it down to part M3J4102474 as the culprit.

My question is what other part numbers are compatible as a replacement for this board. I can’t determine what on the board is bad, thermo camera is coming tomorrow. Also, I did unplug the hard drive as well to test if it was the problem before determining the board is the issue.

Also, GPS is not working. It thinks my position is 45 miles away.

 

[Tallus]

Does anyone have one of the following modules that don’t work that wouldn’t mind disassembling it to grab the model of the bottom board?

68329882AG, 68329882AH, 68329882AI, 68329882AJ, 68329882AL, 68329882AM, 68329882AN, 68329882AP, 68329882ZA, 68329882ZC, 68329882ZD, 68329882ZE, 68329882ZF

 

[Tallus]

The main board ended smoked! 3amp draw no explanation as to why. While truck was “asleep”

 

[Tallus]

So I swapped the M3J4102474 with board M3J4112034. Radio display comes on and no reboots. Yeah! I haven’t had time to allow the BCM to upload all the features yet. Touchscreen works, but still missing features and a few Apps. How do you make it go into demo mode to grab the version of software? I’m thinking I need to replace the software on the hard drive.

Amp draw is still high at 1.5 amps, but getting closer. So far $100 bucks for the board. If I need the top board, they are also going for about $100.

 

[Tallus]

BCM loaded into radio. Backup camera is not working, getting blue screen when activated.
Amp draw seems to be improved.
GPS is taking its sweet *** time to locate. I could not up date the software as it said it was not compatible.

Everything appears to be working correctly.

Working on next steps

 

[Tallus]

Long Story short…. Literally it appears the rest of the amp draw is related to a battery cell that is bad/shorted. Waiting to replace it. I’ve been traveling for work. Hopefully next week. Then more updates.

 

[Tallus]

Replaced battery today. Amp draw is back to normal.

Still have rear camera and GPS issues not working on replacement board.

Plan to induce voltage on board M3J4102474 and see what is causing the short on it. Several capacitors are shorting to ground. It’s the original board. Then might try a CB board repair with a donor board and might swap hd to bring back. Red marks on capacitors are shorted.

 

[Georgf]

If you need i have 68317978AF module for parts. Bought it on eBay, but it‘s not working condition. It seems it was under repair, maybe has missed parts. Could sold it for $100 shipped, but shipping will be very long, because i’m in Russia )

 

[Tallus]

Only GPS is not working

 

[Tallus]

GPS is now working after replacing the air card


Total repair cost for the radio $158 to correct rebooting and GPS not working

part of the repair was to replace shorted battery $229

i did buy an amp meter too!

Only downside the board I used to correct the reboot was from a charger and it will not let me overwrite the software with latest uconnect for 12” screen. Otherwise, everything works the same as when I completed the 8.4” to 12” conversion.

 

[detractus]

GPS is now working after replacing the air card


...

Is the "air card" synonymous with part # M3J4102474?

I ask, because the 2020 I just acquired has an amp draw issue, which the dealer narrowed down to a card that needs to be replaced, and my GPS is also 150 miles off.

So I'm hoping that the repair to fix the amp draw will also fix the GPS for me.

Thanks.

 

[Tallus]

Is the "air card" synonymous with part # M3J4102474?

I ask, because the 2020 I just acquired has an amp draw issue, which the dealer narrowed down to a card that needs to be replaced, and my GPS is also 150 miles off.

So I'm hoping that the repair to fix the amp draw will also fix the GPS for me.

Thanks.

There are three cards in your radio module. The air card being one of them. I suggest they replace the module. Two of the three cards are likely bad. The air card is not synonymous with the card M3J4102474. How big of an amp draw are you seeing?

 

[detractus]

There are three cards in your radio module. The air card being one of them. I suggest they replace the module. Two of the three cards are likely bad. The air card is not synonymous with the card M3J4102474. How big of an amp draw are you seeing?

It's fixed now. They replaced the whole unit with an 68329882AR, which looks like the most recent iteration. GPS is back, and current draw is at zero.

 

[Infotainment]

It's fixed now. They replaced the whole unit with an 68329882AR, which looks like the most recent iteration. GPS is back, and current draw is at zero.

That would be a refurbished or reconditioned unit I'm guessing. As the part number is from a 2019.
Could be old-new stock. We repair these units all the time for dealerships and everyday people.

 

[detractus]

That would be a refurbished or reconditioned unit I'm guessing. As the part number is from a 2019.
Could be old-new stock. We repair these units all the time for dealerships and everyday people.

What causes them to fail so easily? I saw earlier in this thread it was shorted capacitors. Is it the heat? Is it somehow related to the chip shortage in 2020? I've never experienced failure-prone electronics before. Ever.

I should also correct. My ammeter read "zero", but then while the clamp was on, it popped up to 1.4A. I'm guessing it was either due to the proximity of the keyfob, or that the radio is still new and might have been doing some sort of an update. Leaving the truck off the battery tender for a couple of days to see how it goes.

 

[Infotainment]

What causes them to fail so easily? I saw earlier in this thread it was shorted capacitors. Is it the heat? Is it somehow related to the chip shortage in 2020? I've never experienced failure-prone electronics before. Ever.

I should also correct. My ammeter read "zero", but then while the clamp was on, it popped up to 1.4A. I'm guessing it was either due to the proximity of the keyfob, or that the radio is still new and might have been doing some sort of an update. Leaving the truck off the battery tender for a couple of days to see how it goes.

Its a known issue with their Sierra Cards. They fail much more often in Uconnect 3 radios, Uconnect 4 like the UAX you have still happens but its much less often. Why they fail? bad manufacturing, bad components or cheap components on the board is my guess.
The chip shortage didn't cause this issue, it was there before and after. I can only guess but I'd image the parts are cheaper and fail more often. These radios shouldn't fail over heat, they can take alot of heat before anything happens. They are only passively cooled by the casing fins and the vehicle's AC.
When you reconnect the vehicle to power, you may have to wait for the radio to acclimate back to the vehicle.

 

[detractus]

Its a known issue with their Sierra Cards. They fail much more often in Uconnect 3 radios, Uconnect 4 like the UAX you have still happens but its much less often. Why they fail? bad manufacturing, bad components or cheap components on the board is my guess.
The chip shortage didn't cause this issue, it was there before and after. I can only guess but I'd image the parts are cheaper and fail more often. These radios shouldn't fail over heat, they can take alot of heat before anything happens. They are only passively cooled by the casing fins and the vehicle's AC.
When you reconnect the vehicle to power, you may have to wait for the radio to acclimate back to the vehicle.

Is there an alternative to this unit that I can get installed that is more reliable?

 

[detractus]

...how frequently do these things fail? Is this the kind of thing where I'm going to be replacing the radio every year or so? Because that is what it feels like.

 

[Infotainment]

...how frequently do these things fail? Is this the kind of thing where I'm going to be replacing the radio every year or so? Because that is what it feels like.

We see them all the time but rarely do we see repeat issues like this. Our company vehicles never had this type of issue but again we do the repairs so we see if all the time as people are using the service. I don't think its gonna be a yearly repair that will be needed. It was like that with Uconnect 3s like the RA3/RA4 but the Uconnect 4s are much better built.

 

[detractus]

We see them all the time but rarely do we see repeat issues like this. Our company vehicles never had this type of issue but again we do the repairs so we see if all the time as people are using the service. I don't think its gonna be a yearly repair that will be needed. It was like that with Uconnect 3s like the RA3/RA4 but the Uconnect 4s are much better built.

Well, that's encouraging.