WXman
Ram Guru
The Scangauge II is pretty cool. I've been monitoring temperatures at the MAF sensor (air intake temp), turbo, DPF, and SCR. I've also been watching turbo boost and DPF soot levels. It's been interesting.
First thing I noticed is that turbo temps rise and fall quickly. Under load, it's not uncommon to see turbo temps exceed 1,000 degrees F. But, once the load is removed and I'm just cruising or decelerating, the temps quickly fall to around 500F. I suppose that with air flowing through it constantly, as well as the new water and oil cooling system, it's pretty efficient at staying cool. By the time I pull into the garage the temps have fallen into the 400s and I go ahead and shut down the engine.
Second thing I've noticed is that driving, even on the highway, is not enough to generate adequate DPF heat to burn off the soot load. Even at 55 MPH with the cruise set the soot load stays even or rises slowly. It appears that soot load only begins to fall if the DPF temperature is 650 degrees or higher. And, that only happens when driving at high speed on the interstate or while towing. So, just driving the truck normally still will not slow down the regen cycles. I haven't seen a regen cycle occur yet because my driving style has keep my soot load between 60 and 70% for quite a long while now. I think at 80% it goes into regen.
Turbo boost pressures seem to be limited to 22.7 PSI. That's the highest the truck will go, regardless of load or driving style, and it gets capped right there. This can happen at times under 50% throttle if driving uphill, or at 100% throttle on the highway. But it'll never exceed 22.7 PSI. Occasionally while slowing down a hill it'll go negative. I suppose that's indicative of engine braking through the transmission calibration.
Lastly, air intake temps seem to be exactly the same with or without the snorkel duct work that is installed from the factory. That ductwork connects the airbox to the grille area, I assume to pull fresh air into the air box. But, it's also slightly restrictive. With that duct work removed, I'm seeing exactly the same intake air temps while driving, and I can look into the air box and see the filter so it's got to be flowing better. Maybe not any gains, who knows? But it can't hurt. And it sounds better.
There is so much you can do with this Scangauge. It's going to be a neat little tool.
First thing I noticed is that turbo temps rise and fall quickly. Under load, it's not uncommon to see turbo temps exceed 1,000 degrees F. But, once the load is removed and I'm just cruising or decelerating, the temps quickly fall to around 500F. I suppose that with air flowing through it constantly, as well as the new water and oil cooling system, it's pretty efficient at staying cool. By the time I pull into the garage the temps have fallen into the 400s and I go ahead and shut down the engine.
Second thing I've noticed is that driving, even on the highway, is not enough to generate adequate DPF heat to burn off the soot load. Even at 55 MPH with the cruise set the soot load stays even or rises slowly. It appears that soot load only begins to fall if the DPF temperature is 650 degrees or higher. And, that only happens when driving at high speed on the interstate or while towing. So, just driving the truck normally still will not slow down the regen cycles. I haven't seen a regen cycle occur yet because my driving style has keep my soot load between 60 and 70% for quite a long while now. I think at 80% it goes into regen.
Turbo boost pressures seem to be limited to 22.7 PSI. That's the highest the truck will go, regardless of load or driving style, and it gets capped right there. This can happen at times under 50% throttle if driving uphill, or at 100% throttle on the highway. But it'll never exceed 22.7 PSI. Occasionally while slowing down a hill it'll go negative. I suppose that's indicative of engine braking through the transmission calibration.
Lastly, air intake temps seem to be exactly the same with or without the snorkel duct work that is installed from the factory. That ductwork connects the airbox to the grille area, I assume to pull fresh air into the air box. But, it's also slightly restrictive. With that duct work removed, I'm seeing exactly the same intake air temps while driving, and I can look into the air box and see the filter so it's got to be flowing better. Maybe not any gains, who knows? But it can't hurt. And it sounds better.
There is so much you can do with this Scangauge. It's going to be a neat little tool.
