TracRac SR Sliding Rack fitment

[HLE64]

I have a BAK Revolver X2 cover which I love. I'm looking for capability to haul my kayaks, while still being able to use the X2. Basically, I need a rack that mounts into the stake post holes. Only thing I can find is the TracRac SR and a couple of different ADARAC models. The TracRac SR is available for the 4th Gen truck but they haven't designed for the 5th Gen yet, and everywhere I have visited says fitment not guaranteed. Was wondering if anyone has experience with this rack. I find it strange that the 4th Gen model will fit that 6'4" bed, but not the 5th gen 6'4" bed. I haven't been able to measure a 4th gen to see what the difference may be. Thinking I could modify or redrill the TracRac track rails if the issue is stake post placement difference. I'd prefer the TracRac over the ADARAC due to better appearance, and an expandable system for differing needs. Please let me know your thoughts.

 

[B-Rebel]

I too am looking for a utility rack to mount my 13 foot kayak. That much sticking out of the bed is not practical or safe ( trust me I’ve tried it ). im Looking for something I can mount temporarily for kayak hauling, then remove. I have a Bakflip X4 and would need something that will mount solely into the stake pockets. Interested to see if anything new comes out in the coming months.

 

[bigrodent]

I too am looking for a utility rack to mount my 13 foot kayak. That much sticking out of the bed is not practical or safe ( trust me I’ve tried it ). im Looking for something I can mount temporarily for kayak hauling, then remove. I have a Bakflip X4 and would need something that will mount solely into the stake pockets. Interested to see if anything new comes out in the coming months.

The first poster has a 6'4" bed which is not listed in the supported product list, but you seem to the have the short bed. I just installed the TracRac version for the 5'7" bed on my 2019 Ram Laramie and I have the Revolver X4 with it. Works great. The X4 rolls up with the rails on the outside or inside but toward the cab it is a bit tight in the inside config. I am currently using the outside rails near the cab and the inside rails at the back and that has a ton of clearance and is well supported by the bed. I ordered the base rails on Amazon and this specific product number supports the Tundra and Rams 2013-Current.

Remember to carve out the portion of the rear stake hole pocket liner that rolls into the bed. It is not just a drop-in and tighten type of install. You have to install it so the rubber clamp can expand and squeeze to the actual bed rather than the plastic rail liner. On the Ram the plastic rail cover goes into the stake hole, not just a cover. The front pocket hole is just a simple cover like other trucks so you need to cut out the rectangle. Both cuts can be done with the Dremel and takes a few minutes for each hole. Also note that I didn't use the angled shims at all, the rails are flat. I did use the stick on black shims to outline the holes and bring that area up to even with grooved section of the rail cover which is a 1/16 higher. It came out very flat and I was able to get the rails perfectly parallel. I was really happy with the finished product.


Hope this helps, I am happy to answer any questions.

 

[B-Rebel]

The first poster has a 6'4" bed which is not listed in the supported product list, but you seem to the have the short bed. I just installed the TracRac version for the 5'7" bed on my 2019 Ram Laramie and I have the Revolver X4 with it. Works great. The X4 rolls up with the rails on the outside or inside but toward the cab it is a bit tight in the inside config. I am currently using the outside rails near the cab and the inside rails at the back and that has a ton of clearance and is well supported by the bed. I ordered the base rails on Amazon and this specific product number supports the Tundra and Rams 2013-Current.

Remember to carve out the portion of the rear stake hole pocket liner that rolls into the bed. It is not just a drop-in and tighten type of install. You have to install it so the rubber clamp can expand and squeeze to the actual bed rather than the plastic rail liner. On the Ram the plastic rail cover goes into the stake hole, not just a cover. The front pocket hole is just a simple cover like other trucks so you need to cut out the rectangle. Both cuts can be done with the Dremel and takes a few minutes for each hole. Also note that I didn't use the angled shims at all, the rails are flat. I did use the stick on black shims to outline the holes and bring that area up to even with grooved section of the rail cover which is a 1/16 higher. It came out very flat and I was able to get the rails perfectly parallel. I was really happy with the finished product.


Hope this helps, I am happy to answer any questions.

Thanks Bigrodent. This is incredibly helpful. I appreciate you taking the time to reply. I’m going to look into getting this installed

 

[B-Rebel]

Can you post a couple pictures of your set up? Thanks

 

[bigrodent]

Can you post a couple pictures of your set up? Thanks

Sure, let me know if you need more specifics.

 

[B-Rebel]

How much did you have to cut out of the rear stake pockets? Did you have to widen them at all?

 

[Ram1984]

I have my trac rac from my 2014 2500,, just haven’t installed it yet due to weather,,etc. I was wondering about those rear stake pockets too. How much plastic did you have to remove?

 

[B-Rebel]

I just cut out all but a 1/2 of an inch of the vertical plastic. The rails are converging towards the cab. I’m wondering if I have to cut out more in order to get the rails parallel.

The front stake pockets were a piece of cake. I used a utility blade to cut out the pockets and then used a sanding bit to clean it up on the Dremel.

Also I put 1 layer of stick on flat shims and they are contacting the tonnea. Might need a second layer.

 

[bigrodent]

How much did you have to cut out of the rear stake pockets? Did you have to widen them at all?

The rear stake pocket I did not widen I just cut the depth out using a disc tool on the Dremel. So you are cutting at a 90 degree angle and having the routing base is helpful but not necessary. I cut out the entire depth of the rear pocket liner up to where it curves into the pocket. So I kept about 1/4" roughly. I actually cut them twice to guess where I needed to be. I would just put my finger in there to see if the nut would grab metal instead of the plastic liner. As for the width, the rubber expandable and nut fit through that pocket perfectly.

Hope this helps.

 

[bigrodent]

I have my trac rac from my 2014 2500,, just haven’t installed it yet due to weather,,etc. I was wondering about those rear stake pockets too. How much plastic did you have to remove?

I didn't measure it but I don't think you have to be precise. I removed enough until I knew the nut would squeeze the metal from underneath rather than the plastic. If I had to guess I remove less than 2" and kept about 1/4" at the top?

 

[bigrodent]

I just cut out all but a 1/2 of an inch of the vertical plastic. The rails are converging towards the cab. I’m wondering if I have to cut out more in order to get the rails parallel.

The front stake pockets were a piece of cake. I used a utility blade to cut out the pockets and then used a sanding bit to clean it up on the Dremel.

Also I put 1 layer of stick on flat shims and they are contacting the tonnea. Might need a second layer.

Once you cut out enough of the rear pocket liner to feel the metal you realize that the rails will slide more than enough at the front and back to get them parallel. So my approach was this...

- Get the back stake locked down first and make sure the rail sits flat but as close as possible to the tonneau cover rail w/o touching it. 1/32" or less. ( I have revolver X4)
- Adjust the front portion of the baserail outward as far as I can. I remember wiggling the washer/nut a bit to get it under the metal so it would push outward more.
- Tighten gently
- Repeat the other side again getting the rear baserail as close to the tonneau cover as you can
- Measure and tweak the fronts of both rails until parallel.
- Lock down

I cut out the exact pattern on the front pockethole. I didn't have an issue here so it wasn't something I had to address. The front pocket stake I drilled was more than big enough for me to move them outward to match the rear baserail width.

SHIMS: I found that one layer of stick-on shims placed in the flat areas (not the raised grooved section) was perfect for me. I cannot see any daylight between the rail and rail cap. It is on really solid and no rocking. But to repeat from my earlier post, the rails for me do not require the angled shims and I tossed them aside, once you tighten it all down it was really quite nicely flat with a 6' foot level across the two rails.

 

[B-Rebel]

With the front rails pulled outward as far as they will go and the rear of the rails pushed inward as far as they would go, I was able to get the rails within a 1/2 inch difference. Not exactly parallel, but hopefully close enough. I will have to wait until I pick up the ladder racks themselves to see if this is sufficient. Hopefully, there is some play to allow the racks to slide freely.

I’ve attached some pictures below of the stake pockets for those looking to do this in the future.

 

[bigrodent]

With the front rails pulled outward as far as they will go and the rear of the rails pushed inward as far as they would go, I was able to get the rails within a 1/2 inch difference. Not exactly parallel, but hopefully close enough. I will have to wait until I pick up the ladder racks themselves to see if this is sufficient. Hopefully, there is some play to allow the racks to slide freely.

I’ve attached some pictures below of the stake pockets for those looking to do this in the future.

When I go out to my truck tonight I will try to get some measurements that have hard truck points of reference. I do remember wiggling and turning the washer/nuts to pull it over. I wonder if yours turned sideways and are not allowing you to pull it over all the way. I'll show you some close-ups with my tape on the picture. I think we can get you to better than 1/2".

 

[Ram1984]

Thanks for the info guys

 

[bigrodent]

With the front rails pulled outward as far as they will go and the rear of the rails pushed inward as far as they would go, I was able to get the rails within a 1/2 inch difference. Not exactly parallel, but hopefully close enough. I will have to wait until I pick up the ladder racks themselves to see if this is sufficient. Hopefully, there is some play to allow the racks to slide freely.

I’ve attached some pictures below of the stake pockets for those looking to do this in the future.

Here are the close-ups of both sides of the rear rail. I *think* that mine are possibly 1/4" closer on each side which could make up that 1/2". Take a look and see. My total width is 70.5" if that helps.

 

[B-Rebel]

Finally had another chance to play with the base rails again and I was able to get them parallel.

My problem was the stick on shims that I placed onto the base rail. They were snuggled up too close to the expansion block and wasn’t allowing the block to slide in the direction I needed it to. After moving the stick on shim, my problems were alleviated.

Many thanks to Bigrodent for their help in getting these rails to where they needed to be.

The racks themselves should be here Monday. I’ll post some pictures when it gets installed

 

[bigrodent]

Here is a set of pictures with the cargo carrier converted to fit in the t-slot and the Yakima load bars riding on the TracRac SR Rails using the toolbox kit (heavily modified).

 

[B-Rebel]

That’s quite the setup! Might look into doing something similar in the future. I finally got around to installing the ladder racks today and am very pleased with the results. I also installed the Thule Dockglide (not pictured) onto my tracrac. I’ve attached some pictures below. I’m going to load the kayak onto the racks tomorrow and will post those pictures as well

 

[HLE64]

Thanks for the great info and pictures! I'm assuming you purchased the tracs that are actually for the 4thGen or 2019 classic? Can you tell me if the position on the post hole clamps on the tracs are adjustable for and aft?