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Towed First Time Today

IndyRAM25

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I used my Laramie 2020 crew cab 4x4 1500 with the 5.7L e-torque that has 3.21 gear to tow my 4000lb 24ft trailer empty and it seemed to struggle. I have the Reese weight distribution hitch and a sway control bar on there. I had 2 chain links hanging and I was all over the road once I hit around 70-75 mph. Truck squatted pretty good when putting trailer on.

Other complaint is when I was on the interstate running 60-65 it seem to shift into 7th gear, never really got to 8th to maintain speed. When I got up around 70-75mph it basically stayed in 5th gear and was just sucking down the fuel to maintain speed. Any suggestions? Old truck is a GMC Denali with the 6.2L and it pulled the trailer like a dream. I figure this truck would have been just as good.

Would I benefit going to the 3.0L diesel version of the 1500 or do I need to step up to the 2500 version? My truck is my daily driver. Then on weekends I will pull the trailer 4-6 hour trips each way to go racing. I really love the truck and all the features and creature comforts inside so hate to switch brands.
 
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CalvinC

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Since I don’t know you and can’t discern whether you are a beginner or a veteran tow captain, the basics first.

If at 60+ mph if you felt the sway like the trailer was oscillating back and forth then You need more tongue weight; at least 10%, preferably more. (Race car nose first only - unless it’s a Porsche or Lamborghini!).

After that see if you can’t crank down another link on the WD hitch.

If it was windy of course that could be an issue (I’m assuming it is an enclosed trailer since you said race car).

After clearing the above as obvious causes, it gets more complicated.

But at the described weight you should have zero issues. Axle ratio or engine option will have nothing to do with stability.

As for the power issues, I’d worry about that after you solve for stability.

You running in 7th is likely no different than a 3.92 running in 8th. You want the Revs 2k rpm+ while towing. Of course a diesel changes everything but I wouldn’t worry about that just yet.
 

IndyRAM25

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Middle of the Road on towing, far from a rookie on experience. But, just wanted to reach out on here. The trailer hauls go karts so not much added weight to pull away from the tongue weight that the enclosed trailer has. I could prolly crank down more. I just noticed on take off I was spinning tire a little but it was raining out and I just put new michelin tires on the truck.

The other engine combos I guess I should have went more into detail relating to MPG vs sway control. Will I get better mpg going to the 3.0L diesel 1500 vs the 5.7L gas or do I need to jump into a 2500 with the bigger diesel so I am not burning 5-7 MPG while towing down the road to maintain 75MPH since our limits are 70MPH around this area. I know I could slow down and but I like to get from A to B quicker than most. Just don't want to run the **** out of my truck in 5th gear when pulling the trailer if I could benefit better jumping into something else then I would make the change.
 

llando88

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Not a tow expert by any means; I've done around 50K miles towing around the US/Canada extended travel with my previous rig, a 2016 Ram 2500 Cummins + 30' (8,600#) travel trailer. I don't have any experience with the Reese; I had a ProPride Pivot Point Projection hitch on the 2500, and also have a little time with an Equal-i-zer.

Looking at the FCA 2021 Ram 1500 Trailer Towing chart, a 4x4 CC 5'7" box V8 Hemi BSG 3.21 rear has 7,100 GVWR, a payload of 1,800, 8,100 for max trailer and a GCWR of 13,900, so it looks like you are within spec. Do you have anything "extra" in the truck or truck bed of significance, weight wise, or it is just the trailer and pax?

You mentioned the truck squatted pretty good when putting on the trailer. This indicates a fair amount of weight went onto the hitch (this counts as payload, as I'm sure you know.) The Ram owners manual has a process to measure the before and after, to help figure out how to restore some of that weight from the trailer back on to the front. Example of what's in my owners manual is below, yours should be similar as the process is pretty much the same all over. You can ignore the part about air suspension, my truck doesn't have it, but the important thing is to setup the truck/hitch without it on; the process was the same for my Ram 2500. Have you done this procedure and if so, what were the numbers?

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Bt10

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I used my Laramie 2020 crew cab 4x4 1500 with the 5.7L e-torque that has 3.21 gear to tow my 4000lb 24ft trailer empty and it seemed to struggle. I have the Reese weight distribution hitch and a sway control bar on there. I had 2 chain links hanging and I was all over the road once I hit around 70-75 mph. Truck squatted pretty good when putting trailer on.

Other complaint is when I was on the interstate running 60-65 it seem to shift into 7th gear, never really got to 8th to maintain speed. When I got up around 70-75mph it basically stayed in 5th gear and was just sucking down the fuel to maintain speed. Any suggestions? Old truck is a GMC Denali with the 6.2L and it pulled the trailer like a dream. I figure this truck would have been just as good.

Would I benefit going to the 3.0L diesel version of the 1500 or do I need to step up to the 2500 version? My truck is my daily driver. Then on weekends I will pull the trailer 4-6 hour trips each way to go racing. I really love the truck and all the features and creature comforts inside so hate to switch brands.
Just for reference, there are a few other threads on this sub forum on the subject, and everything you describe is normal, especially from us coming out of a leafspring truck, unfortunately. I probably wouldn't have chose the 3.21 gear, but technically should be fine. A perfectly set up hitch is essential to begin to lessen the sway; follow your hitch guide to the letter, especially ball height and angle/amount of chain "pull up". I've found the friction sway control does very little. Make sure you have full tire pressure as well. It will never be as good as a leafspring truck, but it should be "safe".
 

Rototerrier

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I had the same problem towing 6500lb trailer and found many things helped.

1) Hellwig sway bar on the stiffest setting
2) Cooper XLT AT3 tires aired to between 60-80lbs depending on your tolerance and feel.
3) I had originally tried a Recurve R3 1000lb hitch and it was woefully inadequate. I went to a 1200lb Equalizer hitch. I decided having the 4pt friction sway control would be better and it was.

My tongue weight comes in between 800 and 900lbs depending on load.

Not saying the equalizer is the only hitch, but for me it solved most of my issues. I went from being all over the road at 55 mph to being able to comfortably tow at 65 with no wind and 60 in wind. With no wind, pulls nice and straight and smooth. With wind, not so good but manageable. Need a bigger truck.

I also messed around with different hitch heights. I tried a little nose up and got sway. I then tried dead level and still had a little sway tendency. Then moved to a smidge nose down and everything finally stabilized. And when I say sway, I mean a smidge of rocking. Nothing ever out of control. The hitches do their job but they were definitely fighting it and causing me that uncomfortable feeling.

It was a lot of work and trial and error but I was able too finally get mine under control and it's much heavier and a bit longer than yours.

And on another note, I tried 70 and 75 just as a test to see how stable I was. Had no issues, but I would never maintain that. Seems very unsafe to me.
 
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BNJMN

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I'm no pro either; but towed a 30 foot camper with a 5.4 ford and now tow a 23 foot snowmobile trailer and 16' camper with a 5.0 ford with 3.55 gears. Like everything, tons of opinions on this. I test drove a 2500 Cummins and decided against it - it's big and felt stiff. I just didn't think there were enough situations I would like it ( open highway towing) vs. the number of times I wouldn't ( work parking ramp, might not fit in the barn, long road trip with wife).

So; I ordered what I thought was the best towing combo for what I need - Yes, you can get more stated towing capacity with HEMI- but the Ecodiesel 6'4 and 3.92 has these advantages - MPG while towing; the longer bed will help not get as windblown, 3.92 will get moving much better. Ram stated towing capacity will be about 1500-2000 more than my current truck. 7500 vs. 9000+

Beyond the WD hitch set up I think your 3.21 is a challenge. I also wonder about tires - I've always ran LT tires for the stiffer sidewall and don't have issues towing. If I only have 1 snowmobile in the trailer I have to be sure it is centered; doesn't tow as well at the back or front but otherwise I hold the road really well.
 

BigD

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You definitely need a 2500. That's a big trailer your pulling. I can't believe u drive 75 mph pulling a 24 ft trailer !! I never go over 65 mph pulling my little 6x12 enclosed single axle trailer. If it's windy I stay under 55 mph !! Rather be safe than locked up in prison for killing someone on the road trying to get somewhere 5 minutes sooner !
 

CalvinC

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So I’d say your issues could likely stem more from the fact that your enclosed trailer is a giant parachute, rather than the weight itself.

I was initially thinking Miata or drag car but a go kart + accessories on a 4K trailer should not be anywhere near a concern on weight.

It might be blowing around back there, possible that a little more weight may calm things down a bit .

One thing I forgot to cover in the basics is tire pressure. Stock tires on half tons are p metric /passenger car tires. Very squishy & wallowy when towing if you don’t bump them up near their 51 psi max.

Might have a slight improvement to mpg too. Maybe.

Overall trading up to either diesel strictly for mpg always boils down to payback. Your Hemi has a lot of horses in the barn, but they’re up in the penthouse. Fortunately it likes to rev, which counterintuitively will help with cooling (no lugging, more coolant flow!).
 

RRSBighorn

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I've had the same trailer with the same EAZ lift weight distribution hitch and 2 friction type anti-sway bars for 20 years spanning 3 different vehicles around the country with somewhere between 50 and 70k miles traveled. My trailer is a 27' 7k GCVW and typically I tow with it loaded at about 6-6.2K. I think there are many good points from others here. I've had issues setting up all 3 vehicles for stability, a 2002 1500 Chevy Express Van, a 2011 1500 Chevy Silverado, and my current 2019 1500 Ram. Getting the tongue weight right and the correct truck squat takes alot messing around to get hitch set-up correctly. I do use the wheel well measurement method, but I also use a truck scale to verify setup to make sure I'm not over-loading an axle or GCWR.
I had similar concerns with the swaying when I got my Ram, it seemed a little squirrely much above 60mph. I think part of my issue was worn leaf spring bushings on my trailer, they are plastic and last less than 5k miles. I was told that wasn't the issue by someone that I would consider an expert, but I'm still think it may have been some part of the problem. I added the Hellwig solid rear sway bar, since I used that on my last 2 vehicles, not sure how much that helped. I think one of the bigger problems I have is the 275/55 R20 SUV tires, they only have a max pressure of 44 psi. I first started at the posted pressure on the door sticker, obviously that was too low. Tires should be a LT tire at minimum for towing, with higher ply equivalent side wall to stiffen things up. Problem for me is I want an all-season tire, not all-terrain tire since I don't 4-wheel offroad or want the added tire noise.
I just took my trailer to Yellowstone from Chicago area (~3k mi round trip) with the OEM tires pressured up to 44 pounds. Also before I left replaced all of the worn out leaf spring bushings, and replaced the trailer tires with a higher rated sidewall ply to jack the max pressure up to 65 psi, from the original 50 psi tires. This seemed to be ok when there weren't any cross winds. I cruised at about 70mph alot of the way hitting 80 when passing for short spurts, but when I hit windy conditions, dropped back to 60 mph sometimes when the trailer started getting a little squirely. I will be due for new tires next spring, and I will find some stiffer wall tires, but don't want 8 ply equivalent for ride smoothness when not pulling trailer.

As far as towing 6 or 7k trailers with a 3.21 gear, I don't have any problems with that. I only trailer 2 -4 weeks a year, and I want the better ride and mileage for when I'm not trailering. The 5.7l engine has way more HP than either of my other tow vehicles I had. The biggest difference is the transmissions, I went from a 4 spd in the Express with a 4.1 rear gear, to a 6 spd in the Silverado with a 3.42 gear, to an 8 spd in the Ram with the 3.21. Yes, the engine revs more with a trailer and may not get into 7th or 8th depending on grade. I had some steep grades that on rare occasion stepped down 4th or 5th depending on the speed you're trying to maintain, but these engines can handle that, it's not an issue of power.

I logged my gas mileage on my Yellowstone trip, checking the truck computer reading with actual pumped gas vs miles, they matched fairly close for 3 or 4 tank full's, so I just started using truck readings. The lowest I got was about 7.5 mpg in the mountains. At first I was using mid grade gas that had ethanol because that's all you can get in most of the midwest. When I started using gas with no ethanol and started using premium, my gas mileage was much better. Driving home from Yellowstone, using non ethanol premium, the lowest mileage was about 9.5 mpg. Part of this was I think it was more down hill than when going there and maybe less windy days.

My opinion on towing and what truck/gearing to use is mostly about how the truck is used over the year.
My Ram for what I need works perfectly. If I had a truck for a business and towed frequently, I probably would opt for a 2500 with a bigger engine and rear gear. Anything in between is going to vary based personal experience, budget, and comfort zone. Personally, I think pulling a 24', 4k trailer on weekends shouldn't be an issue for Ram 5.7 with a 3.21 gear, just have to get past the gear selection, higher rpm's and lower gas mileage when towing.
 

trouserpants

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You definitely need a 2500. That's a big trailer your pulling. I can't believe u drive 75 mph pulling a 24 ft trailer !! I never go over 65 mph pulling my little 6x12 enclosed single axle trailer. If it's windy I stay under 55 mph !! Rather be safe than locked up in prison for killing someone on the road trying to get somewhere 5 minutes sooner !
All I will say is, many people on here have pulled that size or significantly larger with Ram 1500. As long as you don't exceed the weight ratings, what is the issue?
 

BigD

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All I will say is, many people on here have pulled that size or significantly larger with Ram 1500. As long as you don't exceed the weight ratings, what is the issue?
1/2 tons don't have the weight in the rear end like a 3/4 ton does. That's why u get the sway. 3/4 ton will pull that 24 ft trailer nice & straight.
 

silver billet

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8th gear is 2nd overdrive. You're not going to be towing anything significant and hitting 8th, it's a fuel saving gear which is basically driving just off idle everywhere in the 3.21.

Drop it into 6th (which is direct), let the engine work. I pull at 2300 rpms with my 3.21. Keep your speed down to save fuel.

Are you using tow haul? If not, definitely use it. If you are, note that it will sometimes hold the current gear when you stop accelerating, sometimes for up to a minute or more.

I can't speak too much for the chevy 6.2 as I've never towed with it, but it has significantly more torque than our hemi's do. No doubt it will feel stronger, it's the most powerful N/A gas engine available in a half ton so keep that in mind.

You may prefer the diesel for towing, but the hemi is significantly quicker when not towing. I'd be happy with the diesel as my driving style is not all that sporty. The 1500 diesel will not fix your suspension issues though.

The coil springs in our rams are touchy and finicky. They ride awesome (there is no better riding truck out there, except for the Ram with air suspension), but the downside is you need to worry more about getting your hitch and balance exactly right when you're towing. There is less forgiveness in the coil setup.

As for the 2500; the ram 2500 is just like the ram 1500 in terms of luxury and most features, only bigger/stronger/costlier. It rides a bit rougher, but still much better than the Ford/GM 3/4 tons. The 6.4 hemi will feel stronger too, you might be a good candidate for the cummins though. 4 to 6 hours one way is a lot of driving, you'll save money on fuel in pretty short order.
 
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CalvinC

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1/2 tons don't have the weight in the rear end like a 3/4 ton does. That's why u get the sway. 3/4 ton will pull that 24 ft trailer nice & straight.

I thought your prior reply was sarcasm, but I understand now!

I don’t think anyone would argue that an HD *wouldn’t* tow any given load better than a half ton.

But why stop there? A medium duty Sterling would be even better. Or a Mack semi…

It’s not unreasonable to expect a half ton to pull within its rating when properly set up, nor is unreasonable for a recreational tower to not want to drive an ox cart the 90% of time we’re not towing.
 

RRSBighorn

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1/2 tons don't have the weight in the rear end like a 3/4 ton does. That's why u get the sway. 3/4 ton will pull that 24 ft trailer nice & straight.
I believe there is some truth to your statement, there could be a 700-1500 lb curb wt difference depending on the models you're comparing. But to suggest that a 1500 Ram with a 5/7l engine that could have a trailer towing rating over 10000 lbs couldn't comfortably pull a 4000 lb trailer is a bit of a stretch. Many trailer dealers don't even know how to set-up hitch's correctly, so I'd guess there's alot more individuals don't realize their trucks may not be setup correctly.
For work trucks or someone towing frequently heavy trailers, I get the suggestion for buying a 2500. For a lot of people like me that are using their truck to tow rv trailers a few times a year on vacation, and maybe a utility or uhaul once in a while, there's no need to have the extra beefy, more expensive, harsher riding and more of a gas guzzler for the rest of the year.
 

massram21

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I used my Laramie 2020 crew cab 4x4 1500 with the 5.7L e-torque that has 3.21 gear to tow my 4000lb 24ft trailer empty and it seemed to struggle. I have the Reese weight distribution hitch and a sway control bar on there. I had 2 chain links hanging and I was all over the road once I hit around 70-75 mph. Truck squatted pretty good when putting trailer on.

Other complaint is when I was on the interstate running 60-65 it seem to shift into 7th gear, never really got to 8th to maintain speed. When I got up around 70-75mph it basically stayed in 5th gear and was just sucking down the fuel to maintain speed. Any suggestions? Old truck is a GMC Denali with the 6.2L and it pulled the trailer like a dream. I figure this truck would have been just as good.

Would I benefit going to the 3.0L diesel version of the 1500 or do I need to step up to the 2500 version? My truck is my daily driver. Then on weekends I will pull the trailer 4-6 hour trips each way to go racing. I really love the truck and all the features and creature comforts inside so hate to switch brands.
had the same problem , upgraded tires and solved issue , tows great now 2021 big horn quad with 392 axle 4x4 5.7 e torque towing 7500 lb loaded 27 ft trailer, I had also tried equalizer 4 point sway hitch upgrade from reese hitch which helped but tires were the big difference
 

Dragonmaster13

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Sway issues = improper weight distribution

Likely need more weight to front axle, or higher tongue weight.

I tow a 33’ 7600lb 11’3” tall travel trailer and have no issues. It took a few attempts to get the hitch dialed to get enough weight back to the front axle, but when I did, the ED towed like a dream at any speed. Low 14mpg in the mountains to almost 17mpg on flat land with no wind.
 

trouserpants

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had the same problem , upgraded tires and solved issue , tows great now 2021 big horn quad with 392 axle 4x4 5.7 e torque towing 7500 lb loaded 27 ft trailer, I had also tried equalizer 4 point sway hitch upgrade from reese hitch which helped but tires were the big difference
OK, I'll ask the obvious. What tires did you go with?
 

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