The problem with lifted trucks that nobody is talking about

[Loudram]

I ran across this video. It's pretty interesting. I'm curious to know everyone's thoughts.

 

[Willwork4truck]

Interesting video and pretty well documented, of course it is TFL, not some internet "xpurt".

A coworker has a 2020 LTZ 4x CC 6.2 that he recently spent $4K on to get a 6" lift, new 37's and doubled shocks. He really likes its look, yet he complained about: The loss of mpg's, (about 4 on highway), the ride is stiffer (duh) and the tires are wearing weird (guess they failed the alignment). It's a commute truck/grocery getter so he doesn't care about the payload hit.

The two things I noticed are the side panels of his (black) doors are getting pitted from road sand/fine rock and the LED lights at night are way high now, like totally in your face.
Aside from the paint damage, I wonder where the lighting issue is in the safety side of things?

 

[SD Rebel]

Common issues with most lifted trucks, which is why I respect Carli so much in regards to their level/lift system, which maxes out at 2.5" and they will not build one taller due to those alignment issue specifically for the 1500 platform. They make taller kits for other models, but not the 1500 DT.

But wider taller tires and taller ride is havoc on mpg, wear, damage from stones/chips to the body work, etc. It does effect each vehicle differently depending on your environment and driving style, but that's part of the price you pay, no mod is free, even beyond what you paid for it.

 

[Willwork4truck]

Funny thing (to me) is that he is a conservative (meaning basic salt of the earth type) guy in his late 50's, not the type I'd have picked for a 6" lift and 37's. And my height (67") so he has to hop into it.

 

[Ramroo]

Lifted trucks are only beneficial for off road. Ground, door seal clearances with lift and taller tires really help if needed. I need it sometimes crossing swollen creeks and rutted dirt / mud roads.

However, lifts or levels, and big tires very quickly diminish hauling and towing capabilities. That is why people that need to use their trucks to do truck stuff don’t heavily modify. Especially 1/2 tons.

It is very entertaining to see what some people do to castrate their trucks.

 

[scottmoyer]

The video is talking about the load capability of truck. This has been discussed in other threads here related to towing travel trailers. Once you add your tongue weight, you don't have much left for luggage and people.

A 1400# carry weight, reduced by 800# trailer tongue weight leaves you with 600#. Add two adults that equal 350#, a 50# dog, and 200# of luggage and gear, and you have no more capacity. But, you added bigger wheels and tires that equal 120# more than the factory set, an aftermarket front bumper and winch for maybe 50-75#, a tonneau cover for 30#, side steps for maybe 20#, crap in your Ram Bins, etc, and your overloaded!!!

 

[Willwork4truck]

That full sized aftermarket front bumper and 10-12K (likely) winch probably is more like 150#.
I had a 1979 Chevy LUV with a pis*ant narrow front winch holder and off-brand 3K winch that likely weighed 75#.

 

[scottmoyer]

My bumper is stock, so you can see I have no clue on that one.

 

[Willwork4truck]

No problem.

I looked up a “Ranch Hand” front bumper assembly for a RAM 1500 as well as a couple competing brands and just the winch ready bumper alone (no grill guard) averaged 175#. There is a wide variance in the gauge of steel used as well as if it is a “low profile” vs a model with a brushguard. Then there is the winch. Differing wire rope capacities, rated pull etc… too many variables.

Synthetic rope material of course is lighter, but there are also accessories such as hooks, eyelets etc which can be added as well. Don’t forget the weight of the extra battery and cabling…

I did see one manufacturer that stated you should have a 2” lift on your truck in order to not sag. So there is your excuse for a lift! (Like peeps need an excuse.)

 

[boogielander]

you shouldn't sag with the correct spring rate