Tapping into hitch harness

[John Jensen]

I tapped into the trailer wiring harness. My tapping method is to expose the harness wire, wrap the connecting wire, solder, and triple+ tape. Been doing it that way for over 70 years for 22-10 gauge wiring, and never had a problem. And, if any tech does a crimp drvice splice, I correct it with a soldered splice

 

[Darksteel165]

Because using a harness doesn’t require you to expose or open any factory wiring whatsoever. You can go back to 100% stock.

And the harness is only like $30-40
I bought a CURT 56584 back in 2020 for $30.76 off of Amazon and butchered that up for my Silverado for an OPT7 lightbar (and 2 of the light bars died within 4 months)
I returned the Silverado to stock and kept the adaptor for the future as it's so versatile.

No reason to spend a boat load of money or completely cheap out, i'm sure whatever is getting installed is worth more then the "harness" (T splitter) costs anyways.

 

[Brutal_HO]

I meanz if you want to call out someone's wire taps, while suggesting they splice a 4-pin harness to whatever they want to power, then they probably would use crappy splices as well.

At least that would keep the factory wiring healthy, and that's generally the point.

Could I put in a "proper tap?" Yes, and I do. With a proper crimp barrel, ratcheting crimp tool with he correct jaws, and marine shrink tubing. Do I want to do that laying under the truck? Not if I don't have to.

If you're limited/forced to use a T-tap, at least get the Posi-Tap that only pierces the insulation and seal it well.

 

[Goodboy]

Wow!!!

You guys are... Really helpful thanks!

I'll give myself and anyone else with the knowledge and tools some advice.

I am by no means an expert! But I do have the tools and supplies: probably 6 different styles of crimpers right up to 000 gauge, 4 different kinds of soldering irons, delphi, weatherpack pins and insulators and connectors, marine grade shrink wrap, different open and closed (un insulated) connectors, wire of most common automotive gauge and different specifications (no cca I won't use it)

There are a couple of generaly accepted methods to tap a wire... And different methods to be used in different situations and personal beliefs. I'm not an expert and I'm not going to say or give advice on what method to use in this situation I haven't even looked at the wiring I need to tap into... but a google search will give you some industry accepted methods for you to choose from. The key to a good tap is that it will be protected from corrosion, will not damage/weaken the wire, and if the location or the way the tap was done has the possibility of breaking because of movement or vibration the supporting the connection is necessary... A wire hold down would be best imho. Splices are a common attribute of all automotive wiring harnesses and if done correctly will have no effect on the resale of your truck ( somebody expressed the ability to return to stock) won't expose your wiring to the elements like another stated. So... choose a method and do it! It will be just fine if done correctly.

The concerns most people have with wire taps are with the easy to insta plastic pinch tap connector and the insulated crimp connectors and terminals. These connectors generally have no corrosion control and damages the wire being taped or connected... Life expectancy of this kind of connection is usually weeks to months in severe conditions lol... Years ago I used them on my trailer and got almost 3 years! Haha... But I personally don't use them anymore.

There's always the twisted wire and electrical tape method... I used this to install my first stereo... I strongly urge you to not do this! Haha.

I should have known better than to ask for help here. Everyone is going to have an opinion on how to do this properly. And more importantly people are quick to judge and troll..

A harness is absolutely a fine way to go... For me it's an expensive way to add a bunch of wires that I don't need. For me a wire tap, primary wire, a two pin weatherpack connector. Wire loom and approximately sized grommets for wire penetrations what I'm going to do.

Whatever you do be nice doing it!

Merry Christmas everyone!

 

[Goodboy]

I read another post recently about doing this and someone suggested this:
DC12V 0-120mins Adjustable Cycle Times Switch Module, Delay On/Off Timer Delay Switch Module https://a.co/d/i8rtX8u

So I bought it, it was 11 cad lol...and it just arrived...
It's about 2 inches by half inch. I'm not sure if I want to use it, I'm always leary of offshore stuff, but it's not a bad solution. I'd just have to enclose it and mount somewhere... I'm worried it might fault to the on position and I'll find my battery dead.

The other though was a pin switch. There are a couple different types some similar to your dome light door switch with a rubber grommet or exposed like a car alarm hood switch. These switches are generally rated for 20 amps and probably enough for led bed lights. The idea would be to use the switch to ground the lights... you'd have to open the tailgate for the light to turn on. I had a brief look at my tailgate and I'm not sure if it could be done easily and cleanly... But I like this solution the best. These pin switches generally break in the open position so no dead battery issue.

Or just a switch... And hope it doesn't get forgotten or accidentally turned on.

Haven't decided on if I'm going to use a fuse... The constant power for the trailer should be fused already.

Anyone know what it's fused at? Amperage?

 

[RVTRKN]

It's never a good idea to splice into factory harness, if your under warranty. Buy a cheap adapter and butch that instead. I had an up fitter butch my 07 3500 C&C when they installed my flat bed. I was upset because they had the factory pigtail that goes with the temporary tail lights that they could have easily used. To add insult to injury they used the ground circuit to the frame like old school. I had to rewire the bed after intermittent turn signal issues. The Dodge tech warned me about cutting into the harness, if there was an issue with that. The up fitter paid for the rewiring of the bed when Dodge confirmed they were the cause of the issue. I turned in a receipt to the up fitter and they made good on it.

 

[1BADRAMLIMITED]

I tapped into the trailer wiring harness. My tapping method is to expose the harness wire, wrap the connecting wire, solder, and triple+ tape. Been doing it that way for over 70 years for 22-10 gauge wiring, and never had a problem. And, if any tech does a crimp drvice splice, I correct it with a soldered splice

Same here expose the wire, wrap and solder followed by heat shrink and wire loom. I use this method on UTV and Boat.