Subs and amp, need a little help

[Wu-Tang84]

Hey guys, in need of a little help.

So I have a 2020 Ram Rebel with the base non-nav 6 speaker system.

I'm adding a mono amp (Sundown SFB-2000D) and two 10 inch subwoofers(Sundown SA Classic 10"). All of the factory speakers are going to remain stock for now.

I went with the LC6i as my line-out converter and to future proof for when I add another amp and swap the factory speakers.

Since all speakers are running to the ANC and I need to bypass the ANC system anyway, I bought the PAC ANC-CH01.

I tapped into the rear door speakers at the harness and ran those to the LC6i. I ran the remote wire directly to an empty post on the fuse block under the hood. Power and ground to the LC6i are also being tapped from the ANC-CH01 harness.

I ran the remote wire (output) from the LC6i to my mono amp. Hooked up the amp accordingly; ran 0 awg to the battery with a 350 amp fuse. 0 awg ground wire.

The 2 door speakers that I tapped at the CH01 harness (RL-, RL+, RR-, RR+) are going to the LC6i's input side.

The subs are DVC 4 ohm. I have them wired series-parallel to remain 4 ohm. I plan to rewire to 1 ohm once I upgrade my battery and throw in a capacitor.

RCA's going from LC6i's output to the monoblock (not sure what the correct option is when only running subs).

Everything powers on. The rear door speakers that I tapped into work. Nothing from the subs. LC6i powers on. Amp powers on.

Tried different input positions on the LC6i (main, ch 2, ch 3) as well as different combinations on the output side.

Not sure if I'm missing something or if I'm overlooking jumper settings inside the LC6i or something.

I apologize for the long read, but as you can see I could use a little help.

 

[Wu-Tang84]

After reading through the "stock stereo" thread I see people mentioning resistors. Post 818 mentions 50 ohm resistors at the LC6i inputs.
I see that audiocontrol has the ac-lgd 20 which I'm assuming is pretty much the same thing. Audiocontrol says they are 20 ohm. Does the ohm rating of the resistor matter in this situation?

 

[djevox]

After reading through the "stock stereo" thread I see people mentioning resistors. Post 818 mentions 50 ohm resistors at the LC6i inputs.
I see that audiocontrol has the ac-lgd 20 which I'm assuming is pretty much the same thing. Audiocontrol says they are 20 ohm. Does the ohm rating of the resistor matter in this situation?

Can you link the post you’re talking about?

 

[RichInMN]

The purpose of the resistors is to present a load to the head unit on those channels, without which there is some indication that the head unit will shut off those channels.

If I read OP correctly, the same speakers that were tapped for the LOC are still working - IMO this would indicate the channels are not shut off at the head unit due to lack of resistance.

I would troubleshoot from the Sub back - test sub from speaker wires (detached from the amp) with a 1.5V battery. Could be a wire slipped off in the box. 2nd would be the amp (provide signal using a different source, like a headphone to RCA adapter cable played from a phone), then finally the LOC itself (hook up a speaker directly to the wires being used as input to the LOC).

(Side note, if resistors are needed for some reason, I have some in a box that I didn't need for my install)

 

[Wu-Tang84]

Can you link the post you’re talking about?

5th Gen Stock Stereo Upgrade Options?

 

[Wu-Tang84]

The purpose of the resistors is to present a load to the head unit on those channels, without which there is some indication that the head unit will shut off those channels.

If I read OP correctly, the same speakers that were tapped for the LOC are still working - IMO this would indicate the channels are not shut off at the head unit due to lack of resistance.

I would troubleshoot from the Sub back - test sub from speaker wires (detached from the amp) with a 1.5V battery. Could be a wire slipped off in the box. 2nd would be the amp (provide signal using a different source, like a headphone to RCA adapter cable played from a phone), then finally the LOC itself (hook up a speaker directly to the wires being used as input to the LOC).

(Side note, if resistors are needed for some reason, I have some in a box that I didn't need for my install)

Could the source of my remote wire to the LC6i be an issue? Someone on another forum had mentioned that this could be a problem and to grab my remote from the back of the factory HU.

Am I right in thinking this can't be the culprit because remote goes to LC6i which has a remote in and remote out, which I sent over to the amps remote in. If I pull power to the LC6i the amp shuts off as well. Which tells me the remote wire is doing its job?

Gonna run these test in the AM. Thanks a bunch

 

[djevox]

5th Gen Stock Stereo Upgrade Options?

Your issue isn’t the screen cutting off, so I don’t see how resistors would make a difference.

 

[Wu-Tang84]

Your issue isn’t the screen cutting off, so I don’t see how resistors would make a difference.

Maybe, but could it be that the system is cutting me off at the splice because of a difference in impedance?

When I was speaking to Audiocontrol earlier, they suggested I get AC-LGD 20, which to me essentially looks like a resistor pre rigged on their blocks.

 

[djevox]

Maybe, but could it be that the system is cutting me off at the splice because of a difference in impedance?

When I was speaking to Audiocontrol earlier, they suggested I get AC-LGD 20, which to me essentially looks like a resistor pre rigged on their blocks.

None of that should matter if you’re keeping the stock speakers in place. You are really only adding a sub and amp, correct? I think wiring and settings need to be double checked.

 

[RichInMN]

Could the source of my remote wire to the LC6i be an issue?

If they both turn on and off when you want them to, your remote wiring is OK. A lot of us used a fuse tap on slot 66 of the interior fuse box for remote (those details are buried in the 5th Gen Stereo mega thread though).

Good luck!

 

[Wu-Tang84]

None of that should matter if you’re keeping the stock speakers in place. You are really only adding a sub and amp, correct? I think wiring and settings need to be double checked.

Yeah, just a sub and amp. Gonna be retracing my steps in the morning and running some tests.

 

[Wu-Tang84]

If they both turn on and off when you want them to, your remote wiring is OK. A lot of us used a fuse tap on slot 66 of the interior fuse box for remote (those details are buried in the 5th Gen Stereo mega thread though).

Good luck!

That's the route I was going to go until I found out how hard it is to find a micro 2 fuse tap locally. I'll be swapping the remote wire source once the fuse taps comes in.

 

[djevox]

That's the route I was going to go until I found out how hard it is to find a micro 2 fuse tap locally. I'll be swapping the remote wire source once the fuse taps comes in.

it would be nice if we could help you a little quicker, but it is difficult to troubleshoot without knowing all of your wiring (and while sitting behind a keyboard). Here’s an example of me trying to help somebody with an audio wiring problem they had. I had to coax enough information out to give them a good answer.

 

[Wu-Tang84]

it would be nice if we could help you a little quicker, but it is difficult to troubleshoot without knowing all of your wiring (and while sitting behind a keyboard). Here’s an example of me trying to help somebody with an audio wiring problem they had. I had to coax enough information out to give them a good answer.

No worries man, I appreciate any and all help given. I've really got nothing else to go on until I test at the subs/amp/loc either tonight or tomorrow. If I can't get anywhere with that I'll start by pulling out the harness and my run of wires, cutting off the splices and starting fresh, taking pictures along the way.

Oh, and deffinitely gotta change that remote wire.

 

[djevox]

No worries man, I appreciate any and all help given. I've really got nothing else to go on until I test at the subs/amp/loc either tonight or tomorrow. If I can't get anywhere with that I'll start by pulling out the harness and my run of wires, cutting off the splices and starting fresh, taking pictures along the way.

Oh, and deffinitely gotta change that remote wire.

Before you go too deep and re-do everything, It’s worth it to re-read the manual (link below) and double check your speaker-level connections from the harness. It would also be good to give us a breakdown with which wire colors from the harness that attach to each input on the lc6i. Edit: Also make sure rca’s are connected to the main output and the input wires are in the corresponding input. (For ease of troubleshooting)

https://www.audiocontrol.com/downloads/car/current/lc6i/lc6i-user-manual.pdf

 

[Wu-Tang84]

Before you go too deep and re-do everything, It’s worth it to re-read the manual (link below) and double check your speaker-level connections from the harness. It would also be good to give us a breakdown with which wire colors from the harness that attach to each input on the lc6i. Edit: Also make sure rca’s are connected to the main output and the input wires are in the corresponding input. (For ease of troubleshooting)

https://www.audiocontrol.com/downloads/car/current/lc6i/lc6i-user-manual.pdf

I tapped into the green/green black, purple/purple black which are the rear doors. I tapped in at pretty much the same place it shows in the manual.

All splices were soldered and heat shrinked. I bought 40ft of 9 conductor speed wire, all of the colours match the colours on the harness for less confusion. Cut a section to the length I need, used only the green/green black, purple/purple black, taped the other wires up for use later when I add another amp and some components.

Each of the 4 wires goes into the corresponding main input block (RL-, RL+, RR-, RR+) on the LC6.

I tried with RCAs on ch1 (main), and I've tried setting the jumper to summing ch3 and plugging the RCAs to ch3.

Remote wire comes from fuse tap on fuse 66 under dash and goes to LC6 remote-in, then goes from LC6 remote-out to mono amp remote-in. Took power and ground from the CH01 harness (though I'm going to find a suitable bolt location under/near the drivers seat ...might be my problem now that I think about it?...).

Power to mono amp 1/0 wire from battery with 300A inline fuse. Found suitable ground at rear of cab near the amp.

Subs are DVC 4ohm and wired series-parallel (w/12awg wire) with to keep them 4ohm. 12awg goes to binding posts in the box. Seperate 12awg wires go from binding post to amp outputs.

 

[djevox]

I tapped into the green/green black, purple/purple black which are the rear doors. I tapped in at pretty much the same place it shows in the manual.

All splices were soldered and heat shrinked. I bought 40ft of 9 conductor speed wire, all of the colours match the colours on the harness for less confusion. Cut a section to the length I need, used only the green/green black, purple/purple black, taped the other wires up for use later when I add another amp and some components.

Each of the 4 wires goes into the corresponding main input block (RL-, RL+, RR-, RR+) on the LC6.

I tried with RCAs on ch1 (main), and I've tried setting the jumper to summing ch3 and plugging the RCAs to ch3.

Everything you’ve said sounds ok except for the fact that audio control says to not share power and ground with other system components. Also, I think your use of the remote wire input is not needed (based on instructions) but won’t hurt. To be clear, you wouldn’t be able to forgo the remote wire unless your input power is a clean source.

Edit: I think if you don’t have a difference when you clean up your input power, then you’re going to need to test your rca voltage with a DVOM to see if something’s lacking. You might as well check that the remote wire at the amp has good voltage also. If you wanted to go super oldschool, you could get a rca to female 3.5mm converter (plugged into lc6i output) and hook up headphones while adjusting volume and you’ll hear a signal in the headphones. It’s best to use pinktones, but you don’t have to.

Silly question: have you made sure your stereo is not faded to front?

 

[Wu-Tang84]

Everything you’ve said sounds ok except for the fact that audio control says to not share power and ground with other system components. Also, I think your use of the remote wire input is not needed (based on instructions) but won’t hurt. To be clear, you wouldn’t be able to forgo the remote wire unless your input power is a clean source.

Edit: I think if you don’t have a difference when you clean up your input power, then you’re going to need to test your rca voltage with a DVOM to see if something’s lacking. You might as well check that the remote wire at the amp has good voltage also. If you wanted to go super oldschool, you could get a rca to female 3.5mm converter (plugged into lc6i output) and hook up headphones while adjusting volume and you’ll hear a signal in the headphones. It’s best to use pinktones, but you don’t have to.

Silly question: have you made sure your stereo is not faded to front?

The ground/power to LC6 is the first thing I'm gonna swap tomorrow and then we'll take it from there.

According to a WaterFowler41 vid, using the GTO remote feature cause the LC6 to turn on and off periodically when the truck is off (as well as the amp if using remote out from LC6), as ANC apparently still runs checks when the truck is off.

I'd rather just take the few minutes to solder in the wire tap and eliminate any ifs or buts and get this system going.

Edit: And no, balance is not faded to front. That was the first thing I checked. If only it were that simple... I'd be annoying my neighbours already haha

 

[Wu-Tang84]

Update: got my fuse tap in and moved remote wire to fuse 66 under dash.

Ran dedicated power and ground to LC6 instead of pulling from harness.

For good measure, I ripped out the harness and resoldered all my splices.
Not sure which it was but we now have working subs. My guess is leaning towards my stupid decision in tapping power and ground to LC6 from the harness.

Thanks a bunch to those of you who tried to help!

 

[RichInMN]