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Sub Zero No start with new battery

Hwrigley

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Hello. I have a 2020 1500 with the 5.7 non e-torque, about 95,000 miles. Im sorry for the long post.

Starting around Christmas of this year, my truck had a hard time starting before work one day. For background, it was a Monday morning, I hadn’t ran the truck all weekend, and the temps for the end of the weekend were around -4f if I remember correctly. So I chocked it up to a bad battery, and replaced the battery that afternoon after work.

Move forward almost a month, middle of January 2025, another sub zero cold snap, I went to remote start the truck, It wouldn’t start. It was -9f outside as well. I figured the battery might have gotten low enough that it wouldn’t start remotely. I went out to the truck and hit the start button and it did nothing. It was acting like it normally would if you put it in start mode with out starting it (normal system check, blower fan on high, etc) however there was something new. It was now asking me for an anti-theft code, and I was getting every service warning light and notification on my dash that it could give.

Now at that point, I had owned the truck long enough and others vehicles that I knew one of two things. It was either a dead battery (service warning lights) or power control module problem (anti-theft code). So I used another vehicle to try and jump it and nothing. It would go through the motions of starting but never turn the starter. I kinda figured it needed the anti-theft code to start.

I called out of work and called the dealership when they opened becuase the code was no where to be found in the truck or manual anywhere. I had to drive to the dealership to get the code becuase they wouldn’t give it to me over the phone. By the time I had gotten the code and got back to the truck, it had been about 5 hours (6am-11am). I put the code into the radio and nothing, no start still. Tried jumping it once the code was input still nothing.

At this point I decided to check every fuse under the hood, basically out of options/ideas at this point. After checking them all, I tried once more to start it and out of a complete miracle, It started. I thought it was a potential fuse problemem since that’s all I had touched between start attempts. And the truck ran perfectlyy fine once it got started

I called the dealership and they were able to see it that day. I got it down there, and essentially paid them to tell me there wasn’t anything wrong with it at that point. They called it a fluke and told me bring it back if it happens again.

Now the next morning at 6am it’s -11f and once again, all the exact same things happen. At this point pissed off to no end, I tried pointing a blow drier at the PCM for about 5 minutes and lo and behold, it started. The PCM was apparently “too cold” to function.

So I went to work and reached back out to the dealership with this new information. They told me that “warming the PCM couldn’t have been the key and they wouldn’t replace the pcm on my warranty, without an active problem or physical damage somewhere.”

I have had to “preheat” the PCM 2 or 3 more times now since this all happened. To get my truck to start in the morning, but it will run perfectly fine after.

I guess I’m curious since I can’t find anything on google, has any one had this problem also?

EDIT: I am going to post this on the 5th Gen Ram Facebook group too.
 
I would get the battery tested somewhere other than the dealer. Low/dead batteries can cause all sorts of issues in these newer vehicles. It may be a new battery, but that doesn’t mean it’s good.

There was also a software update for that model year that fixed an issue with remote start not working when it was cold, I’ll see if I can find the info.

Some dealers just won’t put the time or effort in to properly diagnose an issue.
 
I have had the battery load tested, they said it was good. And I wouldn’t mind the dealership taking the truck for a few days but they “don’t have a loaner” and I can’t afford to go with out a vehicle.


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Two tsb’s I found. Both were performed on my 2020 and eventually fixed the starting issues I had.



My 2020 also had a loose ground on the back of the engine block which required it to be towed to the dealer in my first month of ownership.

Hope this is helpful, there is also a log file stored when remote start fails so they should be able to see why. As for manual starts failing it could be that the bcm is faulty and the cold is causing an issue, I haven’t heard of that before tho.

I would also double check that your rear window has never leaked along the perimeter. Cracked frames are quite common and leaking water usually causes issues with the module behind the rear seat.
 
The bizarre thing is, if the temp when trying to start for the first time in the morning is above 0°f or the PCM is warmed up first, the truck runs like brand new. I also won’t have another issue the rest of the day, it is just the first start in the morning after sitting all night if the temp is below 0°f


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Definitely a weird issue, hopefully someone who has had similar issues can help with a solution.

Things I would check is battery voltage with the truck off and asleep ( takes a while and key fob cannot be near the vehicle)

While the issue is present I would check voltage at the starter relay to see if 12v is present on the trigger pin of the relay. Maybe swap with an identical relay from another circuit to rule the relay out.

I am assuming the anti theft code is for the Uconnect system and doesn’t have an affect on the vehicle starting. Anytime the radio is disconnected from power it may ask for the anti theft code. Other users could comment more tho.

Could potentially be corrosion in the pcm connectors and warming the pcm up allows for a better connection. Disconnect and inspect the pcm connectors for corrosion.

Anytime you disconnect the battery you will lose some features and may end up with several lights on the dash, these issues should resolve themselves in a day or two tops.
 
How old is the battery in the key fob? Weak signal, maybe.
 
Maybe I guess, that doesn’t really explain why it won’t start even inside the truck at those below zero temps but will remote start and start from inside the truck just like new above zero. I tried using the key fob to push the start button when I first had the problems too.


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Definitely a weird issue, hopefully someone who has had similar issues can help with a solution.

Things I would check is battery voltage with the truck off and asleep ( takes a while and key fob cannot be near the vehicle)

While the issue is present I would check voltage at the starter relay to see if 12v is present on the trigger pin of the relay. Maybe swap with an identical relay from another circuit to rule the relay out.

I am assuming the anti theft code is for the Uconnect system and doesn’t have an affect on the vehicle starting. Anytime the radio is disconnected from power it may ask for the anti theft code. Other users could comment more tho.

Could potentially be corrosion in the pcm connectors and warming the pcm up allows for a better connection. Disconnect and inspect the pcm connectors for corrosion.

Anytime you disconnect the battery you will lose some features and may end up with several lights on the dash, these issues should resolve themselves in a day or two tops.

I’ll definitely try to test it out if it happens on a day when I don’t have to go to work
 
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If you are constantly in freezing temps, trickle charging is an option. I've always done this and never had an issue.

The only issue I've actually had is the key fob not being detected multiple times, even after changing the battery, again, during very cold times.
 
If you are constantly in freezing temps, trickle charging is an option. I've always done this and never had an issue.

The only issue I've actually had is the key fob not being detected multiple times, even after changing the battery, again, during very cold times.

I’ve definitely thought about the trickle charge option. When I have issues in the cold though, I never touch the battery, I either wait for the ambient temp to come up or use a blow dryer and heat up the PCM. Now I guess the claim could be there that the heat is going through the PCM to the battery behind it, but I have a hard time fully believing that. Once the PCM is happy, the truck starts like new. No other weird power issues, no driving issues, nothing other than an engine light saying the truck lost communication with the PCM.

Also the dealership says that the code when they read it is a “stored” code and not “active” so they can’t use it to go for a warranty claim or be able to diagnose off of it since the truck isn’t currently having a problem.
 
I’ve definitely thought about the trickle charge option. When I have issues in the cold though, I never touch the battery, I either wait for the ambient temp to come up or use a blow dryer and heat up the PCM. Now I guess the claim could be there that the heat is going through the PCM to the battery behind it, but I have a hard time fully believing that. Once the PCM is happy, the truck starts like new. No other weird power issues, no driving issues, nothing other than an engine light saying the truck lost communication with the PCM.

Also the dealership says that the code when they read it is a “stored” code and not “active” so they can’t use it to go for a warranty claim or be able to diagnose off of it since the truck isn’t currently having a problem.

Yea that sucks. It's one of those things you can't just drive to them and say "check it out now while it's still doing it". I've ran into issues like that and then you have to go through the process of them recreating the issue or basically forcing a tech to ride with you so you can show them.

I wonder if it's a sort of parasitic drain and causing the PCM to deplete any remaining charge in it's capacitors? Admittedly, this is a bit beyond my level of comfort diagnosing or troubleshooting.

Maybe they can just replace the PCM instead?
 
Yea that sucks. It's one of those things you can't just drive to them and say "check it out now while it's still doing it". I've ran into issues like that and then you have to go through the process of them recreating the issue or basically forcing a tech to ride with you so you can show them.

I wonder if it's a sort of parasitic drain and causing the PCM to deplete any remaining charge in it's capacitors? Admittedly, this is a bit beyond my level of comfort diagnosing or troubleshooting.

Maybe they can just replace the PCM instead?

I’ve thought about leaving the truck at the dealership overnight on a night where the temp drops low enough it would cause an issue. But there’s 2 problems, one is they “don’t have a loaner” which is the excuse I’ve heard every time I’ve asked about one and I don’t have any other vehicles and need to have a way to get to work and two is my luck it won’t have an issue for them and then I look like an idiot.

I don’t know what’s causing it, but it definitely seems like the PCM is “frozen” for a lack of better words and needs to thaw before it will send power and communications again


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I’ve thought about leaving the truck at the dealership overnight on a night where the temp drops low enough it would cause an issue. But there’s 2 problems, one is they “don’t have a loaner” which is the excuse I’ve heard every time I’ve asked about one and I don’t have any other vehicles and need to have a way to get to work and two is my luck it won’t have an issue for them and then I look like an idiot.

I don’t know what’s causing it, but it definitely seems like the PCM is “frozen” for a lack of better words and needs to thaw before it will send power and communications again


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Yea sorry about that I feel your pain. I used to have two vehicles but since one was a write off I no longer need, now I only have one. And they don't do loaners around me either.
 
Had a similar issue recently with our SUV - the fob battery was weak and when the fob was cold, the vehicle wouldn't recognize the fob for keyless entry or start. Put the fob in your hand or take it indoors and once warmed up it would work fine. Took me a little while to figure out it was the fob because it would remote start, lock, unlock from inside the house just fine. But when the fob was in a pocket outdoors or in a cold environment, it wouldn't work - it was like the vehicle was dead since it could not detect the fob. Changed the battery in the fob and it works normally again.

I guess when the battery is weak, the cold affects the battery enough for it to not work at all. It was a weird coincidence that it was cold a few times and we didn't catch on right away.
 
Had a similar issue recently with our SUV - the fob battery was weak and when the fob was cold, the vehicle wouldn't recognize the fob for keyless entry or start. Put the fob in your hand or take it indoors and once warmed up it would work fine. Took me a little while to figure out it was the fob because it would remote start, lock, unlock from inside the house just fine. But when the fob was in a pocket outdoors or in a cold environment, it wouldn't work - it was like the vehicle was dead since it could not detect the fob. Changed the battery in the fob and it works normally again.

I guess when the battery is weak, the cold affects the battery enough for it to not work at all. It was a weird coincidence that it was cold a few times and we didn't catch on right away.

Interesting. I always have my fob in my pocket and never leave it anywhere. When the issues happened. The truck was in the -11°f temps, and the fob was at 68°f inside the house in my pocket. The truck would also recognize the signal from the fob for lock/unlock and remote start. It just wouldn’t start
 
Had a similar issue recently with our SUV - the fob battery was weak and when the fob was cold, the vehicle wouldn't recognize the fob for keyless entry or start. Put the fob in your hand or take it indoors and once warmed up it would work fine. Took me a little while to figure out it was the fob because it would remote start, lock, unlock from inside the house just fine. But when the fob was in a pocket outdoors or in a cold environment, it wouldn't work - it was like the vehicle was dead since it could not detect the fob. Changed the battery in the fob and it works normally again.

I guess when the battery is weak, the cold affects the battery enough for it to not work at all. It was a weird coincidence that it was cold a few times and we didn't catch on right away.
Just had that happen with my spare fob that stays in a unheated garage, put in a new battery and it works again.
 

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