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Squirrely steering after alignment ?

msnyder1112

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Just got an alignment after re-orienting my camber bolts (dont ask).

The steering feels very hard to maintain. I am lifted but I dont recall it feeling like this prior.

Heres a pic of my alignment. Please tell me I’m crazy and things are fine?

(I’m waiting on stub shaft to come in for the dealer to replace and I’ll have them double check, but wanted to get it out on here first for some thoughts).
 

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Just got an alignment after re-orienting my camber bolts (dont ask).

The steering feels very hard to maintain. I am lifted but I dont recall it feeling like this prior.

Heres a pic of my alignment. Please tell me I’m crazy and things are fine?

(I’m waiting on stub shaft to come in for the dealer to replace and I’ll have them double check, but wanted to get it out on here first for some thoughts).
The numbers seem to be in spec.
 
WIth the current measurements, you've now got more tire on the road with the increase in positive camber. With the caster offset, it should drive pretty good considering most roads are crowned to the right. Vehicles tend to favor the direction of the side with lower caster.

What shape are your tires in? How many miles on them?
 
WIth the current measurements, you've now got more tire on the road with the increase in positive camber. With the caster offset, it should drive pretty good considering most roads are crowned to the right. Vehicles tend to favor the direction of the side with lower caster.

What shape are your tires in? How many miles on them?
tires are all in great shape. Maybe 3k on them tops. I did just have them rotated too.
 
Did you have anything in the bed of truck when the alignment was done ? Curious as to why the rear camber shifted. Not much but it still shifted.
 
On my last truck having all 4 of my tires slightly over inflated made it handle a little squirrely. I'd at least check all the pressures.
 
Or, the tech may have been agressive when performing the adjustments and physically moved the truck a bit too much on the turn/slip plates of the rack. End result is that is looks great on the screen, but in reality, the values are not the same. It hppens. I know for a fact because it's happened to me numerous times on what appears to be the same alignment system as the one you have the printout. Hunter Engineering most deff.

If you're still experiencing the steering issue, have them perform another runout and compare the results they provided prior.
 
Or, the tech may have been agressive when performing the adjustments and physically moved the truck a bit too much on the turn/slip plates of the rack. End result is that is looks great on the screen, but in reality, the values are not the same. It hppens. I know for a fact because it's happened to me numerous times on what appears to be the same alignment system as the one you have the printout. Hunter Engineering most deff.

If you're still experiencing the steering issue, have them perform another runout and compare the results they provided prior.
Theyre doing the drivers side intermediate shaft soon so I’ll have them check it again then.
 
On my last truck having all 4 of my tires slightly over inflated made it handle a little squirrely. I'd at least check all the pressures.
All are at the correct psi. Best i can describe it is its hard to keep it straight. Maybe pulling left a little? Maybe not really returning to center.
 
I would ask in the suspension forum. I'm only familiar with Jeeps, so this may not apply to you (or Ram's):

6" is a fairly tall lift. At least for Jeeps, once you get close to 3"+, most would change out the drag link and track bar. Sometimes a different pitman arm, etc. If you are hitting bumps in the road and it jolts the wheels and you have to counter steer, that is called 'bump steer'. Usually requires some of the things I mentioned to fix. You should be able to hit bumps and not have to counter steer.

For PSI, you mention all are 'correct'. What does that mean? What PSI are you running? If you're running 35" aftermarket tires, you should no longer be using the pressure on the door sticker or the max the tire will allow. People often think those are the correct numbers, and that is usually incorrect. Probably not the main culprit here, but overinflating the tires is going to make your steering more jolting. Also be aware that tire shops rarely know the correct PSI range unless they do a lot of RAM trucks. They usually want to go off a number based on the max range. When I get new tires, I always tell them what I want the PSI set at.
 
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I would ask in the suspension forum. I'm only familiar with Jeeps, so this may not apply to you (or Ram's):

6" is a fairly tall lift. At least for Jeeps, once you get close to 3"+, most would change out the drag link and track bar. Sometimes a different pitman arm, etc. If you are hitting bumps in the road and it jolts the wheels and you have to counter steer, that is called 'bump steer'. Usually requires some of the things I mentioned to fix. You should be able to hit bumps and not have to counter steer.

For PSI, you mention all are 'correct'. What does that mean? What PSI are you running? If you're running 35" aftermarket tires, you should no longer be using the pressure on the door sticker or the max the tire will allow. People often think those are the correct numbers, and that is usually incorrect. Probably not the main culprit here, but overinflating the tires is going to make your steering more jolting. Also be aware that tire shops rarely know the correct PSI range unless they do a lot of RAM trucks. They usually want to go off a number based on the max range. When I get new tires, I always tell them what I want the PSI set at.
This didnt start with the installation of the lift. It was totallyy fine until recently when I got an alignment.

Im running 36 psi on my 35s which again, isn’t any different than before.
 
Guys. I noticed on my alignment printout, they have me listed as a RAM Rebel but i have a bighorn with a 6in lift. RC states to align to or spec.
Is the rebel spec much different than the bighorn?
 
There is a difference, but I'm unsure as to what and I also don't have access to the spec list anymore. But, with everything I've seen when using Hunter systems, if a specific model is listed, there is a difference in spec. Otherwise, it would say something like Ram 2019-2024 1500 4x4 (All trims)
 
There is a difference, but I'm unsure as to what and I also don't have access to the spec list anymore. But, with everything I've seen when using Hunter systems, if a specific model is listed, there is a difference in spec. Otherwise, it would say something like Ram 2019-2024 1500 4x4 (All trims)
Thanks! I’m wondering if that’s why it’s weird.
 
Thanks! I’m wondering if that’s why it’s weird.
I highly doubt that would make a difference.

I would try taking it to the shop that did the lift. I had something similar with one of my Jeeps: I paid for lifetime alignment at a tire shop. Every time I took it in for alignment, it would not track straight on the road. I took it to the offroad shop and they were able to fix it in a couple minutes. After the third time doing this, I stopped taking it in for alignment unless I was planning to go to the offroad shop in the near future.
 
I highly doubt that would make a difference.

I would try taking it to the shop that did the lift. I had something similar with one of my Jeeps: I paid for lifetime alignment at a tire shop. Every time I took it in for alignment, it would not track straight on the road. I took it to the offroad shop and they were able to fix it in a couple minutes. After the third time doing this, I stopped taking it in for alignment unless I was planning to go to the offroad shop in the near future.
Yeah. Thats a good point. It felt very good when they aligned it after lifting it so I’ll definitely do that.
 

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