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Seemingly endless problems with 2019 Rebel...I don't know what to do

7thapollo

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I don't know if this is where this post belongs, but, here it is;

2019 RAM Rebel crew cab, 5.7, eTorque, air suspension, pano roof, trailer breaks, all the amenities.

I daily this vehicle, 75% highway miles, I put on 30k miles in 2 years. I've towed <8,000lbs for work about 20k of those miles. I don't abuse this truck, I drive to get the best MPG I can, been offroad 1 time in a friend's corn field for 5 minutes.

TLDR; this truck was bought at 31k miles from a Toyota dealership and has non stop issues for the past 2 years. Today, the straw is breaking the camels back. Do I go to RAM directly? Find a lawyer? Go after the Toyota dealership that sold me the truck? Am I SOL? Never had this many issues with a vehicle.

Before commenting about all the red flags before purchasing this truck, I know, I wish I hadn't purchased it, and I felt mildly uneasy with the purchase but thought the problem was fixed and it was gtg. I was very wrong and regret this purchase to the depths of my inner core.

Continuing (the full, unadulterated story):
When I bought this truck in 2022, it was sitting in the back corner of a major Toyota dealership in my area (Le Mieux Toyota). I stopped by and wanted to take it for a test drive. What a terrible decision... I got the key, and the truck was dead. They told me they would charge the battery and to come back. They did, I did. When I arrived, I turned the truck on and the check engine light was on. First red flag. I assumed it was on as a result of the dead battery and would take some driving to reset. CEL never went away. I addressed this issue with the dealership and told them I'm not buying a vehicle with a check engine light, they didn't want to fix it and said "it's just the battery" not even offering to replace the battery. I didn't let that fly, I told them to fix it and I would buy it. They had begun working on the truck to diagnose the issue and over the course of 2 weeks, continuously had no answers for me. I should've just dropped the whole idea and continued looking elsewhere. But instead, I suggested they send it to a RAM certified dealership and get it straightened out. They refused over and over but eventually came back telling me they sent it to a RAM dealership service center and it was a faulty eTorque system, they told me they replaced [what they thought was] the bad component/s and there was no more CEL. I went back, test drove it, no CEL, I believed them but did not see any service related paperwork (dumb, I know).

I went through with the purchase, I purchased a premium extended warranty out of gut feeling (thank God), and left with a new-to-me truck. I was happy.

Over the course of 2 months, I noticed the CEL came back on, as a result of the absolutely abhorrent customer service at Toyota (much of the sales process I did not include due to relevancy), I decided this vehicle is going directly to and only to a RAM certified dealership/service center. I never went back or talked to Toyota after the day I left the lot.

The check engine light was intermittent. It came on, and went off, and came on, and went off, over, and over, and over, over the course of the first year. I made MANY attempts to get this addressed, but the problem persisted that I would schedule an appointment, and come appointment day there was no CEL and they could not pull any codes. So I was left standing there with them telling me there was nothing they could do. I continued driving the truck with the CEL coming on and off until one day I realized the 8.4" uconnect screen was having a ghosting/screen burn-in issues. I got the truck in, the extended warranty covered the replacement with a reman'd part, and after the replacement it was working and has been working fine. I asked for them to see if they could find any codes while the truck was being diagnosed, no CEL and thus, the usual "we couldn't pull any codes". Which is completely contrary to being told "if it's throwing a CEL, it should be storing the codes in the computer."

I took my truck back and continued using it. 6ish months go by with intermittent CEL still unaddressed because dealerships seem to not hear me when I tell them "it's on right now and I can bring it in, but if we schedule it out, it will likely be off come that date." No dealerships wanted to help me address the issue immediately and all wanted to book me out 2-3 weeks consistently. My patience is wearing thin.

6-8 months go by after getting uconnect replaced and I'm leaving a gas station and CEL pops on again and truck had a hard time starting. I immediately call the service center to get it in ASAP, They told me to bring it in the following Monday (I called on a Wednesday). I wasn't happy about waiting, but it was the soonest any certified service center ever offered to get me in their schedule. The next morning my truck won't start. I jump start it, I leave and go about my day. A handful of on and off's throughout the day and I think it must have just gotten too cold and I needed to drive it to charge it up. Luckily I made it home. the next morning, the truck won't start. Same thing. The following morning same thing happens and I've completely lost my patience. It's the coldest part of winter, I work for residential clients, I cannot risk not being able to leave a clients home and depending on them to jump start my truck. Looks bad on me, and is embarrassing. I bring it to dealership that Friday, they take the truck in and tell me they understand and will get working on it right away. They did not get working on it right away but waited until Monday. The truck then sat at the shop for 2 full weeks with no definitive answers until they tell me they found a USB port parasitic drain. The battery is fine, the USB port is outputting power nonstop whether a cable is plugged in or not. They replace the module that is faulting, the battery is at full health. They showed me. Off I go.

5 months later of the CEL still coming off and on with no actual fix, and I notice one day some fluid leaking directly in front of rear passenger wheel. I schedule to get truck in, I bring truck in, and mention the issues and noted that I also hear ticking from the exhaust manifolds. They do a full diagnostics, both rear body mounts are compromised (seal failure and BM fluid completely gone) and both exhaust manifolds are cracked. All parts covered under warranty. They order the parts, and 3 weeks later I bring it in and everything is replaced within a day.

I get the truck back (we are now just 8 days ago from the time of this posting). The truck has been running flawless minus the CEL coming on 1 time the day after I got the truck back. It turned off within 1 power cycle (usually stays on for days at a time). I thought this may have been the fix. Maybe the exhaust leak was throwing off fuel to air ratio or the O2 sensors were not reading the proper amount of exhaust this entire time. My confidence is finally up with my truck. My MPG has gone up significantly, the truck feels more responsive and has more power, smoother ride. I feel good.

Today, I am driving home, and about 4 minutes from my driveway, My CEL comes on, and my stop/start becomes unavailable. I get a warning message on my cluster to service stop/start system. I turn the truck off and on, it takes a moment longer than usual to start and that's when I realized in the back of my head that this truck is going to be back in the shop. I immediately get a red battery logo on my cluster. I quickly navigate to my system info on the cluster and go to my battery and it's in the red reading 11.5v. I drive home, I call the same service center I just got the truck back from 8 days ago, and told them I have to bring this in immediately. They say absolutely. I drive straight to the service center, and leave it running because I fear if I turn it off, it won't start and I finally have the opportunity to get codes off this truck...after 2 years. As the service advisor is scanning for codes, 1 system fails, then the next, then the next, my cluster becomes a Christmas tree, the entire electric system is failing in front of our eyes (presumably because the battery is dying), and eventually all the electronics shut off. Cannot shift into drive. I was going to move the truck to a better spot when I noticed I couldn't shift, I hop out and start walking towards the front of the truck when I notice smoke billowing form under the hood and the truck is pissing coolant. So I run over and turn the truck off. (Yes, I was dumb and should've turned the truck off as soon as all the electronics went. I was in a state of WTF and didn't think to do so.)

The truck is now sitting in the shop and they are telling me they can't get a read on codes because they can't get the battery to above 9 volts. They want to force me to purchase a $400 battery and will not return it if that is not the problem and it turns out to be something related to the electrical system or eTorque. They also won't guarantee me that the battery is fried. After reading this entire rant, I realize that the battery has been in question since the day I first sat in the truck. I am also aware the from that time, the problems have consistently been other issues in the truck and I have been told over and over that the battery is fine. I'm not interested in spending a single dollar on this truck if it is not going to immediately address the problems I am experiencing. My issue is that my RAM service advisor and tech will not tell me if it's an electrical system fault, or a battery problem, and they will not use a different battery to arrive at a conclusive answer, and are putting it on me to spend the money to potentially be left with 2 perfectly fine batteries, or, 2 completely fried batteries, and needing to buy a 3rd if there is a fault in the system that is killing the battery.

I'm so done with this truck. I hate it. It's been in the shop for over 6 weeks collectively since I bought it. There's been over $4,000 of repairs, and non stop issues. What can I do short of continuously dealing with a problematic vehicle? Do I have any legal right's as a second owner?

Update: They replaced the battery with a brand new MOPAR AGM battery from their parts stock, left truck sit over night, manager just took it for a test drive as of 10:19am cst and check engine light came back on.

Update #2: "Looking like it needs the hybrid battery pack, covered under factory warranty but the part is not typically stocked."
I wonder how long this is going to take to get in?
 
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Willwork4truck

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Sure seems like a nightmare. Now you have a new starter battery and they say they will replace the 48 volt at no cost.

That‘s what I basically got out of this. Whats going on with the cooling system?

Find out then it is time to dump it.

Sounds like somebody stuck it to you, but the truck is “better off” now so you've done your part.

Take the loss if you can and follow your gut on the next purchase.

It still pisses me off (when I think about it) what I’ve lost on bad deals/vehicles but its water way under the bridge. Try to move on.

Sorry for your difficulties.
 

rick619

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If they can't fix it, I'd be tempted to take it to a different dealer and see if they can.Though a lemon is going to be a lemon. If there's no warranty on it, they're going to tell you to pound sand. So I'd be tempted to just trade it in, or sell it to an online retailer like Carmax.

I had somewhat similar situation. Got a 2011 F150 V8 from a Lexus dealer around 2015 with 60K miles. No warranty. At about 4000 miles after buying it, needed a new engine. $7500 and 1.5 months later, drove it for a month. It started ticking. Took it back, needed ANOTHER engine. At least this one was still under warranty. 2 months later get it back. Drove for about 10K miles. A hole rips in the engine block, oil spewing out. Also needed new tires and rack and pinion replacement at this point, about $6K in repairs. Traded it for a new '18 F150. It will forever be referred to as 'the cursed F150'.

Bottom line, if you get a used vehicle that problems just won't go away, cut your loses ASAP and move on with your life. Last owner must of abused it somehow, or it was just a lemon to begin with. That's the problem with getting a used vehicle, you're taking a chance. If I ever get a used vehicle again, I will suck it up and buy a warranty.
 

RedFred

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Truck has an issue that just needs to be properly diagnosed and addressed. Finding a competent person to properly diagnose it, seems to be the issue. Good luck going forward. Hopefully a new e-torque battery solves the issue for you.
 

mikeru82

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Do you know what component they replaced before you bought the truck? On etorque equipped trucks the 12v battery gets charged by the 48v battery module. The gauge cluster lighting up like a Christmas tree was likely caused by the low 12v battery voltage. Weird things happen when the system voltage drops too low. I'm wondering if the 48v battery module has been the problem all along.
 

Willwork4truck

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Tis true that a low battery really can f up these electronics and chippy vehicles. I‘ve read dozens of threads in various truck and rv forums about how when the owner put in a new battery, a lot of electrical issues got fixed. Obviously you have more than that going on however that was a good start.

2019 was the guinea pig year for ET, I remember a few threads about that system having some real issues back then. Try a search about it as far as symptoms.
 

7thapollo

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If they can't fix it, I'd be tempted to take it to a different dealer and see if they can.Though a lemon is going to be a lemon. If there's no warranty on it, they're going to tell you to pound sand. So I'd be tempted to just trade it in, or sell it to an online retailer like Carmax.

I had somewhat similar situation. Got a 2011 F150 V8 from a Lexus dealer around 2015 with 60K miles. No warranty. At about 4000 miles after buying it, needed a new engine. $7500 and 1.5 months later, drove it for a month. It started ticking. Took it back, needed ANOTHER engine. At least this one was still under warranty. 2 months later get it back. Drove for about 10K miles. A hole rips in the engine block, oil spewing out. Also needed new tires and rack and pinion replacement at this point, about $6K in repairs. Traded it for a new '18 F150. It will forever be referred to as 'the cursed F150'.

Bottom line, if you get a used vehicle that problems just won't go away, cut your loses ASAP and move on with your life. Last owner must of abused it somehow, or it was just a lemon to begin with. That's the problem with getting a used vehicle, you're taking a chance. If I ever get a used vehicle again, I will suck it up and buy a warranty.
Once I took ownership of the truck, I begain bringing it directly to a local RAM dealership/service center. They were good, until they weren't (terrible communication on my vehicle sitting in their shop for 2 weeks.) It is now at the 2nd RAM dealership for the 3rd time. I like the idea of bringing it to the same service center so they can get a grasp on the vehicle and know what has been tested and where else to look. It seems they are replacing the 48v hybrid battery pack, and this may fix the issues completely. Will update after I get the truck back.
 

7thapollo

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Do you know what component they replaced before you bought the truck? On etorque equipped trucks the 12v battery gets charged by the 48v battery module. The gauge cluster lighting up like a Christmas tree was likely caused by the low 12v battery voltage. Weird things happen when the system voltage drops too low. I'm wondering if the 48v battery module has been the problem all along.
Yesterday, I spent the entire day going to the dealerships that I was aware this truck has been to, to collect service records. The selling dealership gave me a printout of their juvenile attempt at fixing the issue. The record they gave me states they replaced the alternator and the battery. I found out they placed a cheap NAPA battery in the truck. They refused to provide technical information on exactly what battery (model #) was placed in the truck.
 

7thapollo

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Tis true that a low battery really can f up these electronics and chippy vehicles. I‘ve read dozens of threads in various truck and rv forums about how when the owner put in a new battery, a lot of electrical issues got fixed. Obviously you have more than that going on however that was a good start.

2019 was the guinea pig year for ET, I remember a few threads about that system having some real issues back then. Try a search about it as far as symptoms.
appears '19 still has some real issues. I suspect this is why the original owner traded it in. Guy was probably going through the same thing I am and got utterly sick of it. I also realized that if the battery is toast, that it would be the reason for the electronics going haywire.
 

mikeru82

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Yesterday, I spent the entire day going to the dealerships that I was aware this truck has been to, to collect service records. The selling dealership gave me a printout of their juvenile attempt at fixing the issue. The record they gave me states they replaced the alternator and the battery. I found out they placed a cheap NAPA battery in the truck. They refused to provide technical information on exactly what battery (model #) was placed in the truck.
That's not possible because your truck does not even have an alternator. The etorque equipped trucks have a BSG (Belt Starter Generator) instead of an alternator and use the 48v battery module to charge the 12v battery main battery.
 

Cbty2050

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That's not possible because your truck does not even have an alternator. The etorque equipped trucks have a BSG (Belt Starter Generator) instead of an alternator and use the 48v battery module to charge the 12v battery main battery.
Generator and alternator terms are used incorrectly al the time. It doesn't make a difference because we all know what the advisor is trying to communicate. Parts catalog calls it a generator, service information calls it a MGU(motor generator unit) and you call it BSG.
 

DEG

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That's not possible because your truck does not even have an alternator. The etorque equipped trucks have a BSG (Belt Starter Generator) instead of an alternator and use the 48v battery module to charge the 12v battery main battery.

Except Mopar calls the eTorque generator an alternator or "Alternator Kit" so it stands to reason dealer service departments would use the actual name given to the part by Mopar.
 

Cbty2050

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Except Mopar calls the eTorque generator an alternator or "Alternator Kit" so it stands to reason dealer service departments would use the actual name given to the part by Mopar.
3.6l is a "GENERATOR KIT" in parts catalog and service information calls it a "MGU"
 

mikeru82

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Thanks for clarifying the name Mopar uses for the part, guys. I guess what was throwing a red flag for me is the fact that it was a non Stellantis brand dealership that did the work. I have experiences with Ram technicians having difficulty troubleshooting the etorque system. Couple that with what I mentioned in my last post and I was skeptical about the work that was performed.

Generator and alternator terms are used incorrectly al the time. It doesn't make a difference because we all know what the advisor is trying to communicate. Parts catalog calls it a generator, service information calls it a MGU(motor generator unit) and you call it BSG.
I call it a BSG based on articles I've read about the system. It's more of a generic term. I'm finding out manufacturers have their own terminology for them.
 

DEG

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An alternator is simply a device that converts mechanical energy to electrical energy with an alternating current. In auto applications, the AC is then converted to DC current to charge a battery.

The eTorque motor does exactly that, and more, so it's technically not inaccurate to call it an alternator as MOPAR often does. It's just not a typical automotive alternator since it does more than convert mechanical energy to electrical AC energy.

If the story below is correct, and the windings result in an AC output that must be converted to DC it's more accurate to call it an alternator than it is to call it a generator. The most accurate term would be "alternator/motor.


On the Ram V6, the BSG hangs off the front of the engine and has a reverse rotation compared to the traditional location on the side of the engine. This mounting location allows for a shorter belt but the reversed positioning of the motor limits airflow for cooling. Thus, this Continental supplied BSG is liquid cooled with its own dedicated cooling circuit and heat exchanger.
The Magneti Marelli-supplied BSG on the V8 sits up on top of the engine which allows for more cooling air flow through it so no liquid cooling is needed. Both BSGs have the power electronics which convert the AC they produce to DC for the battery, integrated for easier packaging. The V6 BSG can provide up to 90 lb-ft of boost while the larger unit on the Hemi can add 130 lb-ft.

2019 Ram 1500 eTorque, Getting Mildly Hybridized
 

mikeru82

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An alternator is simply a device that converts mechanical energy to electrical energy with an alternating current. In auto applications, the AC is then converted to DC current to charge a battery.

The eTorque motor does exactly that, and more, so it's technically not inaccurate to call it an alternator as MOPAR often does. It's just not a typical automotive alternator since it does more than convert mechanical energy to electrical AC energy.

If the story below is correct, and the windings result in an AC output that must be converted to DC it's more accurate to call it an alternator than it is to call it a generator. The most accurate term would be "alternator/motor.


On the Ram V6, the BSG hangs off the front of the engine and has a reverse rotation compared to the traditional location on the side of the engine. This mounting location allows for a shorter belt but the reversed positioning of the motor limits airflow for cooling. Thus, this Continental supplied BSG is liquid cooled with its own dedicated cooling circuit and heat exchanger.
The Magneti Marelli-supplied BSG on the V8 sits up on top of the engine which allows for more cooling air flow through it so no liquid cooling is needed. Both BSGs have the power electronics which convert the AC they produce to DC for the battery, integrated for easier packaging. The V6 BSG can provide up to 90 lb-ft of boost while the larger unit on the Hemi can add 130 lb-ft.

2019 Ram 1500 eTorque, Getting Mildly Hybridized
There's a little more to it than that. You're right that alternators produce AC, but generators can produce AC or DC. For more information you can read this or any number of other articles for yourself...

For the purpose of this thread we'd need to be familiar with the internal design of the device before we can determine which is more accurate.

Regardless, the article you quoted in fact uses the term BSG for both versions used in Ram trucks, which would indicate it is a generator. Mopar does a good job of muddying the waters by using the name alternator for this part.

In the end it doesn't really matter. OP's truck is still broken, at least for now.
 

7thapollo

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Sure seems like a nightmare. Now you have a new starter battery and they say they will replace the 48 volt at no cost.

That‘s what I basically got out of this. Whats going on with the cooling system?

Find out then it is time to dump it.

Sounds like somebody stuck it to you, but the truck is “better off” now so you've done your part.

Take the loss if you can and follow your gut on the next purchase.

It still pisses me off (when I think about it) what I’ve lost on bad deals/vehicles but its water way under the bridge. Try to move on.

Sorry for your difficulties.
You summed up the current situation in a sentence lol. I believe the cooling system went out when the battery kicked the bucket and the fan turned off leading it to overheat momentarily. I wish the service advisor had the foresight to warn me that I should probably turn the truck off before that happened. I'm fairly mechanically inclined, I've torn apart engines and worked on exhaust, suspension, breaks, and other vehicle things in my own garage, I should've thought of it but wanted them to see the problems firsthand instead of hearing my stories. I don't believe the cooling system was damaged.
That's not possible because your truck does not even have an alternator. The etorque equipped trucks have a BSG (Belt Starter Generator) instead of an alternator and use the 48v battery module to charge the 12v battery main battery.
im assuming the idiots at Toyota called the unit an alternator. I just stated what was written in the service record
 

Hokie-ram

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There are thousands of used rebels.. why did you insist on buying one with a CEL ..? Wouldn’t it have been easier to look for another truck ? Was the one you bought priced thousands below similar rebel elsewhere?

I don’t under the logic behind this ..
 

mikeru82

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There are thousands of used rebels.. why did you insist on buying one with a CEL ..? Wouldn’t it have been easier to look for another truck ? Was the one you bought priced thousands below similar rebel elsewhere?

I don’t under the logic behind this ..
No point in beating him up about it at this point. I'm sure he realizes his mistake and is just trying to move on.
 

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