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Road Line Paint Removal
- Thread starter Kone
- Start date
I’m sure I’ll catch some crap for this, but here’s a couple options I’ve used in the past. These work because the existing surfaces aren’t prepped for the road paint to cure properly.
Pressure wash first and see what’s left.
Then choose one of the options below* (but not both as that’s unnecessary):
1. Apply wd-40 to affected areas and let sit for an hour then rinse off and then wash with soap and water.
2. Apply overspray remover from goof-off or 3m. Follow dieections on times, then wash with soap and water.
*Both of these options will ruin ceramic finishes or strip waxes in the affected area, so reapplication of your paint protection will be needed for painted surfaces.
Pressure wash first and see what’s left.
Then choose one of the options below* (but not both as that’s unnecessary):
1. Apply wd-40 to affected areas and let sit for an hour then rinse off and then wash with soap and water.
2. Apply overspray remover from goof-off or 3m. Follow dieections on times, then wash with soap and water.
*Both of these options will ruin ceramic finishes or strip waxes in the affected area, so reapplication of your paint protection will be needed for painted surfaces.
Jako
Spends too much time on here
Appreciate all suggestions, have the bride's car to "fix".
Power washer w 15* nozzle pretty much didn't budge it. If I got close and let it scour a spot it would move a little of it but then I'm risking damage to plastics. Best method so far was to scrape it with my old plastic driver's license but that was really slow going and will take me days and I'll never get in the crooks a crannies inside of the wheel wells.
Not really wanting to use solvent of any kind - been there, done that to another car and marred plastic cladding.
Not really wanting to use solvent of any kind - been there, done that to another car and marred plastic cladding.
That’s pretty bad then. Sice you’re concerned with plastics, wd-40 will not destoy most modern vehicle plastics (polypropylene, polyurethane, pvc, etc). You could test on a small spot on the inner fender or somewhere to test reactivity. I have a feeling though that WD-40 won’t work if 15° nozzle at 3k+ psi didn’t budge anything. (i’m assuming 3k)
Timj
New Member
- Joined
- Oct 5, 2021
- Messages
- 3
- Reaction score
- 3
I have been in an automotive chip and scratch repair for over 30 years. This is an issue that I run into on a regular basis. If the road paint has had a chance to set up for several weeks it can be a real challenge to remove. When it is on the plastic wheel wells there is not an effective way to remove it without damaging the plastic. Your best option is to clean the plastic with 70 to 90% alcohol and then spray it with either satin or semi-gloss black enamel spray paint, or Sem black bumper paint. On the painted surface or Chrome you can use acrylic lacquer thinner (not paint thinner or mineral spirits) and a soaked rag, your fingernails or if you're careful you can use a plastic razor blade. Keep the surface wet with lacquer thinner. You must to be very careful because the paint will scratch very easily during the removal. If you get scratches you may need to wet sand or buff. I would not recommend using a power washer because the strength that is needed to remove the paint can actually damage or remove the factory paint. Many years ago I actually used easy off oven cleaner on factory paint to remove Road paint. Do not leave oven cleaner on your vehicle for a very long period of time it will etch the paint. If you would try this option make sure you check and or test in a hidden area of the paint in case it would damage the finish. Do not use oven cleaner on anything plastic it will damage it. Do not use any of these options on a repainted finish only with factory original paint. Careful when you're trying to remove road paint from your wheels as they are not as durable as the factory paint finish of the vehicle.
Last edited:
ferraiolo1
Spends too much time on here
Go to a car wash with a hot pressure washer and keep at it. It will come off. Then the minor stuff use a clay bar. Just went though it
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Op here. Turns out my insurance will pay for the repairs and I have appointment at local body shop for estimate/scheduling early November.
I'm not really worried about the outward-facing surfaces; the body, chrome, and even the trim and running boards. Those parts it will come off with some water and light scraping using something flexible and plastic - like an old credit card or a disposable putty knife from HD. Just not sure whether I am going to do that work, and assume risk myself of doing further damage, or just leaving it all as-is for the body shop.
I don't think the wheel well liners will be easily fixed, however, and might require replacement, especially on the passenger side where the (white) paint is very bad.
I'm not really worried about the outward-facing surfaces; the body, chrome, and even the trim and running boards. Those parts it will come off with some water and light scraping using something flexible and plastic - like an old credit card or a disposable putty knife from HD. Just not sure whether I am going to do that work, and assume risk myself of doing further damage, or just leaving it all as-is for the body shop.
I don't think the wheel well liners will be easily fixed, however, and might require replacement, especially on the passenger side where the (white) paint is very bad.
If insurance is doing it, then you’re most likely getting new ones, and probably aftermarket ones (like keystone) if they have their way. It’s all about the bottom line for insurance companies. If it saves them five dollars, then they will replace it over paying labor to repair the old parts.
cervelo15
Well-Known Member
I saw these guys heading in a fleet of trucks actively spraying lines on the local route 309 around here....steered way clear of them, learned my lesson from past experiences. +1 for clay bar, they sell difference levels of aggressiveness, so for the plastic the most aggressive might help. But I think some of the plastic is textured, so it would almost be like sliding it across a cheese grater. Did you also try a Mr Clean cleaning pad? I've used those on paint in the house to get dirt, hand prints off and it works. I know is has light abrasives on it, wouldnt use it on the paint.
I hear you. I never had a clue I was driving on wet paint. No signs, no cones, no warning. I was on a winding rural state road in bumper to bumper traffic for two miles, when I finally got to the intersection there were the Penndot trucks along side of the road - I knew right then I had a mess. The road is also a mess, tire tracks all over for miles and miles. Only in Pennsyltucky...
ferraiolo1
Spends too much time on here
And don’t even bother trying to use the state hotline for damages. I spent a month going back and fourth with those morons, had pics, diagrams as to why i had to cross a dotted line they were painting.
And in the end they told me to turn it into my insurance.
Pendot is the worst.
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And in the end they told me to turn it into my insurance.
Pendot is the worst.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
cervelo15
Well-Known Member
Yeah I just happened to come across this convoy of trucks heading northbound and I saw the one actively painting, so I made absolutely sure not to traverse any of the lines. Around here, you can tell when they just painted, the lines are so bad in some places the fresh paint sticks out. I've had experience with getting this stuff off my bike downtube as well, it's a pain in the rear.
cervelo15
Well-Known Member
They sure are! Another gripe I have is the chipsealing of roads. Inexpensive way to seal road cracks. What i dont understand is cheaping out on actually fixing the road while they're spending money on nonsensical things. I think that might be localized to townships doing that and not necessarily Penndot.
I hate the tar and chip with a passion. They do that all over the place here in Berks county Pa.
HEMIJAKE
Ram Guru
Pave a brand new road, and then chip seal it 2 years later. I hate it.
I'm in Berks also. Our Twp does a lot of "oil and chips" so one time I stopped at the main office to ask why it's done. Was told it is best way to extend the life of the road by adding a sacrificial "wear layer" on top that basically gives way to winter snow plowing and if they didn't chip these rural roads would wear down much more quickly.
Was told the same by my insurance agent. Said PennDot has a third party handling the program and that the two orgs will jerk me around for months asking for all kinds of stuff then will likely never hear a thing. Only in Pennsyltucky.
