ProjectsInMotion
Active Member
- Joined
- Feb 3, 2022
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I recently noticed that lights in my passenger side Rambox weren't working. I diagnosed the issue: the garbage quality switch allowed the entire length of wire from the switch to the first connector inside the Rambox hatch to corrode, with that wire eventually breaking at the first connector
Ultimately, the problem is the fact that the back of the switch is exposed to the elements and has no protection from dust or water ingress. Only the front of the switch is protected. Put simply, these are the wrong switches for the application. Look at the back of the switch where the load wire (yellow) is connected: there is no protection from the elements at all, the insulation ends outside of the body of the switch. Even if the insulation ended inside the body, the opening in the body for the wire is larger than the wire and insulation, and will still allow dust and water ingress
The correct switch for the application would be one with an IP67 rating for the front and back. I picked the NKK WT11L for the replacement units. These switches are toggle switches, if you want pushbutton switches like the factory ones, look for the NKK WB12L. Note the "L" in the part numbers, it denotes that the switches come with wire leads attached which is the only variety of each switch that has an IP67 rating for the front and back. These switches have bodies that are much larger than the factory switches but they still fit just fine.
Even though only the passenger's side switch failed, I replaced the switches on both sides. This is the driver's side Rambox wiring with the new switch wired in
This is a closer view of the switch body. Note how the body of the switch is completely sealed
This is the front of the switch.
The toggle still allows more than enough movement for the 120V outlet cover
It took about an hour per side to replace the switches and the switches themselves were about $25 + tax and shipping each. That's considerably more expensive than factory replacements but I'm confident that these switches and their associated wiring won't fail.
Cheers
Ultimately, the problem is the fact that the back of the switch is exposed to the elements and has no protection from dust or water ingress. Only the front of the switch is protected. Put simply, these are the wrong switches for the application. Look at the back of the switch where the load wire (yellow) is connected: there is no protection from the elements at all, the insulation ends outside of the body of the switch. Even if the insulation ended inside the body, the opening in the body for the wire is larger than the wire and insulation, and will still allow dust and water ingress
The correct switch for the application would be one with an IP67 rating for the front and back. I picked the NKK WT11L for the replacement units. These switches are toggle switches, if you want pushbutton switches like the factory ones, look for the NKK WB12L. Note the "L" in the part numbers, it denotes that the switches come with wire leads attached which is the only variety of each switch that has an IP67 rating for the front and back. These switches have bodies that are much larger than the factory switches but they still fit just fine.
Even though only the passenger's side switch failed, I replaced the switches on both sides. This is the driver's side Rambox wiring with the new switch wired in
This is a closer view of the switch body. Note how the body of the switch is completely sealed
This is the front of the switch.
The toggle still allows more than enough movement for the 120V outlet cover
It took about an hour per side to replace the switches and the switches themselves were about $25 + tax and shipping each. That's considerably more expensive than factory replacements but I'm confident that these switches and their associated wiring won't fail.
Cheers
