Rear Track Bar Adjustment - Suspension Lean

[LaxDfns15]

So before I dive more into my rear suspension than I already have (or take it to a dealer), I wanted to ask. My issue is that my rear passenger side is 3/4" higher than driver when measure at the wheel well and 1/2" higher when measured at bump stops. A full tank of gas affects it at most 1/4" (tested with 15 miles left and at full). I would be fine with 1/4" of difference, but the 3/4" is very noticeable.

So far I've taken the springs out, compared and, measured them. They were both the same part number and same height of 20.5". Just for kicks I swapped them to make sure it wasn't an issue with spring rate. Nothing changed when I reinstalled everything and jumped on the tailgate a few times to settle the suspension.

My next question before I start messing with it. Is the track bar adjustable in any way? I've tried to find info on it, but all I can find is stuff on aftermarket adjustable ones. Could this be causing the suspension to torque over? I am new to Ram and especially new to not having leaf springs on a truck, so this rear suspension has me stumped.

 

[LaxDfns15]

Bump. Anyone messed with what looks like some sort of stop on the stock track bar? I know I'm not the only one that has different rear heights on the suspension. Guess I can be the first, though.

 

[LaxDfns15]

Bumping this for others' sake if they have different rear suspension heights. Yesterday I adjusted that lever on the axle side of the track bar. It would not allow the passenger side to drop anymore, so I lifted the driver side, which seems to have dropped the passenger side (makes sense). Here's what I did:

1. Measure rear driver wheel well height from ground
2. Remove rear driver wheel
3. Support axle with jack stand and lower frame until wheel well height is equal to measurement from step 1
4. Loosen nut holding track bar to axle to where you can move that lock lever
5. Jack frame up to "lift" the driver suspension. I raised it about 1/2"
6. Make sure that lever is against the bracket on the axle and tighten the nut back down. Not exact torque values, but I tightened the sh*t out of it.
7. Replace rear wheel
8. Jump on rear bumper on both sides, rock the truck, do what you need to do to settle the suspension
9. Measure rear wheel well heights. Your passenger side should have dropped some and driver should have raised

After this I drove around, dropped it off some curbs, ran some errands where there were speed bumps, tried to settle the suspension as much as possible.

Before measurements with about 1/4 tank of gas
Front: 39.75"
Rear Driver: 39.75"
Rear Passenger: 40.5"

After measurements with full gas tank and sitting for the night
Front: 39.75"
Rear Driver: ~40 1/8"
Rear Passenger: ~40 1/8"

To say I'm happy would be an understatement. I'll continue to monitor to make sure it doesn't revert to the old numbers, but for a 20 minute adjustment and not having to go to the dealer I'm satisfied.

 

[Mother]

Interesting. Are there rubber bushings at the connection points? I wonder if they are getting tightened with an improper load (too little or too much) on them at the factory causing a pre-load condition similar to what happens if you fully tighten some other suspension components at full droop when they should be tightened under load.

Is it really necessary to lift the whole truck and remove the wheel? Could you just loosen the connection point, then jack it up via the frame to get everything straight and re-tighten it?

 

[LaxDfns15]

Interesting. Are there rubber bushings at the connection points? I wonder if they are getting tightened with an improper load (too little or too much) on them at the factory causing a pre-load condition similar to what happens if you fully tighten some other suspension components at full droop when they should be tightened under load.

Is it really necessary to lift the whole truck and remove the wheel? Could you just loosen the connection point, then jack it up via the frame to get everything straight and re-tighten it?

I'm not sure, but I'm assuming it's just laziness/oversight at the factory when everything was set up/tightened down.

It's not necessary to remove the wheel, I just did that for easy space. With the spare tire and that bracket being somewhat close, I didn't want to spend 20 minutes ratcheting one click at a time. When I tried the other side that's connected to the frame I left the truck on the ground as there's more room over there.

 

[LaxDfns15]

Spoke too soon. Took it on some mild off-roading this evening, and it looks like it's settled back to original. I'll get under it tomorrow to see if it torqued the cam over or if it's something else.

 

[Nails]

Hold up, think I need to reread this.....

 

[Nukegm426]

If it’s what I’m thinking your referring to, the “lock” is just a tab to stop it from spinning so you don’t have to have a backup on the nut when tightening it. Stock tracbar only locates the axle side to side and isn’t adjustable. By preloading it like you did before tightening it you’ll actually make the bushing wear faster. It might be something in the front suspension throwing off the rear, sag in the body mount bushings of the rear... a myriad of things unfortunately

 

[Nails]

Ok, this is not uncommon of a personal issue on this gen or even 4th gens. Ride height is spring only in simple form. Yes oem, aftermarket components installed can change that. Track bar is not for height. there is a max spec difference oem. Hell, it could be slightly loaded from having park brake on, Ect others.

I’ve been there on this. Oddly I stressed out over it and at least for me every time I measure center of wheel to fender it’s even. While still going back and looking at it from rear and saying no it leans. to this day still looks off at times.
Unless I’m missing something. I get it, feel ya. I just don’t want you to fall deep into this to where you lose sight of enjoying it for what it is over all.

 

[Ramtrx]

I’m just going to cut about a half around a link on the springs on passenger side. It will make it a little shorter but without getting an alignment shop to adjust the front to lift it. I heard camber I believe, can fix the lean.

 

[LaxDfns15]

Yeah, I didn't think it'd actually work, and I was really surprised that it did (at least for a bit). It's not only different at the wheel wells, it's 1/2" off at the bump stops. I'm sitting on a set of Timber Grove bags because I don't want to put them on with the lean.

True, no one else notices it. No one else sees it. But I'm the one that sees and drives the truck 99% of the time. I talked to the dealer, and of course they want me to bring it in, but with COVID delays they'll need it "for at least a few days". Trying to avoid that if I can help it if they're just going to cut some off the spring. I can do that at home.

 

[mike_ct]

the lever you "adjusted" is just a place holder for the nut so it doesn't spin or need a wrench when you tighten the bolt.

 

[Nukegm426]

Install the bags, inflate the low side just a hair more than the other side and you can level it how your looking.

Yeah, I didn't think it'd actually work, and I was really surprised that it did (at least for a bit). It's not only different at the wheel wells, it's 1/2" off at the bump stops. I'm sitting on a set of Timber Grove bags because I don't want to put them on with the lean.

True, no one else notices it. No one else sees it. But I'm the one that sees and drives the truck 99% of the time. I talked to the dealer, and of course they want me to bring it in, but with COVID delays they'll need it "for at least a few days". Trying to avoid that if I can help it if they're just going to cut some off the spring. I can do that at home.

 

[LaxDfns15]

Install the bags, inflate the low side just a hair more than the other side and you can level it how your looking.

That was one of my ideas, but I'm going to have them run off 1 air line, so that won't work.

I know this issue isn't uncommon, and it doesn't affect the truck in a significant way, but I personally find it unacceptable. After talking with two dealers over the phone, and their response basically of "Weeellll you'll have to bring it in so we can take a look at it" instead of giving me some type of straight answer I'm not confident on their willingness to fix it. They'll just state it's within spec and move on.

I have some Delrin sheet I was thinking about making some spacers with to test out how much I actually need to achieve what I want, then I could get a piece machined out of aluminum. I also found this that's also tempting 1/2" spacer

 

[Nukegm426]

Running them off one line is actually a bad idea, it can make the suspension so funny things and people have lost control hauling things.

 

[CaptainCJ35]

Someone mentioned it earlier on, but the idea that somethings off at the front of the truck is making more sense. What's a slight difference at the front wheels becomes a much larger difference by the time it gets to the back of the truck.

Seems like you're running out of gremlins to chase in the rear suspension so it's worth looking at other areas.

 

[LaxDfns15]

Running them off one line is actually a bad idea, it can make the suspension so funny things and people have lost control hauling things.

Ran them off one line with no issues before, although it was on a leaf spring suspension.

 

[LaxDfns15]

Someone mentioned it earlier on, but the idea that somethings off at the front of the truck is making more sense. What's a slight difference at the front wheels becomes a much larger difference by the time it gets to the back of the truck.

Seems like you're running out of gremlins to chase in the rear suspension so it's worth looking at other areas.

If the front is equal before a leveling kit with the rear leaning, and it's equal after the leveling kit with the rear still leaning, it stands to reason that the front isn't the issue. I don't doubt that there is something going on outside the springs and/or shocks, but the front causing the rear suspension to essentially twist seems a little extreme.

 

[ZonaRam44]

I measured today and both of my front fender hights are exactly the same. The rear driver's side is just over 2 inches higher, but the rear passenger side is just under 2 3/4 inches higher. I'll need to take a look underneath, but I don't see why that would be the case. If anyone figures it out let us know. I can't unsee it now haha.

 

[LaxDfns15]

I measured today and both of my from fender hights are exactly the same. The rear driver's side is just over 2 inches higher, but the rear passenger side is just under 2 3/4 inches higher. I'll need to take a look underneath, but I don't see why that would be the case. If anyone figures it out let us know. I can't unsee it now haha.

I know! It's driving me insane! I have the driver coil out right now. Going to fab up a 3/8" spacer tomorrow, so I'll keep this thread updated.