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Ram Stereo Amplifiers--How are they different...?

WRH

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I have the base 6 speaker system. I've been told that device under the seat is an amp and I've also been told it it's just a noise cancellation device. Somehow I need to figure out what it is and how to deal with it in order to upgrade my stereo system to awesome. Any help would be appreciated.

Here is a picture of my main harness connector. From pictures I see on the Alpine system, it looks very similar. I have 2 harnesses going into the amp, the Alpine has 3... but since the DSR1 only uses the big harness I think this is where all the important stuff is.

I can't imagine that the 8.5 display is different on any of the speaker builds. I'm thinking it is that amp that is different. I hope this is the case, and a fixed amplitude signal is coming to my amp from different sources (audio, NAV, car warnings, etc) from the radio and this amp is doing some basic DSP to it--taking commands from the data bus and mixing/controlling the tone changes, fade/balance, NAV and Siri commands to front left speaker, etc.

So, I hope what I have is an amp, just a weaker/cheaper version, but it is doing all of that. If so, devices like the DSR1 and the PAC AmpPro will eventually work. If not, dang. The stereo upgrade options are limited. I've been working a lot with the folks at Maestro and Rockford Fosgate without a lot of luck. They don't seem to be interested in making their product work for this build. I've been told to just go to Universal mode. But I think all the data is there and I think it's possible and will work tons better in the Maestro mode. I just need some more info to back up my suspicions...

Any pics, schematics (especially schematics for that harness!), expert input, or total off the wall speculation is appreciated!
 

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EJanx07

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I have the base 6 speaker system. I've been told that device under the seat is an amp and I've also been told it it's just a noise cancellation device. Somehow I need to figure out what it is and how to deal with it in order to upgrade my stereo system to awesome. Any help would be appreciated.

Here is a picture of my main harness connector. From pictures I see on the Alpine system, it looks very similar. I have 2 harnesses going into the amp, the Alpine has 3... but since the DSR1 only uses the big harness I think this is where all the important stuff is.

I can't imagine that the 8.5 display is different on any of the speaker builds. I'm thinking it is that amp that is different. I hope this is the case, and a fixed amplitude signal is coming to my amp from different sources (audio, NAV, car warnings, etc) from the radio and this amp is doing some basic DSP to it--taking commands from the data bus and mixing/controlling the tone changes, fade/balance, NAV and Siri commands to front left speaker, etc.

So, I hope what I have is an amp, just a weaker/cheaper version, but it is doing all of that. If so, devices like the DSR1 and the PAC AmpPro will eventually work. If not, dang. The stereo upgrade options are limited. I've been working a lot with the folks at Maestro and Rockford Fosgate without a lot of luck. They don't seem to be interested in making their product work for this build. I've been told to just go to Universal mode. But I think all the data is there and I think it's possible and will work tons better in the Maestro mode. I just need some more info to back up my suspicions...

Any pics, schematics (especially schematics for that harness!), expert input, or total off the wall speculation is appreciated!
Any status updates you can share?
 

KRField

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The ACH4 (I believe that’s the name) harness works so you don’t have to hack factory connections. As far as the module under your seat, that is more of a factory DSP. It is processor for the ANC system. It is not for power amplification to the speakers.


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So the ACH4 harness will work at the white connector plugging into the module under the driver seat?

I’ve already disconnected the 4+ wires for ANC since it went wild after installing both front & rear door & dash speakers. I’m guessing it’s due to the polarity being swapped after using the Metra harnesses. After checking, I found both driver side speakers were wired in - polarity. After using Metra harness on the right side, I was at + polarity.

Now I have all 6 speakers replaced and ANC disconnected. I have an Alpine Kappa K5 I’m wanting to install but I’m unsure of the correct way to go about it.

I have already ripped out the back seats and applied sound barrier to back wall. Same thing for every door panel I took off.

Just need to figure out how to proceed. Any suggestions?


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wildh24

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The Ach4 plugs in behind the head unit. It's not hard to do. Two screws on the top of the dash and pull it straight out. Unplug the connectors. You'll then see another module that looks like an amp (I don't know if that's what it is) screwed to dash. Remove the screws and behind it is where you'll find where the ach4 harness plugs in. You can push the Ach4 harness down through a gap on the bottom left and access it from under the driver side foot well. That's where I keep it and RCAs tied from there. It works great.
 
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WRH

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The Ach4 plugs in behind the head unit. It's not hard to do. Two screws on the top of the dash and pull it straight out. Unplug the connectors. You'll then see another module that looks like an amp (I don't know if that's what it is) screwed to dash. Remove the screws and behind it is where you'll find where the ach4 harness plugs in. You can push the Ach4 harness down through a gap on the bottom left and access it from under the driver side foot well. That's where I keep it and RCAs tied from there. It works great.
Yup. I mounted my DSP where that ANC was located. You could put an amp there too if you wanted, I put mine behind the back passenger seat. I'd love to know how your noise dampening project went! What you used, etc... especially if you took any pics along the way!
 
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So is the DSP required for aftermarket amplifiers on this truck? Or just a matter of preference and sound eq tuning.....

I bought the 36 sq ft of Noico 80 mil from Amazon based on pricing and reviews. Stuff is super easy to work with it just takes FOREVER to apply correctly in all the doors and back on the rear cabin wall behind back seats.

The insert in the doors is rubber sealed but nothing else. Ton of plastic in there too. Sound quality out of doors is great so far with no rattling. I’m glad I ripped the back seats out and applied to rear cabin wall as there is absolutely nothing back there from the factory. I still have quite a bit left after the doors and cabin wall. I plan to apply under carpeting throughout once I get this amp installed before the addition of a subwoofer.

Still tossing ideas trying to figure out the best/cleanest route to go with. Not trying to spend another $250+ on a DSP if it’s not required. My Infinity K5 amp is supposed to have built in crossovers and sound processing. So I’m confused as to the addition of another DSP.


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wildh24

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You don't need a DSP. Unless you really want to tweek things. Are you just running the amp to a sub or to other channels? If it's just a sub, then of course you just need to get a signal to it.
 
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Yeah it’s a 5 channel amp I planned to send to the kickers I installed in doors and dash. Once I get this figured out and hooked up I will then figure out the sub box/location and run to it as well.

Appreciate the insight. I was assuming that was the case and It didn’t require the DSP, just wanted to make sure I wasn’t missing something.


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wildh24

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I use the PAC Amppro to get the signal only because I didn't want to use a LOC. I'm only feeding the sub channel and running the rest off factory amp. Only additional feature it has is there ability to defeat the factory EQ for the sub channel which is nice. Then I can just use the volume control knob for the sub and the EQ doesn't mess with sub bass. The factory EQ then essentially allows me to control bass from the 6x9s.
 

chithead

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So, just to understand correctly... you plug the PAC AmpPro AP4-CH41 behind the Uconnect screen, it provides the clean RCA outputs (or optical if you purchase the additional APA-TOS1 add-on piece) - but you still have to block signal from the ANC and factory speakers, correct? Which you can do by purchasing the PAC APH-CH01 harness - and keeping the speaker wires disconnected. That way no factory wiring is cut, spliced, or fudged up in any way?
 

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