Questions on camper size and gearing

[Redwings1391]

Ive got a 3.21 and looking to upgrade to a bigger camper. Looking at a 7500# camper dry weight. From what I'm seeing it says max towing is 8200??? seems kinda a big jump from the 3.92 which pull over 11,000. i do have a intake, tuner, and air lift 5000 air bags on the rear. Will this new camper be to much for this truck?

 

[Willwork4truck]

What kind of terrain do you anticipate towing over? How many trips? Can you keep your trailer as lightly laden as possible (near empty tanks and propane)?

While in general the 3.92 gears would have been a much better choice, people tow at or above their gcvwr often. (Reality)
Tuners aren't really your friend when towing, so slow down,. Don't think that your air bags do anything to increase payload (they just level out) and strongly consider an appropriately fitted WD hitch system. This will help not only your tongue weight, but also handling and steering/braking. I cannot overemphasize the WD hitch issue enough for you.

Otherwise, anticipate slower starts, and you'll want to monitor transmission temps (be sure to lock out 8th) as well as engine temps. Consider changing tranny fluid more often, as well as coolant. Go to a CAT scale and weigh each axle separately, and then make WD bar and load adjustments needed.

Lastly, go to an RV forum to get your dose of "You'll kill yourself and everyone else on the road" and "To tow that much weight you need a 3500 drw..."

 

[Redwings1391]

I’ve got a wd hitch set up. I was thinking the biggest issues was acceleration so by adding the torque from the tuner and intake would help that a little. Aside from gearing there is no difference in other parts on the trucks, they make the same camper style I want only in a 5th wheel. Would that be better because your getting the weight on the truck?

 

[Willwork4truck]

I’ve got a wd hitch set up. I was thinking the biggest issues was acceleration so by adding the torque from the tuner and intake would help that a little. Aside from gearing there is no difference in other parts on the trucks, they make the same camper style I want only in a 5th wheel. Would that be better because your getting the weight on the truck?

IMHO no. pin weight is normally high on a 5th wheel vs hitch weight on a TT.
RAM's have low payload capacity as it is. I think you'll find it's generally accepted that 5th wheel pin weights are harder for 1/2T trucks to handle, so 20% of 8K would be 1600 pounds, excessive for your 1500.
You may get differing opinions of course however a search and reading on RV TT or 5th wheel forums on "Can my truck tow this?" threads will give you an idea.
Quote below:
"A basic rule to go by is that the tongue weight of a 5th wheel trailer is about 20 percent of the gross trailer weight."
What Percent of a 5th Wheel Trailer King Pin Should be the Tongue ..."
https://www.etrailer.com/question-105598.html

 

[2wd]

Regardless of gearing, 8-9K is probably the max you want to do with these 1500's for any long distances.

I recently towed a camper that was approx 8K lbs. Accelerating and stopping was excellent (this is where the gearing can matter). All fluid temps stayed within unloaded operating ranges (also where the gearing could help). The trailer was a 2019 Alpha Wolf by forest river if you want to look it up (triple bunk beds w/queen floorplan).

I have pretty high payload and was probably maxed out with this load. Any more weight than this (or my trailer on a truck in the 1200-1400 range) you'll be overloaded, squatting quite a bit, etc. And this has nothing to do with the gearing.

 

[Willwork4truck]

That's what the OP needs, real world experiences. Thank you.

 

[Redwings1391]

Thanks, I’m looking at a 2019 keystone hideout , dry weight is just under 7500

 

[devildodge]

GCWR is 13900 with 3.21 and 17000 with 3.92. Hence the roughly 3000 lb drop in towing.

These trucks will tow right with a 2500, but the 2500 can haul stuff too.

Terrain and patience will have more of an effect than anything.

 

[Willwork4truck]

GCWR is 13900 with 3.21 and 17000 with 3.92. Hence the roughly 3000 lb drop in towing.

These trucks will tow right with a 2500, but the 2500 can haul stuff too.

Terrain and patience will have more of an effect than anything.

Wayyy back in the day, when the family truck was a 69' F250 with a 390 4 barrel, we routinely hauled 4 horses in a 6 horse trailer, with hay and gear. I don't know the empty weight of the trailer or the trucks rear end ratio (I suspect 3.73 to 4.10's) but it wasn't an aluminum trailer (almost nothing was back then) so figure 3-4K for just the empty trailer easy.
Then add 4 horses all running 1500-2000# = appx 7K. Then hay and tack/gear comprising another 500#. The camper shell was loaded with water, other items and the truck had at least 2 people, sometimes 3, so another 500#.
So the loaded trailer had to be north of 11.5-12K. All this being pulled with a Reese WD hitch and a 390 engine/ C6 tranny. The 390 specs for that year range are: 8.6:1 compression, 255 horsepower at 4400 rpm and 376 lb⋅ft torque at 2600 rpm.
Compare those numbers with your flavor of hemi. You will see that you now have lots more HP and some additional Tq. If the very old school Ford towed that rig for years without protest (just not fast), then your new hemi, even with 3.21's, should be fine (mainly due to the excellent 8 spd).

 

[Tim B]

Ive got a 3.21 and looking to upgrade to a bigger camper. Looking at a 7500# camper dry weight. From what I'm seeing it says max towing is 8200??? seems kinda a big jump from the 3.92 which pull over 11,000. i do have a intake, tuner, and air lift 5000 air bags on the rear. Will this new camper be to much for this truck?

Your truck payload/rear axle GWR will mostly be the limiting factor. Check the tongue weight of the trailer, then add equipment and cargo you'll carry in the truck bed, propane etc. I have a 5500# TT w/tongue weight 752 when I loaded everything I wanted to carry I weighed it at a CAT scale and my rear axle weight was 4160 with a rear axle GWR 3900#. Rethinking cargo now!

 

[foneguy]

Thanks, I’m looking at a 2019 keystone hideout , dry weight is just under 7500

remember those key words DRY WEIGHT.
that means no ac unit no awning no cargo of any kind.
you need to look at the gross weight of the coach which adds all the “stuff” that 7500l lbs will be around 9500 lbs. which means overloaded truck.
been doing campers for over 25years

 

[Willwork4truck]

remember those key words DRY WEIGHT.
that means no ac unit no awning no cargo of any kind.
you need to look at the gross weight of the coach which adds all the “stuff” that 7500l lbs will be around 9500 lbs. which means overloaded truck.
been doing campers for over 25years

Most dry weights are w/o any options, to include batteriy(ies), propane fill, all fluids, things like solar etc not to mention all the crap, I mean things you bring along...
Wet weights include options (those from factory or dealer) as well as the full propane tanks and the fluids (water). Then there's the much used 1K of contents, which will vary from person to person, some people carry more, some less.
When I camped, the trailer got heavier as the trip went due to the kids bringing home souvenirs like rocks, other misc things. At the end of a trip I'd usually be 100-300# heavier than when I left... That was always a headscratcher! If there was not a dump site then I had to haul all that grey and black water close to home to dump.

 

[bennekm]

I have a 2019 sporttrek 32 TT that is advertised 7250 dry. But that means nothing. The sticker on the trailer is actually over 8600 lbs and that is what your truck needs to be able to pull. All that being said, the bigger constraint imo is the payload. I have a limited with the 3.92 which I bought because of >11k towing capacity. But a travel trailer typically has 10-15% hitch weight. Mine is 900 dry! With propane full and trailer loaded it’s probably closer to 1100. My payload sticker is 1419. That leaves 319lbs for people, gear in the truck and your hitch (which could be 50+ lbs), assuming you haven’t added anything else like a tonneau or other weight adding options. This is what you have to calculate. These trucks can’t pull nearly what they advertise. I wish I knew all of this prior to buying. I would have bought a 3/4 to a 1 ton instead.

 

[Willwork4truck]

Ahh, the perennial issue. I want a nice ride (1500) vs the stiff and less mpg 2500/3500... Every forum has this debate, every truck maker says their 150/1500's can pull/tow more every year...
While I am a "get more truck than you need you won't regret it" type, reality is most buyers won't do that due to financial or comfort restraints.

How much/how often and over what terrain will you tow? Once you spend some mod money "helping" your suspension out (nothing increases legal payload), you may find that the heavy trailer still pulls ok and you are not lighting up the clouds at night with your headlights. A well dialed in WDH with proper tires (E) at the proper inflation pressure, and driven sanely (speed and lane switching), and you should be ok.

Now if you want a differing opinion, go post over on the rv trailer forums and prepare to be blasted by the "weight police". This discussion will never be solved to each side's satisfaction.

Do what you believe to be safe after you have researched it and taken some measures/mods to ensure your family's safety. Any much bigger than what you are pulling is certainly 2500 territory but can you pull it a few times a year at reasonable speeds? Yes. Will you want more truck in some conditions (wind, long grades) yes. Can you afford to upgrade? Only you know...

 

[bennekm]

Ahh, the perennial issue. I want a nice ride (1500) vs the stiff and less mpg 2500/3500... Every forum has this debate, every truck maker says their 150/1500's can pull/tow more every year...
While I am a "get more truck than you need you won't regret it" type, reality is most buyers won't do that due to financial or comfort restraints.

How much/how often and over what terrain will you tow? Once you spend some mod money "helping" your suspension out (nothing increases legal payload), you may find that the heavy trailer still pulls ok and you are not lighting up the clouds at night with your headlights. A well dialed in WDH with proper tires (E) at the proper inflation pressure, and driven sanely (speed and lane switching), and you should be ok.

Now if you want a differing opinion, go post over on the rv trailer forums and prepare to be blasted by the "weight police". This discussion will never be solved to each side's satisfaction.

Do what you believe to be safe after you have researched it and taken some measures/mods to ensure your family's safety. Any much bigger than what you are pulling is certainly 2500 territory but can you pull it a few times a year at reasonable speeds? Yes. Will you want more truck in some conditions (wind, long grades) yes. Can you afford to upgrade? Only you know...

Agree....for shorter infrequent drives, a 1500 is ok @ 8000 lbs, but the 2500 gas isn't much more expensive and provides significantly more capacity (the 2500 diesel does not because of weight). However, the 2500/3500 cab configurations are horrible. A smaller cab which looks like a super vs. a crew or the ugly mega cab which still doesn't look like it has the leg room of a new DT. I don't get it, the lack of the panoramic sunroof, plus the old steering wheel in the 2500/3500. Ford puts panoramic in it's super duties. Ram could have done better with the 2500/3500's. Also they need a larger gas engine to compete with the new ford 7.3L!

 

[Willwork4truck]

Yes the new 2 valve (old school) pushrod gives heavy towers a lot of advantages over spending lots for the powerstroke, the new motor has good power:
“DEARBORN, Mich., Aug. 1, 2019 – Ford F-Series, America’s best-selling truck for 42 years, is once again raising the bar for capability with its all-new 7.3-liter V8 gasoline engine. The 7.3-liter engine in Super Duty pickup cranks out best-in-class gas V8 output of 430 horsepower at 5,500 rpm and best-in-class torque of 475 ft.-lb. at 4,000 rpm.”

 

[barr0208]

Your truck payload/rear axle GWR will mostly be the limiting factor. Check the tongue weight of the trailer, then add equipment and cargo you'll carry in the truck bed, propane etc. I have a 5500# TT w/tongue weight 752 when I loaded everything I wanted to carry I weighed it at a CAT scale and my rear axle weight was 4160 with a rear axle GWR 3900#. Rethinking cargo now! I don't know about your but mine has a 4100 rear axle weight so 60 lbs over would not be excessive.

 

[raven_DT]

Yes the new 2 valve (old school) pushrod gives heavy towers a lot of advantages over spending lots for the powerstroke, the new motor has good power:
“DEARBORN, Mich., Aug. 1, 2019 – Ford F-Series, America’s best-selling truck for 42 years, is once again raising the bar for capability with its all-new 7.3-liter V8 gasoline engine. The 7.3-liter engine in Super Duty pickup cranks out best-in-class gas V8 output of 430 horsepower at 5,500 rpm and best-in-class torque of 475 ft.-lb. at 4,000 rpm.”

More importantly, the the torque curve is flat with 400+ ft-lbs available at 1500 rpm. The 7.3 should be a very good truck towing/rv application (replacing the v10)/commercial engine. Sign me up for a Cummins 6.7 any day though...