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QTP Electrical Exhaust Cutout Thoughts?

ksneubec

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(I tried searching for anything on this but didn't find any threads- please re-direct me if this has been discussed)

On a Ram Rebel Facebook page I saw a member with a QTP Electrical Exhaust Cutout. He loves the sound, and the videos posted on the manufacturer's website sound great too. I'm wondering if anyone has any experience with these and specifically, if they'll hold up to the corrosion provided by New England winters. Any feedback is appreciated.

 
There is a back story, but I’ll leave out. I had these in my Camaro about 10 years ago. Lasted about 6 months. Started to leak. They replaced them and about 6 months later it happened again. Hissing. Not closing completely. Sounded horrible. Could never get them to replace again. So I closed them up permanently.


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I had QTPs on a Jeep, the motor stopped working on one, got a replacement. Installed the replacement and a few months after that, one wouldn't open, apparently the motor worked itself out and ripped itself out of the wiring harness and disappeared on the road somewhere. There is also an exhaust company that used them in their exhausts, had an issue with them in there too. So yes they sound great but I've had my share of issues with them.
 
I installed the qtp aggressor about a month ago. No issues thus far. Got the wireless piece so I use the homelink buttons for control
 
There is a back story, but I’ll leave out. I had these in my Camaro about 10 years ago. Lasted about 6 months. Started to leak. They replaced them and about 6 months later it happened again. Hissing. Not closing completely. Sounded horrible. Could never get them to replace again. So I closed them up permanently.


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I had the same type of issues as above on the right bank exhaust on my mustang. The left one never had an issue. I had them on for about 5 months and sold the car.
 
That style of valve will rattle as soon as the actuator strips the coupling. In my experience we tried everything, up to and including, having a welder spot weld the coupler in place. The actuators are junk and when you go WOT you're generating so much heat that eventually the cheap components just fail. After going through multiple failures, it just wasn't worth it in the end.

If you can find it, there's a blast gate style of valve that rotates a solid plate in and out of the airstream. This would be a much better valve/actuator setup, but it's not cheap.
 
Back in my Corvette days, nothing but issues with them going flakey after a short time and not fully opening / closing. I would just get a cat back exhaust instead of doing cut outs.
 
Thanks for all the feedback. I think for now I will avoid them.
 

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