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Proximity alarm horn did not turn off

Minnie Pearl

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Anyone have proximity sensor or horn issues? Well today (8/15/22) in the Bryan, Wal Mart parking lot handicap spot (the first time I drove truck and only 4 miles from when I got it back on 8/1) as I pulled up to the sign post, the dash proximity display came on, the yellow, then red proximity sensor lights and alarm horn activated and stayed on, for the middle and right side sensors until I put the selector in Park. All this is normal as I had parked left of center of the concrete sign post. After shopping, I started the truck and backed out, the yellow and red displays were lite, and the alarm horn was on steady as I backed away. The displays cleared and the horn did too (normal for the distance from the post). The rear blind spot proximity sensors switched on, and a horn sounded, as there was an advancing truck behind me (again, normal). I pulled forward, back into the parking spot, reactivating the front yellow sensors and horn. The truck moved on, and I backed out of the spot again. The yellow displays cleared, but the horn did not. I stopped in the traffic lane and moved the gear shift from Reverse to Drive, & back to Reverse, then to Park, and repeated each move several times – no change, the warning horn still remained on. Inspection of the dash revealed there were no dash warning lights illuminated. I moved the truck out to a ‘clear, flat & open’ area of the parking lot, and tried these and additional efforts again. Adding such things as; radio off, front & rear proximity sensor switches off, parking brake on/off, AC off, transmission in Park, turning engine off (horn still on) only when I opened the door did the horn silence. However, when I closed the door and restarted the engine, the warning horn (without any sensor lights displayed) came on again. Every attempt to silence the horn failed and the horn stayed on for well over 20 minutes as I drove home, contacted the dealership, and performed troubleshooting techniques suggested by 'John', who could hear the horn blaring over the phone. Troubleshooting was basicly; inspect each sensor for mud and/or bug guts. There was very mild road grime/dust on the rear sensors, no mud or guts on the front. I cycled the power again, the horn was still blaring when I restarted the engine. The fifth time I shut the engine off, and restarted it, the horn cleared. I drove over to my apartment dempster and activated the proximity sensors again. I could not duplicate the fault condition with the warning horn locked on. It was decided by 'John', it would be non-productive to bring the vehicle in, since the proximity sensors were no longer malfunctioning. I am also having other ‘proximity sensor issues’, like picking up vehicles not in my lane on the highway which is affecting the ACC function and following distance. Also alarms for dips, curbs and weeds occur at weird times but not every time for the same obstacle. Those issues had not been there originally (August 2020 to Jan 2021), and now they seem to be getting worse. The original issues were not addressed on the July 25th service ticket, even though I spoke to the service writer, and proximity sensor issues were on the list of issues emailed him.
 

Minnie Pearl

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This might sound weird but is your battery good ?
Funny you should ask Fatherof3 ..... I have battled with 3 dealerships over 24 months on the recurring (11+), intermittent, unpredictable dead battery issues that started 5 days after I purchased the truck which had been 'on the lot' for a year, and before I had my handicap equipment installed. Each event (that wasn't time sensitive) has been dealt with by taking to the dealer, testing the battery, charging the battery, retesting the battery and pronouncing it "good". They blame the dead battery on my non-OEM handicap equipment, yet my installer and equipment manufacture say the parasitic draw is only 0.8 mA/hour. The stock OEM battery is rated at 80 amp hr. which calculates to 100,000 hours of draw at 0.8 mA.
 

Bpebler

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With so many intermittent electrical issues that you’ve been having Minnie, I’d almost consider asking your installer/equipment manufacturer if adding a secondary battery for your setup is possible. Hard to tell if it’s just not wired correctly or if it is and just backfeeding the system somewhere or something. 🤷🏽‍♂️
 

Minnie Pearl

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With so many intermittent electrical issues that you’ve been having Minnie, I’d almost consider asking your installer/equipment manufacturer if adding a secondary battery for your setup is possible. Hard to tell if it’s just not wired correctly or if it is and just backfeeding the system somewhere or something. 🤷🏽‍♂️
When the state buys / installs the handicap equipment, they require an additional battery, but no AUX transfer switch - in 18 years, I only had one case of a weak battery, and I am not sure the secondary battery was any help at all. There are only two hot wires that come directly off the positive battery post thru a fuse to power the equipment. It's hard to mis-wire that. As a problem follow-up; about 4 weeks ago a cool front came through town and killed the OEM battery dead as a hammer, my jump box started the truck, but it died in 5 or 6 minutes of idling after removing the box. I called road service, they came jumped it again, drove it up on their flatbed, and towed it to the dealer 1.7 miles away --- and Wala! This time they put in a new battery. I have driven about 300 miles since, even left it sitting for 8 - 14 days in between driving - and no other issues have cropped up. I have no doubt in my head it was a bad battery caused from sitting on the lot for a year during covid - it just got drained too deeply, for too long, and should have been replaced when it died w/in the first week. It all revolves around the RAM protocol - test the battery, if it fails recharge battery for several hours and retest - Any gear head knows, of course a weak or bad battery with a hot, fresh charge, is going to pass the second immediate test - unless it is toast, because it can't internally discharge fast enough.
 

bucolic

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I have no doubt in my head it was a bad battery caused from sitting on the lot for a year during covid - it just got drained too deeply, for too long, and should have been replaced when it died w/in the first week. It all revolves around the RAM protocol - test the battery, if it fails recharge battery for several hours and retest - Any gear head knows, of course a weak or bad battery with a hot, fresh charge, is going to pass the second immediate test - unless it is toast, because it can't internally discharge fast enough.
This is such a common occurrence on here. The truck is acting funny electronically and it turns out to be a bad battery. Glad they finally got it figured out for you.

I guess Ram has their reasons for the protocols they run and dealers are probably controlled by RAM pretty tightly so the dealers can't deviate. In this case, they would have been way ahead by just replacing the battery and eliminating that as the issue. At $150 an hour labor, they probably got $75 in labor just testing the darn thing. $250 bucks for a top-end battery at retail and you would have been done with one visit.

I know if my truck ever starts acting up like this I am going to save myself a lot of time and trouble and just throw a new battery in and see if the issue resolves. They teach doctors the saying "If you hear hooves think horse, not Zebras." as most of the time the patient has the more common issue and not an exotic disease! A bad battery and its symptoms are pretty well documented.
 

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