Problem with Battery and 12”display

[MarkinPutnamCounty]

2019 1500 Laramie 4WD 5.7 Hemi

My truck has been in the garage and not run for about ten days. I took it for a drive. Started right up and ran great, but no 12” display at all. I tried the resets. None worked. The next day, I went out to drive it again. I thought maybe the radio was doing an update based on some of the threads I found. This time, it’s a no-start. I checked battery voltage with a multimeter and I was at 5.3V. I tried charging in the truck. It didn’t seem to be gaining much, so I pulled it out and charged it on the bench. It chafed up and held 12.7 V. I took it to have it load tested at the auto parts store and they said it appeared to be fine.
I left it on the bench overnight and it still read 12.5 v when I installed it last night. Started the truck right up. It showed 14.5V running and 12.5V shut off, both on the display and with a multimeter test. The 12” screen never came up.
This morning I went to start the truck and nothing. Battery showed 5.3v on the multimeter.
My first thought was battery given that these trucks seem to be rather hard on them, but the battery load tested ok and seemed to hold a charge on the bench.
Any thoughts would be appreciated!
Thanks, Mark

 

[Richard320]

It's the battery. There are countless threads on here with electrical gremlins despite batteries which test good that were finally cured with a new battery. There are also numerous threads mentioning that you can go up one size on the batteries to and H8 no problem, just by popping that plastic spacer out of the battery tray. And if you get a bigger battery and want a battery blanket that fits, the part number is 5033397AE

 

[gpbst3]

Any time a battery over 3 years old gives you ANY type of issue, replace it.

 

[HSKR R/T]

2019 1500 Laramie 4WD 5.7 Hemi

My truck has been in the garage and not run for about ten days. I took it for a drive. Started right up and ran great, but no 12” display at all. I tried the resets. None worked. The next day, I went out to drive it again. I thought maybe the radio was doing an update based on some of the threads I found. This time, it’s a no-start. I checked battery voltage with a multimeter and I was at 5.3V. I tried charging in the truck. It didn’t seem to be gaining much, so I pulled it out and charged it on the bench. It chafed up and held 12.7 V. I took it to have it load tested at the auto parts store and they said it appeared to be fine.
I left it on the bench overnight and it still read 12.5 v when I installed it last night. Started the truck right up. It showed 14.5V running and 12.5V shut off, both on the display and with a multimeter test. The 12” screen never came up.
This morning I went to start the truck and nothing. Battery showed 5.3v on the multimeter.
My first thought was battery given that these trucks seem to be rather hard on them, but the battery load tested ok and seemed to hold a charge on the bench.
Any thoughts would be appreciated!
Thanks, Mark

A fully charged battery in good condition should hold around 13.5v when engine isn't running

 

[Azsmc]

A flooded lead acid or AGM 12 volt battery should be 12.9 volts at full charge when new. This max voltage will slowly drop as part of its normal aging process until it finally becomes to low to be useable or shorts out completely. Heres a table that shows percentage of charge versus voltage. This also applies to AGM batteries.

 

[Mr.Grid]

If you still have a 3 yr old factory battery in your 5th Gen Ram you’ve got the best 3 yrs out of it imho. A 5yr warranty same size replacement at minimum would be a wise choice.

If my truck sits for more than 4 days now in the cold the battery meters below 12.10 v when checked.

My truck is 15 months old and I’m replacing the factory battery at the 2 yr date with a H8 (49) and new battery blanket Mopar (05033397AE) as been suggested in many of the battery threads. It’s a $63K truck. A new, less than $200 battery for me at 2 yrs is cheap insurance.

 

[MarkinPutnamCounty]

It's the battery. There are countless threads on here with electrical gremlins despite batteries which test good that were finally cured with a new battery. There are also numerous threads mentioning that you can go up one size on the batteries to and H8 no problem, just by popping that plastic spacer out of the battery tray. And if you get a bigger battery and want a battery blanket that fits, the part number is 5033397AE

Thank you. I knew I probably wasn’t asking a unique question, but the thing that set mine apart a little for me was the fact that the battery seemed to hold a consistent charge on the bench but dropped overnight connected in the truck. I will replace the battery. Even my old Ecodiesel never needed a battery in the eight years and 130,000 miles it had before I traded it for my 2019.
I do appreciate the response!

 

[MarkinPutnamCounty]

If you still have a 3 yr old factory battery in your 5th Gen Ram you’ve got the best 3 yrs out of it imho. A 5yr warranty same size replacement at minimum would be a wise choice.

If my truck sits for more than 4 days now in the cold the battery meters below 12.10 v when checked.

My truck is 15 months old and I’m replacing the factory battery at the 2 yr date with a H8 (49) and new battery blanket Mopar (05033397AE) as been suggested in many of the battery threads. It’s a $63K truck. A new, less than $200 battery for me at 2 yrs is cheap insurance.

I agree. Thank you.

 

[MarkinPutnamCounty]

If you still have a 3 yr old factory battery in your 5th Gen Ram you’ve got the best 3 yrs out of it imho. A 5yr warranty same size replacement at minimum would be a wise choice.

If my truck sits for more than 4 days now in the cold the battery meters below 12.10 v when checked.

My truck is 15 months old and I’m replacing the factory battery at the 2 yr date with a H8 (49) and new battery blanket Mopar (05033397AE) as been suggested in many of the battery threads. It’s a $63K truck. A new, less than $200 battery for me at 2 yrs is cheap insurance.

Good information. Thank you.

 

[Azsmc]

Living in Arizona, I never let my battery get more than 3 years old. I replace them if summer is coming and its going to be 3 years old. With that said, I’ve never been stranded because of a dead battery. The heat here in Arizona is brutal on battery’s. Especially, as its in the engine compartment where it gets really hot. Battery’s develop lead sulfate that eventually causes battery failure. This is called Sulfation and is the most common reason for battery failures. There not that expensive compared to the problems you face when they fail. Also, if my Truck sits for more than a few days, I always put battery tender on it. If you allow you battery to discharge, it will develop sulfates more quickly, leading to early battery failure. Lead acid batteries don't like to be repeatedly discharged. They like to be kept fully charged all the time.

 

[Av1]

Living in Arizona, I never let my battery get more than 3 years old. I replace them if summer is coming and its going to be 3 years old. With that said, I’ve never been stranded because of a dead battery. The heat here in Arizona is brutal on battery’s. Especially, as its in the engine compartment where it gets really hot. Battery’s develop lead sulfate that eventually causes battery failure. This is called Sulfation and is the most common reason for battery failures. There not that expensive compared to the problems you face when they fail. Also, if my Truck sits for more than a few days, I always put battery tender on it. If you allow you battery to discharge, it will develop sulfates more quickly, leading to early battery failure. Lead acid batteries don't like to be repeatedly discharged. They like to be kept fully charged all the time.

I'm a fan of battery maintainers also. They help keep batteries in great shape.

 

[Lake Ram]

I'm a fan of battery maintainers also. They help keep batteries in great shape.

I just replaced mine. It was 2 years and 3 months old and had 36,000 miles. I too live in Arizona.

 

[MarkinPutnamCounty]

Here is a Monday update. On Saturday, I replaced the OEM battery with a new H8 AGM battery. It was fully charged. The truck started right up and was running fine. Still, no 12” display. It’s black. Nothing. I checked the number 44 10A fuse in the cab and it was fine. Checked for any loose fuses and they were all snug.
I decided to let it sit overnight, maybe finish a software update if there was one going on. Checked it Sunday morning. Dash display lit and I popped the hood to check battery voltage. It was 11.76v about 14 hrs after I had last run it. Seemed a little low, but at least there was still a charge there. I had a lot going on, so I decided to see what would happen if it sat another day. I checked it after lunch today. Dash was dark. Battery voltage at 4.3v.
So, battery is new, but symptoms are identical.
Could I have activated something as I pressed the buttons around the center display trying to get some reaction out of the display? The battery held adequate voltage to start the truck after sitting 10 days. It wasn’t until it was run (and driven over 30 miles) that it lost its charge and failed to start the first time.
Ideas? Thank you!

 

[HSKR R/T]

Here is a Monday update. On Saturday, I replaced the OEM battery with a new H8 AGM battery. It was fully charged. The truck started right up and was running fine. Still, no 12” display. It’s black. Nothing. I checked the number 44 10A fuse in the cab and it was fine. Checked for any loose fuses and they were all snug.
I decided to let it sit overnight, maybe finish a software update if there was one going on. Checked it Sunday morning. Dash display lit and I popped the hood to check battery voltage. It was 11.76v about 14 hrs after I had last run it. Seemed a little low, but at least there was still a charge there. I had a lot going on, so I decided to see what would happen if it sat another day. I checked it after lunch today. Dash was dark. Battery voltage at 4.3v.
So, battery is new, but symptoms are identical.
Could I have activated something as I pressed the buttons around the center display trying to get some reaction out of the display? The battery held adequate voltage to start the truck after sitting 10 days. It wasn’t until it was run (and driven over 30 miles) that it lost its charge and failed to start the first time.
Ideas? Thank you!

If your 12" display still isn't coming in, then there is an issue with it, and is probably what is draining the battery. Definitely need to take it to dealer

 

[Richard320]

If your 12" display still isn't coming in, then there is an issue with it, and is probably what is draining the battery. Definitely need to take it to dealer

I agree. Take it to the dealer.

They'll be able to stick an ammeter on it and unplug things until the draw disappears.

I've tracked down some strange electrical draws. One guy had new seat covers that held the seat elevation button up all the time. So it would strain the seat motor for a while then trip the superheat switch until it cooled off and resumed. Killed his new battery in three days. Others have had a bad diode in the alternator, so current flowed both directions instead of only out.

 

[Av1]

Tracking down parasitic battery drain is not difficult but can be very time consuming.

I agree with the others, take it to the dealer.

 

[kapinallinen2]

New battery got drained overnight, cleaned ground connection on the left fender, next to the hood hinge.
A year later, still good, knock on wood.

 

[MarkinPutnamCounty]

The truck is going to the dealer this afternoon. I appreciate the replies and I will follow up with what they find.