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The Shell Rotella T6 5W-40 oil does not meet Stellantis MS-12991 according to the manual, however that is the oil that my dealership has been using for the HD 6.7L I6 Cummins and the VM Motori V6 3L Ecodiesel, that is the oil that’s been going in my Rebel Ecodiesel. My truck will be getting it’s 3rd oil change soon at 30,000 miles. (45,000km)
IMHO, if the dealer utilizes Rotella for the 2020-2022 Ecodiesel and the engine fails then they are liable for repair/replacement. However, if we (the owners) utilize it and the engine fails, then you can bet FCA will claim we were not utilizing the spec oil.
The cheap filter elements can be found on amazon, and a few here also like using
Dumb question but can you separate the housing from filter? I’ve tried and can’t do it like you could back when these same filters were utilized for the 3.6L. Perhaps I didn’t have enough Wheaties that morning before trying to separate the element from the housing.
I hope it works out as I’ve felt it was a horrendous waste of a good plastic housing.
I’ll contact them and find out.
You’re spot on, the dealer would take the blame for the “wrong oil” that they have been using and suggested for me to use. I’ve purchased several vehicles from my local dealer in the past, but they don’t have enough inventory and they can’t compete with high volume sellers near Toronto, 8 hour drive south for me.
This is an ecodiesel thread.
I just wanted to add something to you comment about the spec oil required for our trucks, I have noticed on the jugs of Pennzoil, Quaker State and others, that they have recently, within a few years added “for gasoline and Diesel engines” and are API SN certified, before the SN it was SM, SL, SG and so on, so if I still had my old 1996 Ram that required API SJ oil, that oil would not be available, it has been replaced with the latest API SN certification, make sense right.
I wonder also about ZDDP with an SN oil (Fram and Quaker State). Fram is just SN, Pennsoil is SP, and Quaker State is SN Plus. Out if those three, I chose Quaker State b/c the SN Plus class is designed for turbo engines.I just wanted to add something to you comment about the spec oil required for our trucks, I have noticed on the jugs of Pennzoil, Quaker State and others, that they have recently, within a few years added “for gasoline and Diesel engines” and are API SN certified, before the SN it was SM, SL, SG and so on, so if I still had my old 1996 Ram that required API SJ oil, that oil would not be available, it has been replaced with the latest API SN certification, make sense right.
Now onto the Diesel engine oil, also API certified but for Diesel engines, the certification always start with the letter C, the older generation was CC, CD, CF… and so on, then they added a number after the letters, the latest is API CK-4 (Shell Rotella T6 5W40) the reasoning is because of the pollution control systems such as the EGR, DPF particulate filters… no more black smoke! That oil is designed for Diesel engines, to counteract against soot, dirt and other contaminants that newer Diesel engines have to handle because of the newer government pollution regulations.
The main reason for my added comment is, you grab a jug of Pennzoil Full Synthetic oil and the jug says “for gasoline and Diesel engines”
Now grab a jug of Diesel oil CK-4 it does not say “for gasoline and Diesel engines” it is specifically made for Diesel engines, why would you pay up to double the price for that oil to put it in a gasoline engine that has no particulate filter, no soot buildup, no diesel fuel dilution that accumulates in the oil…
I would not PUT diesel CK-4 oil in my gasoline engine, it is probably a better oil, I would be wasting money, I am however uncomfortable putting gasoline engine and or Diesel engine SN oil in my Diesel engine, specially after seeing the oil analysis samples when using Pennzoil, the metal numbers should be on par, not worst, I know the metal count is minimal but I really don’t like it when they say “the metal numbers are going down, don’t worry” “keep sending the oil samples” $$$
Time will tell, hopefully I will still have my truck with the same engine when the 6th generation Rams arrive.
This is the first time I hear about ZZDP, I remember, around forty years ago, the new oil additive at that time was called Slick 50, developed in 1978, it was a one time treatment and would last 50,000 miles, they showed a small single cylinder engine, similar to a Briggs & Stratton, a clear engine side plated was added to see the internal parts, they ran the engine with Slick 50, drained all the oil and ran the engine again, you could see the crankshaft and connecting rod moving, how long they ran it for was unknown, their reasoning was that all the parts were coated with the Teflon from the Slick 50. I’m not sure how true that was but it was interesting
ZDDP is pretty much what differentiates diesel oil from oil designed for gas engines, as it’s what was identified as shortening the life of catalytic converters. So you could have two oils from the same manufacturer that are identical with the exception of the ZDDP. Usually that’s paired with higher sulfated ash, but that’s also absent in the MS-12991 spec’d oil.This is the first time I hear about ZZDP, I remember, around forty years ago, the new oil additive at that time was called Slick 50, developed in 1978, it was a one time treatment and would last 50,000 miles, they showed a small single cylinder engine, similar to a Briggs & Stratton, a clear engine side plated was added to see the internal parts, they ran the engine with Slick 50, drained all the oil and ran the engine again, you could see the crankshaft and connecting rod moving, how long they ran it for was unknown, their reasoning was that all the parts were coated with the Teflon from the Slick 50. I’m not sure how true that was but it was interesting
I have never put engine oil supplements in any of my vehicles in my lifetime and never had engine problems. I had one Ram for 15 years, the other Ram for 9 years and a Caravan for 13 years. I had 14 cars/trucks/vans/suvs in my lifetime. I also had many motorcycles starting from a 50 cc Honda with folding handle bars in 1975, 70 cc Honda, 125 cc Kawasaki, 200cc XR Honda, 350 cc Honda XL, 750cc Honda Shadow and a 450cc Honda Foreman 4 wheeler, all with no oil additive, the only one with engine troubles was the 2 stroke Kawasaki.
The only thing I had to add was gas line antifreeze in the early years when my vehicle was carbureted and it would freeze up during
So the ZDDP would not be a good additive because it’s high in zinc.
I’m not sure if you’re asking, but it depends on the quantity of zinc. Rotella has varying amounts of higher zinc content depending on the Rotella type, but the consistent thing is that C Classification oils have higher zinc and ash content than S classification oils.
