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Minimal lift and/or level. Need insight.

Shots

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I read on another thread that the 5th gen Ram can use leveling kits made for the 4th gen. Can anyone confirm this?

I ask because I want to use a strut extension (I've seen it called a top hat spare here) rather than a preload spacer. I've used Auto Spring Corp on multiple trucks and will buy another one of theirs if possible but they don't make anything marketed for the 19+ yet.

I've also read about kits replacing the upper control arms to keep angles in check. I'll do that too if it's needed for a 1.5 - 2.5 kit. Anyone have insight?

FWIW, I'm not new to lifts/levels or truck mods overall. I'm just new to the 5th gen Ram because I sold my 2014 Ram for a Wrangler a few years ago. I missed having a truck so I'm back and starting over again.
 

Jackieee_Ram

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Gen 4 Motofab strut spacer fit on 5th gens. I used it on my 19 when they didn’t offer it for the 19+ but members said it would for and it did.
 

Shots

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Outstanding, thanks.
Do I need to replace the control arms with a 1.5" or 2" kit, or is that for people doing 3" and more?
 

Jackieee_Ram

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You don’t need too but could get the Mopar UCA from there 2” lift kits for around $120 for both of you do decide too

I had a Motofab 2.5” spacer on the 19’ with orp and never had the spring contact the uca that some people experience.
 

Shots

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So I've tried to find it, and don't see anything. Maybe that means there's nothing to find, but I'm asking to make sure.

Aside from the obvious height difference, are there any differences between a 2" and 2.5" level if you use the same method? For example, Motofab has both (as well as a 3").
On my last ram (DS) there were concerns that the half shaft would bind if you went too tall up front which would cause "popping" when you drove. You also mentioned the contact with he UCA's. Is that more likely as you go higher?

I guess the simple question is. Any cons to choosing a 2.5" kit over a 2" kit?
 

Jackieee_Ram

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No driveline vibrations or sounds with the 2.5” spacer on my 19’ when using 4wd. I went with the 2.5” because I wanted it level without rake. Squatted with a trailer or a few hundred pounds of weight in the bed so keep that in mind you you tend to tow or have weight in the bed often
 

Shots

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Outstanding thanks. I just order a Motofab kit. I really appreciate the help.
 

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Lift is installed. I did the 2.5" kit on the front with a 1.5 on the rear to keep a little bit of rake. It's got 0.75" of rake right now, but based on other kits I've done, I suspect it will settle about a 1/4 after the alignment.
I didn't want it sagging when it's loaded so I wanted to keep some rake, and I have a set of airbags I'll be putting on soon to prevent sagging with heavy loads.
 

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21RamBigHornBlk

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Lift is installed. I did the 2.5" kit on the front with a 1.5 on the rear to keep a little bit of rake. It's got 0.75" of rake right now, but based on other kits I've done, I suspect it will settle about a 1/4 after the alignment.
I didn't want it sagging when it's loaded so I wanted to keep some rake, and I have a set of airbags I'll be putting on soon to prevent sagging with heavy loads.
did you start with the ORP springs in the back? I just installed the rough country 2" coilover struts in front and i'm now sitting at 39" and my stock rear without ORP springs is at 38.25" which of course is .75" rake in the WRONG direction..I have the motofab 1.5" spacer to install in the rear this week.
 

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No ORP on mine. The front did come down a bit after the alignment, as I expected, so now I've got the advertised 2.5" of front lift. The back didn't change after alignment, so I've got a little more rake now. I probably could have used a 1" spacer for the back instead of the 1.5" but it's not that big of a difference.

FWIW, although Motofab doesn't mention a spring compressor for the rear spacers they do make it easier to install. It can be done without them, but I've got a set so I used them to take a little tension off the springs which made install of the rear spacer much easier. You don't have to compress them a lot, but if you do about 1.5" of compression the spaced spring goes in just as easy as the stock spring came out. Just something to consider.
 

21RamBigHornBlk

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Thanks for the info. i'm gong to have a local garage do the spacer for me at the same time I get my new wheels and tires mounted and ballanced. I would think with a full garage lift they can just lower the rear axle enough to put the spacer on the perch and reinstall the spring without need to compress.
 

Shots

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Absolutely they can, you're able to do it with the truck on jack stands in your garage/driveway.
Doing the install alone runs you a little short on hands though. When you install it, you need to pull the axle down a bit, and put the space with the spring back on. That makes it a 3 hand job unless you compress the spring a bit. Then you can use one hand for the spring and one for the spacer, no need to pull the axle down.
 

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