5thGenRams Forums

Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!

Melted rambox harness

dforaker79

Member
Joined
Feb 10, 2024
Messages
9
Reaction score
1
Points
3
Age
45
So I replaced all of the rambox wiring and the jumper coming off the bed harness because the drivers side rambox button does not work on my 2020 Longhorn. I found a pretty melted plug and wires for the lock actuator jumper. After changing everything and cleaning up the pins on the existing connectors, it still doesn't work. Anything that can cause this plug to burn and the lock not work? The actuator, lid wiring, and lights are good because I took the lid off and tried it on the other side. There is nothing else wrong with it. I even went checking all the fuses. Everything seems fine.
 

Attachments

  • 20240621_101846.jpg
    20240621_101846.jpg
    136.3 KB · Views: 61
  • 20240621_081716.jpg
    20240621_081716.jpg
    139.7 KB · Views: 61
  • 20240621_082313.jpg
    20240621_082313.jpg
    185.5 KB · Views: 60
This may or may not help. I had a harness in a VW Tail light that melted due to a poor / smaller than needed ground wire. All of the current for the parking, turn signal and brake lights were going through a common ground that was too small.

FCA products are notorious for crusty grounds due to corrosion. FCA typically combines multiple circuit grounds on one ring terminal that is not insulated / protected. If you have access to the alldata you can see the location of the ground for the circuit and give it the tug test.
 
Thankyou. That gives me something else to look at. Is it possible the body control module could cause one actuator not to work? I just checked for 12 volts at the new replacement rambox actuator wiring, and it is missing. It is supposed to have 12vdc all the time on that connector inside the rambox after comparing it to the workimg passenger side. I have 12 volts for the lights which do work, but not the actuator. I am wondering if that BCM could be an issue. I wonder if it would throw a code for 1 actuator not working.
 
Thankyou. That gives me something else to look at. Is it possible the body control module could cause one actuator not to work? I just checked for 12 volts at the new replacement rambox actuator wiring, and it is missing. It is supposed to have 12vdc all the time on that connector inside the rambox after comparing it to the workimg passenger side. I have 12 volts for the lights which do work, but not the actuator. I am wondering if that BCM could be an issue. I wonder if it would throw a code for 1 actuator not working.
If you are missing a constant 12V source it is likely not coming from the BCM. The BCM wouldn't stay powered up to provide constant 12V power to the rambox. Go to tech authority and download the wiring diagrams, study the rambox wiring and then develop a troubleshooting plan. If it shows the power coming from the BCM, then you need a scan tool to talk to it and figure out what the module is saying.

Best of luck on this!
 
Thankyou. That gives me something else to look at. Is it possible the body control module could cause one actuator not to work? I just checked for 12 volts at the new replacement rambox actuator wiring, and it is missing. It is supposed to have 12vdc all the time on that connector inside the rambox after comparing it to the workimg passenger side. I have 12 volts for the lights which do work, but not the actuator. I am wondering if that BCM could be an issue. I wonder if it would throw a code for 1 actuator not working.
Did you find a solution? I have the same issue , no voltage to the actuator.
 
appears all of my problems are coming from corroded wires, connectors, harnesses, junctions. I am replacing 2 harnesses and hoping that works.
 
So I replaced all of the rambox wiring and the jumper coming off the bed harness because the drivers side rambox button does not work on my 2020 Longhorn. I found a pretty melted plug and wires for the lock actuator jumper. After changing everything and cleaning up the pins on the existing connectors, it still doesn't work. Anything that can cause this plug to burn and the lock not work? The actuator, lid wiring, and lights are good because I took the lid off and tried it on the other side. There is nothing else wrong with it. I even went checking all the fuses. Everything seems fine.
do you have the diagram? can you follow with a conduit test?
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top