Location of AC Actuator sensor?

[rkjunior]

Dealer wants $1k to diagnose a leaked in my 2019 Rebel AC system. I have the YF and compatible dye but unsure where the actuator sensor is located. My system is completely empty and the compressor isn't kicking on due to zero pressure so I need to jump the connector. Anyone know where to locate it?

Or on the flip side, if I try to fill it while the truck is running will it eventually come to enough pressure to kick the compressor on?

 

[6of36]

Dealer wants $1k to diagnose a leaked in my 2019 Rebel AC system. I have the YF and compatible dye but unsure where the actuator sensor is located. My system is completely empty and the compressor isn't kicking on due to zero pressure so I need to jump the connector. Anyone know where to locate it?

Or on the flip side, if I try to fill it while the truck is running will it eventually come to enough pressure to kick the compressor on?

It's called a low pressure cut off switch. Not sure exactly where on a 19, but it would be the only wires running to an A/C line. Generally near the firewall.

 

[MannyN]

Number 13 in this diagram.

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[rkjunior]

Number 13 in this diagram.

Genuine Mopar A/C Low Pressure Cut Off Switch 5080867AA | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Genuine Mopar A/C Low Pressure Cut Off Switch 5080867AA at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

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I don't think this is correct. This diagram is for a 2002 Dodge Neon. My Ram doesn't have this part

 

[rkjunior]

Could this be it at #5 -- the A/C Pressure Transducer valve? Looks like a valve with a plug on the end on the LP side.

 

[MannyN]

Could this be it at #5 -- the A/C Pressure Transducer valve? Looks like a valve with a plug on the end on the LP side.

View attachment 160338View attachment 160339

That looks like the high-pressure side.
Here is a link to the low pressure transducer. It is located in the small line front right just beside the air filter box.

A/C Pressure Switch Sensor W/PlugFor Chrysler 300 Dodge Ram 1500 2500 3500 12-20 | eBay

For CHRYSLER 200 2012-2017. for CHRYSLER 300 2012-2021. for CHRYSLER PACIFICA 2017-2021. for CHRYSLER TOWN & COUNTRY 2011-2016. for CHRYSLER VOYAGER 2020-2021. for DODGE AVENGER 2012-2014. for DODGE CALIBER 2008-2012.

www.ebay.com

Also, here is a picture of my A/C lines.

 

[rkjunior]

That looks like the high-pressure side.
Here is a link to the low pressure transducer. It is located in the small line front right just beside the air filter box.

A/C Pressure Switch Sensor W/PlugFor Chrysler 300 Dodge Ram 1500 2500 3500 12-20 | eBay

For CHRYSLER 200 2012-2017. for CHRYSLER 300 2012-2021. for CHRYSLER PACIFICA 2017-2021. for CHRYSLER TOWN & COUNTRY 2011-2016. for CHRYSLER VOYAGER 2020-2021. for DODGE AVENGER 2012-2014. for DODGE CALIBER 2008-2012.

www.ebay.com

Also, here is a picture of my A/C lines.

View attachment 160341

Thanks, I'll take a look. Looks like the photo you sent looks like HP to me - it's a smaller line. Either way, I know what to look for. The part you linked included the Transducer I linked, so I should be able to breadcrumb it.

 

[rkjunior]

Looks like this one is 3 wires -- Any idea what pins should be jumped? I assume G/Y?

 

[MannyN]

Looks like this one is 3 wires -- Any idea what pins should be jumped? I assume G/Y?

If you have a 3 wire pressure switch, you can most likely jump it. Jumper wires are usually included with the switch, and they are color coded to make it easy to identify which wire goes where. The most common colors are black, red and green.

To jumper the switch, simply connect the black wire to the green wire, and the red wire to the black wire. This will bypass the pressure switch and allow electricity to flow through to your compressor.

 

[kapinallinen2]

Dealer wants $1k to diagnose a leaked in my 2019 Rebel AC system. I have the YF and compatible dye but unsure where the actuator sensor is located. My system is completely empty and the compressor isn't kicking on due to zero pressure so I need to jump the connector. Anyone know where to locate it?

Or on the flip side, if I try to fill it while the truck is running will it eventually come to enough pressure to kick the compressor on?

"There must be a minimum of 43 psi to allow the system to operate" As far as I can tell, this is with the engine not running.
That transduser provides a variable signal to the PCM, before jumping it I would just put freon in the system and see if the compressor kicks in.

 

[rkjunior]

"There must be a minimum of 43 psi to allow the system to operate" As far as I can tell, this is with the engine not running.
That transduser provides a variable signal to the PCM, before jumping it I would just put freon in the system and see if the compressor kicks in.

That was my secondary question. Can I fill it via the LP inlet even if the compressor isn't running. I assumed yes but everything I had been taught was to do it with it running full blast.

 

[6of36]

Just because it's called a low pressure cut off, doesn't mean it is in the low side. It just kills the power to the compressor, if the pressure falls below the specified pressure. Do you know what you are doing? Do you have the proper tools?If you don't know what you are doing, it can result in severe injuries. Play it safe, and leave it to a professional. I wouldn't use that dealer. I'm sure you can find a local shop to diagnose for more like $100-200.

 

[Jimmy07]

Looks like this one is 3 wires -- Any idea what pins should be jumped? I assume G/Y?

If all you’re trying to do is activate the compressor clutch so it’ll receive the refrigerant from a can, you’re focusing on the wrong component. Rather than try to trick the PCM to activate it’s ac clutch control circuit via the transducer, just pull the K02 ac clutch relay, and jump pins 30 to 87.

 

[rkjunior]

If all you’re trying to do is activate the compressor clutch so it’ll receive the refrigerant from a can, you’re focusing on the wrong component. Rather than try to trick the PCM to activate it’s ac clutch control circuit via the transducer, just pull the K02 ac clutch relay, and jump pins 30 to 87.
View attachment 160391

Thanks,this sounds way easier haha.

I'm not trying to fill the system but get enough in there with some dye so I can see how bad of a leak I'm dealing with.

 

[6of36]

If all you’re trying to do is activate the compressor clutch so it’ll receive the refrigerant from a can, you’re focusing on the wrong component. Rather than try to trick the PCM to activate it’s ac clutch control circuit via the transducer, just pull the K02 ac clutch relay, and jump pins 30 to 87.

This may be the case, but it shouldn't be. The low pressure switch should be between the relay, and the clutch. The diagram doesn't list low pressure switch itself. They have odd names.

 

[HSKR R/T]

That was my secondary question. Can I fill it via the LP inlet even if the compressor isn't running. I assumed yes but everything I had been taught was to do it with it running full blast.

Would probably be a good idea to do a little.kore research before trying to tackle this yourself. Your understanding of the HVAC system and refrigerant is lacking.

For one, the standard A/C line fittings most manifolds and vacuum pumps come with do not work on YF-1234 systems. You need to get the special fittings. Then if your system is completely empty, you don't want to run the compressor unless you want to ruin it. First, you need to put vacuum on the system to remove any moisture that may have gotten in the lines and to check for leaks. If it will hold vacuum for 30-45 minutes after you shut vacuum pump off, then you can refill. If the refrigerant just leaked out, and you didn't replace any parts you can just add the YF-1234 refrigerant. If you replaced anything, you may need to add some compatible oil back into the system. For refilling, after you verify it will hold vacuum, and without releasing the vacuum, connect your can of refrigerant to your manifold/guage set. Be sure to purge the lines before opening the valves. Then add refrigerant, keeping an eye on pressures. You can have vehicle running with A/C turned on high at rhis point. Once you get enough refrigerant into the system, the pressure sensors will allow compressor to kick on. It will cycle on and off for a little while until the pressures equalize. Then continue filling until you get he proper high and low pressure readings for the outside air temp. There is a chart to tell you where your pressures need to be. You need to monitor both high and low side pressures.

 

[HSKR R/T]

If all you’re trying to do is activate the compressor clutch so it’ll receive the refrigerant from a can, you’re focusing on the wrong component. Rather than try to trick the PCM to activate it’s ac clutch control circuit via the transducer, just pull the K02 ac clutch relay, and jump pins 30 to 87.
View attachment 160391

Jumping anything to manually kick the compressor on with no refrigerant in the system is the wrong way to do things, and is not required to fill the system properly.

 

[Jimmy07]

Jumping anything to manually kick the compressor on with no refrigerant in the system is the wrong way to do things, and is not required to fill the system properly.

It is definitely the wrong way to do things, but if someone is adamant about “backyarding” an off the shelf can of refrigerant into on empty system, that’s the only way. Otherwise, the refrigerant just sits in the can.

 

[rkjunior]

It is definitely the wrong way to do things, but if someone is adamant about “backyarding” an off the shelf can of refrigerant into on empty system, that’s the only way. Otherwise, the refrigerant just sits in the can.

I realize it's not ideal but for a quick diagnose of how bad a leak is, how harmful will it be running the compressor for 5 minutes while I force a can of refrigerant into it?

 

[rkjunior]

It is definitely the wrong way to do things, but if someone is adamant about “backyarding” an off the shelf can of refrigerant into on empty system, that’s the only way. Otherwise, the refrigerant just sits in the can.

Thanks for the help. Jumping the relay allowed me to get enough to plug the relay back in and charging up the system so I can monitor it. Ran it with the AC going for 20 min and it stayed cold with the pressure staying at roughly 40 psi so at least I know it shouldn't be a major leak.