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Level now, 6" lift later......

mayer7196

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Been searching posts all day yesterday and couldn't find my exact answer. I have a 2020 Laramie 1500 4x4 WITHOUT THE OFF ROAD PACKAGE. NO ORP!!!!

I want to level my truck with 2" Rough Country leveling strut, then go to the 6" lift sometime next year.

What I would like to do is either use my stock 20" wheels and buy 35x12.50 tires just once and use them for level and lift---if possible.

I understand that with the stock wheel offset, the UCA's will hit the tire on the level without a spacer on a 12.5" wide tire. So......
1- Is there an AFTERMARKET wheel offset that will allow me to run 12.50 wide on a level AND 6" lift later on?
2- If I use spacers, how much big of ones do I need to run 12.50 wides on my stock wheel?

Thanks so much!
 

djevox

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12.5’s are too wide for a stock wheel, but I’m guessing you’ll try anyway like a lot of others here.

Try searching in the same area you posted in. There’s at least a week’s worth of reading on everything you asked.
 

mayer7196

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12.5’s are too wide for a stock wheel, but I’m guessing you’ll try anyway like a lot of others here.

Try searching in the same area you posted in. There’s at least a week’s worth of reading on everything you asked.
Nah, I ain't gonna do it unless I 100% know it fits. I read a lot, but no one ever responds to exact questions like "ORP"? I know that extra inch allows more than just a non-off road package does.

But that is what I am curious about. 12.5" is too wide for a stock wheel unless I use spacers so I will completely eliminate that equation, since I really don't want to use spacers.

So with 35x12.50r20, what do wheel would I need to go to? I know my stock wheels are +19. So, if i do closer to 0, like a +1 will that allow them to clear the UCA's?
 

djevox

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I don’t have a perfect answer for you because I haven’t measured it, but you should be able to measure for yourself and use this calculator as a guide. You can compare your stock wheel and tire set up to the new one, then you should be able to estimate pretty closely with the future lift to where the tire will sit centered and at full lock for different offsets.

 

Shots

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I'm currently running Rebel wheels and tires, so the offset and width is the same as my 20's were, although the diameter is slightly bigger. The tires are 275 (or 10.8") and I have about 1/2" of clearance between the tire and UCA.
With a 2.5" level on my truck (non-ORP) I've got plenty of room to clear bigger diameter tires, but the lift/level doesn't change anything regarding clearance of the UCA, at least not that I noticed. It doesn't make it any worse so you can probably take measurements off your current configuration.

Anyway, with 0.5" of clearance I could probably fit a tire that is an inch wider than I currently have since half of it would go outboard too. Meaning I could potentially fit a 11.8" wide tire without having to change the wheels or use a spacer (the closest being a 295 at 11.6" wide).
Since 12.5" tire is almost an inch beyond that, you're looking at a 1/2" spacer to clear the UCA on the stock wheels. To run a new wheel without a spacer you're offset would need to be equivalent which is roughly 13 mm.
Since the stock wheels are +19 you should be able to squeeze a 12.5" wide tire in using a wheel with a +6 offset. Therefore, a 0 offset should work fine with a 12.5" tire. That extra 6 mm buys you almost 1/4" so it may be close depending on the specific tire, and how close your stock tire is to the UCA (I measured with a steel tape, nothing particularly accurate) but I don't foresee any issues with the UCA when running a zero or negative offset.
 

mayer7196

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I'm currently running Rebel wheels and tires, so the offset and width is the same as my 20's were, although the diameter is slightly bigger. The tires are 275 (or 10.8") and I have about 1/2" of clearance between the tire and UCA.
With a 2.5" level on my truck (non-ORP) I've got plenty of room to clear bigger diameter tires, but the lift/level doesn't change anything regarding clearance of the UCA, at least not that I noticed. It doesn't make it any worse so you can probably take measurements off your current configuration.

Anyway, with 0.5" of clearance I could probably fit a tire that is an inch wider than I currently have since half of it would go outboard too. Meaning I could potentially fit a 11.8" wide tire without having to change the wheels or use a spacer (the closest being a 295 at 11.6" wide).
Since 12.5" tire is almost an inch beyond that, you're looking at a 1/2" spacer to clear the UCA on the stock wheels. To run a new wheel without a spacer you're offset would need to be equivalent which is roughly 13 mm.
Since the stock wheels are +19 you should be able to squeeze a 12.5" wide tire in using a wheel with a +6 offset. Therefore, a 0 offset should work fine with a 12.5" tire. That extra 6 mm buys you almost 1/4" so it may be close depending on the specific tire, and how close your stock tire is to the UCA (I measured with a steel tape, nothing particularly accurate) but I don't foresee any issues with the UCA when running a zero or negative offset.
So the only thing I would need to worry about on a 0 or negative offset would be wheel rub along the plastics.....
 

LaxDfns15

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Question 1: I don't understand why if a wheel would work on a 2" lift it won't work with a 6" later on. If it can clear the UCA's with 2 it'll clear with 6.

Question 2: 1" spacers. My 18x9 0 offset wheels give me over 1" of clearance with 275 tires.
 

mayer7196

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Question 1: I don't understand why if a wheel would work on a 2" lift it won't work with a 6" later on. If it can clear the UCA's with 2 it'll clear with 6.

Question 2: 1" spacers. My 18x9 0 offset wheels give me over 1" of clearance with 275 tires.
True, so basically it comes down to me using new wheels or spacers. 12.5" wides will not clear UCA's on +19 stock wheels.
 

mtnrider

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Seems like a lot of wasted time and money, why not wait a little longer and just do the 6" and get the tires and wheels you want the first time?


.
 

Shots

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So the only thing I would need to worry about on a 0 or negative offset would be wheel rub along the plastics.....
That is correct. With the wheel being further outboard they may contact the fender liners when turned to full lock. This is also a factor when upsizing the diameter too. You can measure this as well, by turning the stock configuration to full lock and checking to see how much clearance you have.

Question 1: I don't understand why if a wheel would work on a 2" lift it won't work with a 6" later on. If it can clear the UCA's with 2 it'll clear with 6.

Question 2: 1" spacers. My 18x9 0 offset wheels give me over 1" of clearance with 275 tires.
Correct, if it clears the 2" level it will clear the 6" later. Although that does assume the 6" kit doesn't have some sort of weird geometry change with the new knuckle, but I don't know why any kit would make it less.
And your wheel matches with the calculations. You should have about 1.25" of clearance with a 0 offset and a 275mm wide tire.
 

Shots

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Seems like a lot of wasted time and money, why not wait a little longer and just do the 6" and get the tires and wheels you want the first time?


.
Probably because a leveling kit is $100, but a 6" lift is $1K+.
 

Pyleketerson

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Yeah, I feel like you’re doing it backwards hence the lack of reasonable answers. You’re trying to thread the needle with the first fitment. I’m sure your truck will look awesome when the final lift and appropriate wheel/tire combo is installed. Good luck!
 

Shots

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I'm not sure I see the issue here. Plenty of people run 35's with a leveling kit only. That's not uncommon at all. So the OP runs that set-up for a while and later installs more lift, while using the same tires. He apparently only plans to buy tires once "buy 35x12.50 tires just once" and was wondering if they can be used with the leveling kit. So the only "wasted" money is a leveling kit, which is less than $100, and could probably be sold after the 6" kit is put on. So he gets a leveled truck which looks better, with a bigger more aggressive tire (which also looks better) while he saves to buy the expensive lift. Sounds reasonable to me.

Leveled with 35's is a very common configuration, so I'm not sure what the "issue" is that anyone thinks he's doing it wrong.
I'm running a 2.5" kit on my truck. I'm currently running Rebel take-offs but I was considering 34's or 35's with it. Nobody seemed to think that was a bad idea because I never mentioned doing a bigger lift later.
Maybe I'm missing something?
 
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djevox

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I'm not sure I see the issue here. Plenty of people run 35's with a leveling kit only. That's not uncommon at all. So the OP runs that set-up for a while and later installs more lift, while using the same tires. He apparently only plans to buy tires once "buy 35x12.50 tires just once" and was wondering if they can be used with the leveling kit. So the only "wasted" money is a leveling kit, which is less than $100, and could probably be sold after the 6" kit is put on. So he gets a leveled truck which looks better, with a bigger more aggressive tire (which also looks better) while he saves to buy the expensive lift. Sounds reasonable to me.

Leveled with 35's is a very common configuration, so I'm not sure what the "issue" is that anyone thinks he's doing it wrong.
I'm running a 2.5" kit on my truck. I'm currently running Rebel take-offs but I was considering 34's or 35's with it. Nobody seemed to think that was a bad idea because I never mentioned doing a bigger lift later.
Maybe I'm missing something?
If I understand correctly, he doesn’t want the setup to rub at all. I believe that’s the main issue.
 

Shots

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Depending on the wheel/tire selection it shouldn't rub with the leveling kit. Those same tire could then be used for the 6" kit when it's installed because it will definitely clear with 6 if it clears with 2.
 

mayer7196

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I'm not sure I see the issue here. Plenty of people run 35's with a leveling kit only. That's not uncommon at all. So the OP runs that set-up for a while and later installs more lift, while using the same tires. He apparently only plans to buy tires once "buy 35x12.50 tires just once" and was wondering if they can be used with the leveling kit. So the only "wasted" money is a leveling kit, which is less than $100, and could probably be sold after the 6" kit is put on. So he gets a leveled truck which looks better, with a bigger more aggressive tire (which also looks better) while he saves to buy the expensive lift. Sounds reasonable to me.

Leveled with 35's is a very common configuration, so I'm not sure what the "issue" is that anyone thinks he's doing it wrong.
I'm running a 2.5" kit on my truck. I'm currently running Rebel take-offs but I was considering 34's or 35's with it. Nobody seemed to think that was a bad idea because I never mentioned doing a bigger lift later.
Maybe I'm missing something?
It's not about running 35's, it was about running 35 and 12.5's wide on a level kit with stock wheels. It apparently can't be done unless you use spacers because of the offset of the stock wheels (+19).

I have finally decided just to do aftermarket wheels and tires with a 4/6" lift sometime next year.
 

Shots

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That is correct, 12.5" wide will not clear the suspension on the stock wheel without a spacer. Sounds like the thread was a success and able to get you the answers you were looking for.
Although I still don't see a problem with running those same aftermarket wheels on a leveled truck in the mean time. That is of course if you're doing your own work since it wouldn't be worth it to pay an install fee on a leveling kit just to take it off in a year or less.
 

Pyleketerson

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It's not about running 35's, it was about running 35 and 12.5's wide on a level kit with stock wheels. It apparently can't be done unless you use spacers because of the offset of the stock wheels (+19).

I have finally decided just to do aftermarket wheels and tires with a 4/6" lift sometime next year.
I think you will be happy with that decision. Cheers buddy and have fun putting your setup together.
 

mayer7196

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That is correct, 12.5" wide will not clear the suspension on the stock wheel without a spacer. Sounds like the thread was a success and able to get you the answers you were looking for.
Although I still don't see a problem with running those same aftermarket wheels on a leveled truck in the mean time. That is of course if you're doing your own work since it wouldn't be worth it to pay an install fee on a leveling kit just to take it off in a year or less.
That creates another question.

Does anyone know an aftermarket wheel with an offset where you can run 35x12.50r20 with a level?
 

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