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Keyed power

yrralguthrie

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Just as possible help, if not already posted. Looking at the underhood fuse box and cover. Between F36 and K09 there are a couple of skinny spade lugs. The one toward the right side of the pickup(passenger) is hot when the key is on. I do not know if it connects directly to the battery. I needed power for a camera so I connected a wire and fuse to run into the cabin for the camera.
 

theblet

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Just as possible help, if not already posted. Looking at the underhood fuse box and cover. Between F36 and K09 there are a couple of skinny spade lugs. The one toward the right side of the pickup(passenger) is hot when the key is on. I do not know if it connects directly to the battery. I needed power for a camera so I connected a wire and fuse to run into the cabin for the camera.

Can you post a pic? It must not be connected directly to the battery if it’s only hot with the ignition
 

yrralguthrie

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Just look at the diagram on the removable cover of the fuse box. It identifies F36 and K09. The two spade lugs are just between. I believe (am not sure at this point) one is hot and one keyed. And you're correct it can't connect to the battery. My arthritis meds make me fussy sometimes.
 

HSKR R/T

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Just as possible help, if not already posted. Looking at the underhood fuse box and cover. Between F36 and K09 there are a couple of skinny spade lugs. The one toward the right side of the pickup(passenger) is hot when the key is on. I do not know if it connects directly to the battery. I needed power for a camera so I connected a wire and fuse to run into the cabin for the camera.
Most people connect their dash cams to the fuse panel in the dash so they don't have to run wires through the firewall, and keeps wires shorter.
 

yrralguthrie

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Most people don't have as large a problem with arthritis as I have. I could not figure out a way to lay on my back and work on the fuse panel. It was easier for me to run wires from the underhood fuse panel!
 

HSKR R/T

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Most people don't have as large a problem with arthritis as I have. I could not figure out a way to lay on my back and work on the fuse panel. It was easier for me to run wires from the underhood fuse panel!
How did you route the wire?
 

theblet

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Just look at the diagram on the removable cover of the fuse box. It identifies F36 and K09. The two spade lugs are just between. I believe (am not sure at this point) one is hot and one keyed. And you're correct it can't connect to the battery. My arthritis meds make me fussy sometimes.

Do you mean here?
 

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yrralguthrie

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How did you route the wire?
There is a rubber grommet surrounding something I forget now, but just pushed it through and the grommet sealed up just fine. You'll see it on the firewall from under the hood. A little hard for me to reach inside, but I did manage that. Another reason I did it that way was to eventually get power from the battery for some 12 volt outlets, and also 5 volt in the back. This pickup came with only one 12-volt cig plug. on top of the dash, and nothing in the back.
 

theblet

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That is the place, but mine has two spade lugs there. Hard to say from that picture. That is the place, however. l

Curious to see if you can tap in here. Please let us know how it goes.
 

yrralguthrie

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It has worked fine so far. I am just running the traffic cam now, but may add a cig. outlet and usb for the rear seats. I see no reason it should not work. I may try to trace it back to its keyed origin.
 

yrralguthrie

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An update: I cannot find a wiring diagram that I can decipher and since I don't know how much current I can draw from that spade lug, I'm going to put a relay in. Just use the spade lug to control the relay. It's close to the battery and I can draw current from the battery and not have to worry about causing an overload somewhere in the system. Also then I can use this relay to control any future additions. I'll use a STDP, but the spade lug could be used to control more than one relay. A lot of automotive relays seem to be rated at about 1.5 watts, which is a strange way to rate them, but that's 125 ma. Acceptable, but I could probably get a relay that would reduce that to under 50 ma.
 

HSKR R/T

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An update: I cannot find a wiring diagram that I can decipher and since I don't know how much current I can draw from that spade lug, I'm going to put a relay in. Just use the spade lug to control the relay. It's close to the battery and I can draw current from the battery and not have to worry about causing an overload somewhere in the system. Also then I can use this relay to control any future additions. I'll use a STDP, but the spade lug could be used to control more than one relay. A lot of automotive relays seem to be rated at about 1.5 watts, which is a strange way to rate them, but that's 125 ma. Acceptable, but I could probably get a relay that would reduce that to under 50 ma.
Probably a lot overkill to use a relay. Unless you are running higher current draw than what a USB outlet can provide.
 

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