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Intake Manifold Replacement - Who has done it?

tom318

tom318

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I've had the P200A, P200B and P2DE codes for the last week or so and I'm getting ready to pull the trigger on either doing it myself or the dealer. Still struggling to find the part but I "might" have one sorted soon. Dealer wants~$1200 for labor which isn't too terrible but to get their warranty I need to buy the part from them at $963 which is ~$200-300 more then what i find online if I can find one in stock.

My question is who has done it themselves and how did it go? I signed up for alldata and reviewed the steps and it doesn't look too hateful. Few concerns I have is I cant truly confirm its the intake and not a sensor as i don't have the tech needed to electrically troubleshoot that. Has anyone had these codes and it NOT be the intake manifold?
#2 - once that manifold is off, cleaning the inlet ports looks like it might be a massive pain, any tips or tricks there?

My truck is at ~126k, its been mostly issue free that entire time, its out of warranty and ill likely be putting it on a diet at some point so the added benefit of getting a warranty on the work from the dealer is less appealing for the cost. Taking a day to do it myself and saving $1500 sounds okay, that is if I don't screw it up.
 
Following.

I have the P200B code come up only. I feel like it maybe just a senor. Fingers crossed.
 
Following. Out of curiosity and in case my truck gives me the same problem. 90k miles and counting.
 
I have a 2020 Ram Laramie. Both manifolds were cracked at 58,000 miles and you are covered on the Federal Government Emissions Warranty of 80,000 miles. Check your window sticker when you purchased your truck.
 

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Ready Go said:
$249.99 on Ebay..sounds better!

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Click to expand...
Anchor Down said:
I have a 2020 Ram Laramie. Both manifolds were cracked at 58,000 miles and you are covered on the Federal Government Emissions Warranty of 80,000 miles. Check your window sticker when you purchased your truck.
Click to expand...
Thread is about the Intake Manifold on the 3.0 Ecodiesel, fellas, not the Hemi.
 
Did anyone install a Dorman

615-311​

Engine Intake Manifold for there GEN 3 EcoDiesel?​

 
I heard it isn’t and it also doesn’t come with the actuator for the swirl valves or any of the sensors. The Mopar one is a lot more $$ but it comes with all new sensors and actuators. With how much labor is required to swap it, even my cheap *** gladly passed on that. Started my swap today. Definitely a lot of work but just wanted to get the easy stuff out of the way today and tomorrow and Sunday are the bigger efforts. Definitely sooted up. The HP egr tube was rough. IMG_9525.jpeg
 
I will be cleaning my EGR in spring and map sensor. I have 36,400 miles on my truck.
How many miles do you have on truck?
any fuel additives or oil additives you use?
 
Anchor Down said:
I have a 2020 Ram Laramie. Both manifolds were cracked at 58,000 miles and you are covered on the Federal Government Emissions Warranty of 80,000 miles. Check your window sticker when you purchased your truck.
Click to expand...
How do you know if its cracked? Code on dashboard
 
127k miles. No additives. Also no biodiesel from the station I use in 99% of my fill ups. Not sure if that helps or hurts this situation.
You can clean these but ultimately this will jam up those swirl valves. There really is no means of cleaning those. You could clean the egr tube weekly and still end up with clogged intake.
 
tom318 said:
127k miles. No additives. Also no biodiesel from the station I use in 99% of my fill ups. Not sure if that helps or hurts this situation.
You can clean these but ultimately this will jam up those swirl valves. There really is no means of cleaning those. You could clean the egr tube weekly and still end up with clogged intake.
Click to expand...
I will clean the EGR and MAP sensor in March/April when it gets warmer. I use a lot of fuel additives in my Diesel, I wonder how my EGR will look like.
I will also clean the DEF injector
 
Got the manifold off yesterday and the new one out in. I’ll be wrapping it all up later this evening hopefully. Getting that wiring harness out of the way was a pain. The ALLDATA procedure wasn’t all that helpful apart from getting torque values, and some close up images of connectors.
Looking at the old one, the driver side swirl valves looked much worse than passengers and the actuator was broken. The inlet ports on the engine didn’t look too bad at all. Looks like most of the soot stuck to the intake manifold and swirl valves. It was getting late so I didn’t snap a pic of those unfortunately. Have a few of the old intake for reference. Cleaned the egr tube and looks as good as new once it warms up outside I think I’ll just do the diet and keep racking up the miles. This is definitely a tough job, thankfully a friend who was a mechanic for many years helped me out with his top notch tools and skills. The bolts on the rear of the intake were tough to get out and in. Fuel rail wasn’t bad once we cut a t40 bit in half to shorten it so it would fit.
I tried really hard to get it out without taking the driver side fuel rail off but there was no chance.
IMG_9547.jpegIMG_9548.jpegIMG_9549.jpeg
 
There’s seems to be some oil coming through the charge air cooler and in through the throttle body. It’s not much at all and likely normal but it seems like the combination of that plus the soot coming through the egr starts gum up. Overall not too bad I guess for 127k miles. IMG_9545.jpeg
 
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