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How to properly wash truck

greenlawnracing said:
Link?
Click to expand...
Here ya go:

blocardryer.com

AIR-RS

AIR-RS is a compact Car Dryer that packs a big punch. Ideal for safely and easily drying cars and motorcycles, driving out water from every vent, mirror or hiding spot. Do not let this lightweight car blower fool you, it packs a huge 5.5HP motor and comes with a 16’ (5M) Cord and 16’ (5M) Hose...
blocardryer.com blocardryer.com

I also use it to blow out the lint and dust in the cab too before vacuuming.
 
Back to the OP's question.....

Here is what I just did to my 2019 Bighorn this week. I am super happy with the results and it did not break the bank. Pics to follow......

1 - Wash - Two bucket method with dirt traps and a very soft fiber mitt. I used Dawn as the soap this time because I was starting from scratch and wanted the old wax gone. Wash everything (black trim, low on rocker panels and bumpers, etc.)
2 - Dry - Using good quality microfiber waffle weave towels
3 - "Clay" - I invested in the Mother's Speed Clay 2.0 synthetic and man, I'm never going to go back to real clay. It did just a good a job and SO much less hand strain and more speed (about four times bigger than a squashed clay ball). Just use plenty of Detailer's Spray. Says it is good for twenty sessions, so ends up cheaper and if I drop it, I rinse it off.
4 - Wipe - I used only a small amount out of a spray bottle of Mother's CMX Surface Prep, wiping all surfaces to be sure ceramic coating had the best/cleanest base possible. Use plenty of clean microfiber towels here.
5 - Treat - I put on two coats of Turtle Wax Hybrid Ceramic Spray, following label directions and waiting 24 hours between coats. This stuff is a bargain at about $15 a bottle, and I could do my truck at least 8 coats with one bottle. Very easy on and off. I treated all the black plastic trim as well and it leaves a nice soft sheen with no "white marks" typical of wax. The finish looks as great as any high quality wax I have used in the past and the water beading is awesome. Based on reviews, I'm thinking I can get at least 6 months out of it, or longer if I use the TW Hybrid Wet Wax every other washing. Beside some typical nicks and scratches, my truck looks new!

Pics below taken on a mostly overcast day!

IMG_2164.JPG
IMG_2166.JPG


Just for grins, same truck, straight from the dealership over two years earlier (sunnier day):
IMG_1291.JPG
 
Last edited:
TVANVA said:
Back to the OP's question.....

Here is what I just did to my 2019 Bighorn this week. I am super happy with the results and it did not break the bank. Pics to follow......

1 - Wash - Two bucket method with dirt traps and a very soft fiber mitt. I used Dawn as the soap this time because I was starting from scratch and wanted the old wax gone. Wash everything (black trim, low on rocker panels and bumpers, etc.)
2 - Dry - Using good quality microfiber waffle weave towels
3 - "Clay" - I invested in the Mother's Speed Clay 2.0 synthetic and man, I'm never going to go back to real clay. It did just a good a job and SO much less hand strain and more speed (about four times bigger than a squashed clay ball). Just use plenty of Detailer's Spray. Says it is good for twenty sessions, so ends up cheaper and if I drop it, I rinse it off.
4 - Wipe - I used only a small amount out of a spray bottle of Mother's CMX Surface Prep, wiping all surfaces to be sure ceramic coating had the best/cleanest base possible. Use plenty of clean microfiber towels here.
5 - Treat - I put on two coats of Turtle Wax Hybrid Ceramic Spray, following label directions and waiting 24 hours between coats. This stuff is a bargain at about $15 a bottle, and I could do my truck at least 8 coats with one bottle. Very easy on and off. I treated all the black plastic trim as well and it leaves a nice soft sheen with no "white marks" typical of wax. The finish looks as great as any high quality wax I have used in the past and the water beading is awesome. Based on reviews, I'm thinking I can get at least 6 months out of it, or longer if I use the TW Hybrid Wet Wax every other washing. Beside some typical nicks and scratches, my truck looks new!

Pics below taken on a mostly overcast day!

View attachment 96164
View attachment 96165
Click to expand...
Love the color of your truck man! I wanted something like that but with the way things are in the truck buying world doubled with my immediate need for a truck limited my choices. I'm happy with my truck though. Well done and great post.

Sent from my SM-N986U using Tapatalk
 
I use the 2 bucket method with a pressure washer and a DI system and dry with a $39 Ryobi leaf blower

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and just bought this to replace my AR Blue 383

1623287696755.png


20200801_200852.jpg
 
Last edited:
For the foam cannon users I highly recommend the "IK Foam Pro 12" Pump foam sprayer. I purchased 2 weeks ago and I Love it. I can foam my truck without having to setup my pressure washer.
 

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MValdez said:
For the foam cannon users I highly recommend the "IK Foam Pro 12" Pump foam sprayer. I purchased 2 weeks ago and I Love it. I can foam my truck without having to setup my pressure washer.
Click to expand...
This was me a couple days ago. Ordered the IK Foam Pro 12 just after I ran out of gas.

IMG_1858.jpg
 
My old 2004 Dodge Ram was pretty easy to wash and dry , my new truck takes a little more time , specifically the front grill so i bought one of these on amazon https://www.milwaukeetool.com/Products/Power-Tools/Vacuums-and-Fans/Compact-Blowers/0884-20 i think i paid about $107 for it but i already had the batteries as i have other Milwaukee tools . Its compact size is great and easy to use ,has 3 speeds and has enough power for me , it works great on the wheel lug nuts , tires , grille ,bumper ,mirrors and every other nook and cranny and it is small enough for me to bring with me when i go camping . I used one of the smaller Milwaukee batteries and was not able to finish the truck , but with one of the larger batteries it finishes and them some , you could get some aftermarket batteries that i am sure would work fine .
 
Use the two bucket method.
Use a high quality car shampoo mixed in the proper concentration.
Use a high quality lambs wool or microfiber mitt.
Work from the top down.
Use a separate mitt for the wheels.
Air dry if possible, with an electric or battery powered blower, not a gas powered blower.

if you are going to do any defect correction or a ceramic application, then clay barring is a must.
You can get a decent consumer grade ceramic coating online for less than $50 if you want to do it yourself. If your paint is in good shape, you don’t have to polish before you use a ceramic coating.
There are lots of polymer wax sealants that go on easy and last several months as well. Menzerna, Wolfgang, Sonax, and Pinnacle are a few.

if you want something quick and simple, then over the counter consumer line products from good companies like Meguiar’s or Mothers are fine. Personally, I’d stay away from Trutle Wax, Blue Coral, Armor All, and things like that. If you are putting effort into your truck, then step up to better products. The cost isn’t much more, but the results and durability are worth it.
 
BowDown said:
I use the 2 bucket method with a pressure washer and a DI system and dry with a $39 Ryobi leaf blower

View attachment 96183

View attachment 96184

and just bought this to replace my AR Blue 383

View attachment 96185


View attachment 96187
Click to expand...
Since you use a de-ionizer, do you still dry your truck? I have never used one, but an old boss of mine swore by them and he said the really nice part about using one is you didnt need to dry your car as it didnt leave water spots.
 
traveller09 said:
Since you use a de-ionizer, do you still dry your truck? I have never used one, but an old boss of mine swore by them and he said the really nice part about using one is you didnt need to dry your car as it didnt leave water spots.
Click to expand...
I do use a dryer, because the less that touches/drags on the paint, the better. I got one off of Amazon and I use it to blow the dust out of the dashboard area as well. Comes in handy.
 
If you have actual drying towels and go lightly you should be fine especially if you use a drying aid like uuw+ or a detail spray. Wolfgang rinse less wash uber diluted 1/2oz to 22oz of distilled water is my new favorite.
 
traveller09 said:
Since you use a de-ionizer, do you still dry your truck? I have never used one, but an old boss of mine swore by them and he said the really nice part about using one is you didnt need to dry your car as it didnt leave water spots.
Click to expand...

Yes but I don't have to be in a rush now or wash the truck twice to get dried water stains off. Above 80° the side washed 1st will start to dry before finishing the other side, the de-ionizer lets it dry spot free, I use a drying MF towel to get the big spots after blowing it dry.
It does dry spot free
 
I got this today to clean my truck. This thing works great!



UNLIMITED SUPER CAR WASHES​

Outside Only

Outside Only​

Price: $23.99 per month
Location Select Location: South Riding VA Gainesville VA Herndon VA Vienna VA Chantilly VA

Add To Cart
  • Wheel Cleaner
  • Tri-Color Clearcoat Protectant
  • Undercarriage Flush
  • Soft Cloth & Foam Wash
 
Mountain Whiskey said:
I got this today to clean my truck. This thing works great!



UNLIMITED SUPER CAR WASHES​

Outside Only

Outside Only​

Price: $23.99 per month
Location Select Location: South Riding VA Gainesville VA Herndon VA Vienna VA Chantilly VA

Add To Cart
  • Wheel Cleaner
  • Tri-Color Clearcoat Protectant
  • Undercarriage Flush
  • Soft Cloth & Foam Wash
Click to expand...

Had one of those once, beat the s out of my paint, did paint correction every other month then had enough of that
 
The OP asked what to do to properly wash his truck. We had a plethora of people responding with advice to do nothing and it's just a truck. Properly washing will minimize wear and tear on the paint leading to less correction and effort in the long run if you keep it.

I applaud the dedication some people here have in keeping their costly property in good condition. Being good to your paint can require minimal effort on your part without spending stupid amounts of money because you fell for the latest expensive paint protection BS and had someone else do it. Good washing, a sealant in the fall, spot correction in the spring with sealant will have you vehicle looking better than 95% of others even in upstate NY.
 
Moosefire66 said:
The bad thing about that is if there's still any contaminates in the paint it can push them deeper or even move them around the paint too

Sent from my SM-G991U1 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Which is exactly why mine is in the shower now used just for the shower glass, as soft as they are, they still leave scratches or maybe I was too picky about my paint however I could see the micro-lines left from it
 
BowDown said:
Had one of those once, beat the s out of my paint, did paint correction every other month then had enough of that
Click to expand...
Mine is not a pansy truck. It's paint is correct right off the assembly line. It even does truck stuff. It gets the dirt blasted off and keeps getting down the road and across the trails. It feels lucky to get the carwash. It knows if it steps out of line and lets me down, it will be sold off like so much scrap metal. It has the balls to stand up to a carwash.
 
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