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Help me decide

Redz72

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As much as I like those Fuel wheels, my current priority shopping list is for Nerf bars/running boards. I’m having a helluva time deciding what direction to go. Go Rhino D6, Mopar Off-road Style, Tiger Blade, old school 3” tubular nerf bars??? All I know is I don’t want any drop down style. I’d like them to hug the pinchweld/rockers as much as possible. 🤷🏼‍♂️🤑
 

Ready Go

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I would 100% agree!

I have the Electronic Running Boards, but sometimes I wish I had high "rock slider" boards just to act as "door guards" from idiots! 😋
 

Redz72

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I would 100% agree!

I have the Electronic Running Boards, but sometimes I wish I had high "rock slider" boards just to act as "door guards" from idiots! 😋
Bingo!!! Or should I say DINGO!?🤣. It took less than a month to get my first door ding and I park in the boondocks everywhere I go.
 

boogielander

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Here's another Fuel wheel that "replicates" the TE37 look that I've also been giving some thought too!

@boogielander
You can see by the two Fuel wheels why your Rays & Grams post blew me away!!!
oh yes i can see that!
i thought about that too... doing the faux TE37 but can't bring myself to do it... the truck build is everything but faux and some of my friends are purists. I'll never hear the end of it if I put TE style wheels on loll
 

boogielander

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I'm just getting started on a long journey, I imagine! I LOVE dialing in suspensions!

Right now, I've got:
ES 5.516B poly bushings on Front sway bar (and will be swapping in Maxx endlinks when I decide on final height).
Progress Technologies 25mm Rear sway bar w/poly bushings set on Tight position. I have a pairs of PT endlinks in 10", 11", and 13" that I'll decide on, also based on final height.
Right Rear spring is cut ONE FULL coil to give me almost perfect level R/L height in rear (within 1/8" depending on gas tank fullness).
Airlift bags in both rear springs with minimal (~3psi) air pressure.
Eibach Pro-kit Rear shocks (the inverted style, not 2Rs).
My ride height with stock tires is:
37.0" F and 38.75" R

**Below is pics of my truck with a jack under to simulate possible ride heights once I swap in the Front Eibachs as our weather warms up.**

I'm leaning towards setting the Front to 1.2" Clip #3 and will have ~0.5" rake.

I have a pair of McBay 0.5" billet rear coil spacers, a pair 0.125 "hard" poly spacers, and a pair of 0.25" "medium" poly spacers to help dial in the rear to the final front height to help balance the "center of gravity" feel, as needed.

I do just purchase a whole set of ORP Springs that are "matched" to my OEM springs that I am going to swap in after I dial this in..I thought this would give an extra 1" lift ( for a total of 2.2"F & 1.0"R), but I hearing that the ORPs are actually 0.5" lift and the other 0.5" is the 33" tires compared to my 32" tires. I have a new pair of Mopar 2" Lift UCAs to swap in if I get to 2.2"F lift.

I'm starting to think that I may switch gears and go to the Mopar 2" Fox setup for 2" F lift and use my ORP rear springs (if they are really 1" lift) or Eibach 1" rear springs..I want a little rake yet. I really want to most comfort (I feel this is Fox's strongpoint)..I've got the sways, etc for handling.

Once I settle my lawsuit (my SEVEN DAY OLD 2023 Laramie G/T was totalled back in July 2023), all of this will be for naught as I've always planned on eventually going to the 3" Fox 2.5 Adjustable F/R Setup as I also love dialing in valving..it makes so much difference when combined with coilovers! I'm even thinking if getting some "jack plates" for the rear springs to be able to "weight jack" this truck better.

At the end of the day, I should probably just trade in for the 2024 TRX my dealer has in transit that is same color as my G/T and stop F-ing!! Nahhh

(**included pics of the MeisterR GT1s I put on my wifes ND Miata. Cambered to -1.9° F&R with TONS of suspension parts..go cart on steroids! Took 6 stages of setup and realignment to get final dial-in)
can't go wrong with Fox 2.5 Performance Elite system.
I assume you using jack plates to help with the weight in the bed? In that case, use Carli HD springs! Below is how my truck sits with ~500lb in the back. IMG_4704.jpg
Or, just drive your truck as is and get the TRX lol it's the last of its kind. I kind of regret not going the TRX route from the beginning tbh... the amount of money I put on top of the truck itself amounts to a TRX already and I'm nowhere near TRX's suspension geometry and performance.

LOVE that Miata. Many people egg on MX5 but it is truly the lowest cost best handling cars that are reliable. (oh yeah, the new 86/ BRZ with boxer engine... F that lol)
 

Ready Go

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oh yes i can see that!
i thought about that too... doing the faux TE37 but can't bring myself to do it... the truck build is everything but faux and some of my friends are purists. I'll never hear the end of it if I put TE style wheels on loll
You must have missed my post on the "faux" Night Edition Taillights I did recently...I DON'T KNOW WHO I AM ANYMORE!!😂
 

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boogielander

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You must have missed my post on the "faux" Night Edition Taillights I did recently...I DON'T KNOW WHO I AM ANYMORE!!😂
hahahah i for sure missed that but all good!
i'm holding the line simply because i'm lucky enough that I don't pay retail for anything lol
perks of working in the industry but it's like when I was working in the gun shop... most of my paycheck goes back to the shop for parts :cry:
 

Ready Go

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can't go wrong with Fox 2.5 Performance Elite system.
I assume you using jack plates to help with the weight in the bed? In that case, use Carli HD springs! Below is how my truck sits with ~500lb in the back. View attachment 175604
Or, just drive your truck as is and get the TRX lol it's the last of its kind. I kind of regret not going the TRX route from the beginning tbh... the amount of money I put on top of the truck itself amounts to a TRX already and I'm nowhere near TRX's suspension geometry and performance.

LOVE that Miata. Many people egg on MX5 but it is truly the lowest cost best handling cars that are reliable. (oh yeah, the new 86/ BRZ with boxer engine... F that lol)
Jack plates in rear mostly because I'm SO type-A about balanced heights!

Thanks on the Miata..furst car my wife let me mod for her..it started at 2100lbs..I've got it down to ~1950lbs at it is a total BLAST!! The 6spd trans is spot on in these!
 

Ready Go

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...the TRX is the smart play, I like to do it the hard way!! 💰💰💰

IF I keep the G/T and don't go for the TRX, I could pull a fast one on the wife!! She wants an SUV this spring...a 2024 Durango HELLCAT is an SUV, so win, win there I think!
 
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boogielander

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Jack plates in rear mostly because I'm SO type-A about balanced heights!

Thanks on the Miata..furst car my wife let me mod for her..it started at 2100lbs..I've got it down to ~1950lbs at it is a total BLAST!! The 6spd trans is spot on in these!
oh damn! it looks like you still kept the creature comforts instead of doing a full on racecar build on it. that ~150lb must not be easy to shed. Few of my wheeling friends used to race their Miatas and they went full aero, full weight reduction, and so on. Blast on the track and were schooling those not-so-dedicated 911 drivers on the track but not so fun on the street. Looks like you find that perfect balance!

oh the Carli HD springs were about the same height when I had a lighter setup. I suspect they will probably ride around the same height with an empty bed as how they designed it, but I never got to test it out. I had about ~400lb constant in the bed when I did the suspension and it rode about the same height as when I went down to ~300lb in the bed, now approaching ~500lb in there and it's mostly the same lol
 

1BADRAMLIMITED

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The Fuels look bad a$$! Haven't seen those and now these may go on my list too. Like you, if the Grams came in a 20" those would be my wheels.....
Same! The fuels are awesome, methods are well constructed me beautiful but played out I feel.
 
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Ready Go

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oh damn! it looks like you still kept the creature comforts instead of doing a full on racecar build on it. that ~150lb must not be easy to shed. Few of my wheeling friends used to race their Miatas and they went full aero, full weight reduction, and so on. Blast on the track and were schooling those not-so-dedicated 911 drivers on the track but not so fun on the street. Looks like you find that perfect balance!

oh the Carli HD springs were about the same height when I had a lighter setup. I suspect they will probably ride around the same height with an empty bed as how they designed it, but I never got to test it out. I had about ~400lb constant in the bed when I did the suspension and it rode about the same height as when I went down to ~300lb in the bed, now approaching ~500lb in there and it's mostly the same lol
It took a lot a work..and you wouldn't tell by looking, but almost everything was touched one way or another!
That wheel/ tire combo went from 18x7 w/ 215s to 18x8 w/ 245 PS4S and DROPPED just over 4lbs each corner, mini Lithium battery ~25lbs, COs, etc etc.. most suspension is honeycomb aluminum now...amazingly light & strong...it's been fun!!
 

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Syrio

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I am in a similar situation. I have been researching a lot on wheels and tires. I have gotten close but could use some insight.

I have a STOCK 2019 Ram 1500 5th Gen Big Horn Off-Road Package - My OEM 20" wheels will stay with my winter Nokian Hakkapeliitta 10 tires, which I plan to run from December to March. Here is what I have found so far:
KMC Terra Wheels - 18x8.5 0mm or -10mm offset (Any thoughts?)
And for a more OE look, I like the RTX Novi - they appear to only come in 20"

For Tires, I was looking at the Nokian Outpost nAT 275/65/R18 ... Alternatively, I would consider the Falken Wildpeak AT3W or see if I can get the Wildpeak AT4W. Does anyone have thoughts on tire size? Should I consider going slightly larger? If I went with 20" wheels, I thought of going with a taller tire 275/60/R20. I do not know when the BF Goodrich KO3 will come out so I have not considered it. I want an all-terrain tire that can be used in the winter shoulder seasons before I switch to the studded Nokian Hakkapeliita tires.

I have also struggled with what load rating to choose. Should I go with an LT tire (123S) or would I be fine with a 116T. I have not had any issues with the stock Falken AT3WA's which are only 113T rated. They just ran out of tread. My truck is mainly used on the highway commuting to work. I do tow a 21' travel trailer ~3500 lbs and load up the back to go camping. I also do light off-roading mainly on forest service roads.

Thanks
 

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boogielander

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I am in a similar situation. I have been researching a lot on wheels and tires. I have gotten close but could use some insight.

I have a STOCK 2019 Ram 1500 5th Gen Big Horn Off-Road Package - My OEM 20" wheels will stay with my winter Nokian Hakkapeliitta 10 tires, which I plan to run from December to March. Here is what I have found so far:
KMC Terra Wheels - 18x8.5 0mm or -10mm offset (Any thoughts?)
And for a more OE look, I like the RTX Novi - they appear to only come in 20"

For Tires, I was looking at the Nokian Outpost nAT 275/65/R18 ... Alternatively, I would consider the Falken Wildpeak AT3W or see if I can get the Wildpeak AT4W. Does anyone have thoughts on tire size? Should I consider going slightly larger? If I went with 20" wheels, I thought of going with a taller tire 275/60/R20. I do not know when the BF Goodrich KO3 will come out so I have not considered it. I want an all-terrain tire that can be used in the winter shoulder seasons before I switch to the studded Nokian Hakkapeliita tires.

I have also struggled with what load rating to choose. Should I go with an LT tire (123S) or would I be fine with a 116T. I have not had any issues with the stock Falken AT3WA's which are only 113T rated. They just ran out of tread. My truck is mainly used on the highway commuting to work. I do tow a 21' travel trailer ~3500 lbs and load up the back to go camping. I also do light off-roading mainly on forest service roads.

Thanks
I'd go LT. LTs are more durable with higher load rating, and should give you more resistance to puncture should go over a sharp rock on forest service roads (that happens sometimes... had it happen)
However, LTs are significantly heavier (unsprung weight) so theoretically you MAY feel it and it MAY reflect on your fuel consumption, but with 3.92 gearing V8, I don't really feel the difference in MPG between the stock tires (i think the stock Rebel tires are LTs but not sure anymore... it's been way too long) and the 35s.

I'd say go with AT4w. Get a set of 5 so you can rotate them and have matching spare. I'd say go with 275/70/R18. about 1" bigger than the 275/65, 0.3" difference in width, and only .5lb heavier. Will look at lot better.
 

1BADRAMLIMITED

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I'd go LT. LTs are more durable with higher load rating, and should give you more resistance to puncture should go over a sharp rock on forest service roads (that happens sometimes... had it happen)
However, LTs are significantly heavier (unsprung weight) so theoretically you MAY feel it and it MAY reflect on your fuel consumption, but with 3.92 gearing V8, I don't really feel the difference in MPG between the stock tires (i think the stock Rebel tires are LTs but not sure anymore... it's been way too long) and the 35s.

I'd say go with AT4w. Get a set of 5 so you can rotate them and have matching spare. I'd say go with 275/70/R18. about 1" bigger than the 275/65, 0.3" difference in width, and only .5lb heavier. Will look at lot better.
Well said and great info!

I vote the kmc’s in -18!!
 

Syrio

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I'd go LT. LTs are more durable with higher load rating, and should give you more resistance to puncture should go over a sharp rock on forest service roads (that happens sometimes... had it happen)
However, LTs are significantly heavier (unsprung weight) so theoretically you MAY feel it and it MAY reflect on your fuel consumption, but with 3.92 gearing V8, I don't really feel the difference in MPG between the stock tires (i think the stock Rebel tires are LTs but not sure anymore... it's been way too long) and the 35s.

I'd say go with AT4w. Get a set of 5 so you can rotate them and have matching spare. I'd say go with 275/70/R18. about 1" bigger than the 275/65, 0.3" difference in width, and only .5lb heavier. Will look at lot better.
This is excellent information. Thank you boogielander.

I am continuing my search with your information. I can see the KMC Terra wheels come in a -10 offset. Would this give me a small amount of poke? Otherwise, with a 0mm offset would I expect to see my tires flush? (the -10mm are harder to find in stock where I look) As seen in the photo above I do not have any wheel flares. I have continued my search with LT tires in mind. It will depend on price and availability but I still like the Nokians and Falkens. Although the AT4W is harder to find in Canada. From what I can see I can get an excellent deal on the Nokians and I have had some excellent feedback from people around me.

Another question I had was regarding the slightly taller tire you recommend. Would it be necessary to program the ECU for this small change in tire size? I would assume it is fine.

Again thank you for your reply. Once I finally make a decision and get them I will be sure to post a picture!

Cheers
 

boogielander

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This is excellent information. Thank you boogielander.

I am continuing my search with your information. I can see the KMC Terra wheels come in a -10 offset. Would this give me a small amount of poke? Otherwise, with a 0mm offset would I expect to see my tires flush? (the -10mm are harder to find in stock where I look) As seen in the photo above I do not have any wheel flares. I have continued my search with LT tires in mind. It will depend on price and availability but I still like the Nokians and Falkens. Although the AT4W is harder to find in Canada. From what I can see I can get an excellent deal on the Nokians and I have had some excellent feedback from people around me.

Another question I had was regarding the slightly taller tire you recommend. Would it be necessary to program the ECU for this small change in tire size? I would assume it is fine.

Again thank you for your reply. Once I finally make a decision and get them I will be sure to post a picture!

Cheers
you're very welcome my friend.
-10 would give you a small amount of poke. My setup is -12mm and it only pokes a little bit, not the type of massive bro-dozer big wheel thin tire bluetooth driveshaft kind of poke. So you'll be just fine!
Tbh I've never heard of Nokians until you brought it up lol. The closest thing I've heard was Nokia LOL i mean when i buy tires I buy sets of 5s and then do 5 tires rotations, or if I know I'm staying with that brand and model of tires I'll just do 5 and then 4 and 4 after. I care more about future replacement availability, not just immediate future but long term. If Nokian is what you can get easily and they'll be around in the next few years then go for them!

for the ECU to be honest it's just personal preference. I've ran my previous rig for years without programming the speedo, and i'm sure my speedo, odo, and mpg readout was probably slightly off but not to the point that it's way off. It's pretty easy to do, all you need is AlfaOBD, bypass module, OBD split cable, and a OBD interface. Literally done in 10 minutes!
 

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