Has anyone installed proper midbass 6x9s in the doors?

[cipherbreak]

I had CDT speakers on my previous car and they were great. They are, however, more expensive than some of the mainstream offerings.

 

[SacRebel]

That’s what I’ll be doing but I’m in no rush. Will wait to read some reviews from others first.

 

[mch]

I installed the "CL-69SUB/CF.2 - CDT Audio 6X9" 2 ohm Mid / Subwoofer" speakers without any real issues (in the rear doors only). I ran down to Harbor freight to get some metal Auto Trim tools, as the plastic ones weren't strong enough. I'd recommend start from the bottom, prying so you can see where the tabs "poke" into the door frame. Use the tool and pry apart. I had a few slip out of the mount position on the panel, and stick in the door (frame side). They were real easy to get out of the door once the panel was hanging (I gave up on messing with the door opening cable, so just let it hang. Once I did the one side, the other went pretty quick.

I checked speaker polarity, and it matched what the Crutchfield installation instructions stated. The cables that were supposed to be positive (according to Crutchfield), were going to the positive on the speakers. I had to swap the pins on the Metra 72-6514 Speaker Harness to match the original polarity.

I did use some Noico 80 mil sound deadener. It was real easy to work with. It looks like the door already had a similar sound deadening material in spots. I used a little less than 3 feet for both doors. If you bought 10 feet of it, that would be more than plenty for all the doors in your truck. You could probably get real anal with covering every inch, but I really didn't see the need, and it would be a pain in the *** working just through the 6x9 opening.

I was prepared to unpin the Active Noise Cancelling mics, but I had no issues in the quick drive around my neighborhood.

That being said, (edited after a day of use) the sound quality was better. The bass seemed a little tighter and cleaner, but I felt it made the fronts and the sub seemed a little sloppier sounding. The rear speakers other than the actual sub-woofer haven't been too noticeable to me in the past. I played with the EQ, putting most of the sound to the back, and that was pretty uneventful. They seem to work well with the other speakers, but I'm going to replace the front speakers within the next couple weeks and likely put in a sub-woofer / speaker box sometime after the summer. Putting in better 6x9's do improve the sound quality, but they are no substitute for an actual 10" sub.

Here's some pics: https://photos.app.goo.gl/QfwJNNZikauHTroR7

 

[mch]

I got my 2nd pair of 2 ohm "CL-69SUB/CF.2 - CDT Audio 6X9" and installed after work. The overall system sounds good, and no Active Noise Cancellation issues. I did the same things I did with the back doors, but I put some "Uxcell a15011200ux0421 Black 5m 16.5ft Length Car Speaker Sealing Tape" I bought on Amazon for $6 that was perfect for sticking on the speaker mount hole before installing the speakers. I did run into a couple problems. The windows seem to be running into some binding going up (like half way up). The driver side goes through the normal motion and closes, but the passenger would strain a little, then go back down. I finally got it to go all away up by pushing the up button in quick bursts. I did pull the door panel again and pulled the door cable more out of the door frame. It went up after that, and thought everything was good, but it did it like the next time. This go around, I used a lot bigger pieces of the sound deadener, and I'm thinking there may be some clearance issues in some spots. I over-lapped with some of the OEM stuff already there, so I'll take a look again tomorrow (it was starting to get dark) and possible trim or remove some pieces. The 2nd issue was that the inner plastic door panel the speaker actually sits in is rattling real bad with the added base. I had to turn the base down a bit from my previous settings, and it sounds pretty good. I may have to put some sound deadening material on that inner panel, but figure it would be a pain trying to get the outer panel to fit back on the door.

 

[wildh24]

I got my 2nd pair of 2 ohm "CL-69SUB/CF.2 - CDT Audio 6X9" and installed after work. The overall system sounds good, and no Active Noise Cancellation issues. I did the same things I did with the back doors, but I put some "Uxcell a15011200ux0421 Black 5m 16.5ft Length Car Speaker Sealing Tape" I bought on Amazon for $6 that was perfect for sticking on the speaker mount hole before installing the speakers. I did run into a couple problems. The windows seem to be running into some binding going up (like half way up). The driver side goes through the normal motion and closes, but the passenger would strain a little, then go back down. I finally got it to go all away up by pushing the up button in quick bursts. I did pull the door panel again and pulled the door cable more out of the door frame. It went up after that, and thought everything was good, but it did it like the next time. This go around, I used a lot bigger pieces of the sound deadener, and I'm thinking there may be some clearance issues in some spots. I over-lapped with some of the OEM stuff already there, so I'll take a look again tomorrow (it was starting to get dark) and possible trim or remove some pieces. The 2nd issue was that the inner plastic door panel the speaker actually sits in is rattling real bad with the added base. I had to turn the base down a bit from my previous settings, and it sounds pretty good. I may have to put some sound deadening material on that inner panel, but figure it would be a pain trying to get the outer panel to fit back on the door.

Yeah I had to check my windows too before putting back together and tape the harnesses to the basket all they wouldn't hit the window.

In regards to the deadening material and railing. I was able to put a fair amount on it without problem. Try to really apply and mold it to the back side of the speaker mold. That seemed to help a fair amount.

Also, I thought I had rattling but it turned out to be the nuts for the door panel screws. Tightened them up.... Gone.

 

[mch]

Yeah I had to check my windows too before putting back together and tape the harnesses to the basket all they wouldn't hit the window.

In regards to the deadening material and railing. I was able to put a fair amount on it without problem. Try to really apply and mold it to the back side of the speaker mold. That seemed to help a fair amount.

Also, I thought I had rattling but it turned out to be the nuts for the door panel screws. Tightened them up.... Gone.

I used a zip tie to snug the metra harness against the speaker, so I don't think that is it. I'm not seeing scuff marks on my tint (so it's likely not a speaker issue).

Here;s a pic: https://photos.app.goo.gl/wW7YraQCYz92adjX9

 

[mch]

I pulled the speakers and noted the window went up smoothly. Upon inspection of the window component through the 6x9 hole, I noted that the window mechanism was scuffed, and looked to be slightly dragging on the speaker (pic below). I got a file into the door and filed the edges a bit. I thought that was good enough, but added another layer of foam speaker tape, and put 1 washer each behind each speaker mount screw (left a little gap at the screw hole on the 2nd layer of foam tape). I tested it and there was just a minor part of the window movement where it drags just a bit, but it closes. If anyone is considering CDT speakers for the front, you may just get the shallow mount speaker and eliminate any hassle. I put some sound deadener on various parts of the inner panel while I had it all off. It does rattle a bit. These speakers put out a significant amount of base. I had considered running a 4 channel amp to the door speakers when I get my sub-woofer amp & speaker box installed, but I think it would be too much for those doors.

 

[rceagle1a]

My Kicker 43DSC69304 fit the front doors. 3-1/4" mount depth according to crutchfield (I didn't actually measure before I put them in).

How did they sound? I also plan to replace the dash speakers as well as adding a center dash speaker as well

 

[chithead]

Good read - I have a pair of the Image Dynamics XS69 woofers from our Grand Cherokee and was curious if they might fit into the Ram doors without issues. Looks like some further research is required...

 

[vinnie45acp]

Uxcell a15011200ux0421 Black 5m 16.5ft Length Car Speaker Sealing Tape

I ordered a pair of the CDT CL-69SUB/CF.2's. Will probably stick them in the rear, and if all goes smooth, order a second pair for the front. Crutchfield indicates a Metra 71-050 adapter is needed. After looking for them on e-bay, etc., I found another forum saying the Metra 72-6514 is the replacement adapter, but that the Polarity is reversed from the 71-050. For anyone who has installed the doors, and used the 72-6514, were you re-pinning them, cutting the connectors off and swapping polarity, installing as is, etc.

I was told by many other threads that the 71-050 is the correct adapter to use even though it is only carried by Crutchfield, even the Metra site says they are still researching the adaptor for our Trucks at this time as of TODAY and it is definitely not the 72-6514, all sites Metra, Amazon and Crutchfield say to not use that one. So I went with the 71-050 from Crutchfield and will just try my lick that way. Ordered them yesterday.

 

[vinnie45acp]

Are the HK speakers 2 ohm or 4 ohm? this is a very important question that I feel most of us need answered that have that system in our trucks, for the system to run right for the specific ohm speakers we choose, please advice, I have a order on hold and am going with either 4 ohm or 2 ohm with the info provided

 

[wildh24]

Are the HK speakers 2 ohm or 4 ohm? this is a very important question that I feel most of us need answered that have that system in our trucks, for the system to run right for the specific ohm speakers we choose, please advice, I have a order on hold and am going with either 4 ohm or 2 ohm with the info provided

All are 4 ohm.

 

[sizmtrz]

My Kicker 43DSC69304 fit the front doors. 3-1/4" mount depth according to crutchfield (I didn't actually measure before I put them in).

whats been your experience with these 6x9's so far? thanks

 

[Whiskey_tango]

I like them. I am by no means an audiophile, but I am happy with them. I will say I didn't get much bass out of them and subsequently put a sub in.

 

[sizmtrz]

I like them. I am by no means an audiophile, but I am happy with them. I will say I didn't get much bass out of them and subsequently put a sub in.

Thanks, I'm adding a JL audio 10" sub so I should be good. Question though, did you have do modify anything to fit these to the front doors? I ask because crutchfield says these only fit the back doors. Thanks again.

 

[mch]

What kind of system do you have? If you have an Alpine or a HK, the front and rear doors are just bass. If you were to stick a coax 6x9 and powered by the OEM amp, the tweeters won't play anything because the system doesn't send those frequencies to the speakers. I have some CDT 6x9 speakers in my alpine system, and have a slight clearance issue on the front doors. I actually bought some 5.25" CDT speakers, but going to power them with an aftermarket amp and do the install once the weather cools down. CDT does make a couple nice SLIM speakers, if you went that route, they would mount right in with use of a Metra adapter harness. https://www.cdtaudio.com/6x9/6x9_series.htm

 

[Whiskey_tango]

Thanks, I'm adding a JL audio 10" sub so I should be good. Question though, did you have do modify anything to fit these to the front doors? I ask because crutchfield says these only fit the back doors. Thanks again.

No mods required. However only 2 screw holes lined up. If you want to get 4 screws in, then you will need to drill the 2 other holes in the plastic door mount.

Oh, BTW which JL did you go with? My Alpine Type r 8 sounds great but I am already thinking about a JL 10 for more bass depth.

 

[sizmtrz]

Well, ordered the parts today so I guess we’ll see how it go’s. It started as a base 8.4” 6 speaker... Im replacing the factory stuff with Kicker CS series all around. 3.5, 6.5, and 6x9. For the sub I went with Polk MM 1042 10” in a sealed box I had already. All powered by a Pioneer GM D9705 5ch. At 75 x4 and 300 x 1. Its all lower end stuff, but its a start, and I’m build up if I buy out the lease.

 

[sizmtrz]

You guys were not kidding about the difference replacing the 3.5’s in the dash makes. The rear door 6x9 went smooth, but those are producing much lower volumes compared to the factory speaker. Frnt doors will go in tonight. Im assuming the volume isssue will be similar to the rears. Plugging in speakers is one thing, but an amp install seems pretty involved so I may have a shop do that this weekend.

 

[2Fast-4U]

cdt has a lot of options. https://cdtaudio.com/6x9/6x9_series.htm

i'm planning on going with something from them. just have to figure out if there's room for the CL-69 SUBCF to fit.

Have you pulled the trigger on the CDT Speaker swap?? Interested to see how it sounds. I believe I have settled on the CDT CL-69S.2, slim 2 ohm speakers for all 4 doors. I think that is the best option for fitment and closest match to 2 ohm factor speakers but a considerable upgrade. I talked to Ken at CDT yesterday and they put them in a 2019 Ram and said it sounds great with the factory head unit, only swapping speakers.