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FIXED(almost) completely dead electrical system. No crank no start no dash

Draconicus Mechanicus

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Just had power problems about four hours ago during a run into town, just got home with AAA. Going to call FCA about towing it to the local dealer tomorrow after work.

Remote started the truck, grabbed stuff from the house, and got in and left. Got a mile or so down the road when a message on the dash came on, "Battery Saver On Some Systems may have Reduced Power". Didn't know what that meant so I took a photo and carried on with the intent to look into it when I got back home. Pulled up the battery voltage on the dash to keep an eye on it, if it was low I was going to turn around and park it back in the driveway. It read 15.2V while driving, and 14.2-14.3 when start-stop activated at the two traffic lights I got stopped at. It restarted on it's own as normal both times and voltage went back up to the 15V area, nothing acted strange, I thought it was no big deal. Went a couple more miles down the road to the store I was going to, parked, shut off, and opened the door to get out. As soon as I opened the door, all interior power cut off as if the battery suddenly died. No shutdown splash screen like normal, dome lights went out, everything dead. Ignition button does nothing, no locks, no windows, nothing shows on the dash screen or radio, the only sign that there's any electricity at all is the foot well lights still functioning. Battery shows 11.9V on the multimeter, 12V+ if I let it sit disconnected for a bit. Seems to hold pretty steady at 11.99-11.97. Pulled a bunch of fuses and relays with no change or noticeable damage, large fuses all look good, pulled the B+ input to the fuse box and scrapped it off but there was no corrosion, ditto with the battery terminals, everything looked completely fine. Just, no power to anything except the foot well lights. The headlights function if I turn the dial, no warning dinging or any sign of life at all on the dash still. No button backlighting illuminations.

I did have an issue in May, the day my free trial of the app connected services ended. The truck wasn't recognizing the key fobs, and told me such on the dash. I fixed that by leaving the battery unhooked for 45 minutes and putting my battery charger on it, I don't know which of those two things was the solution but I'm wagering it was the battery unhooked part of the deal resetting the RFH. It did the same thing again a few weeks after that but fixed itself by the time I grabbed tools to unhook the battery. Zero issues since. But it's never just completely lost power on me.

I the only modifications I have made besides programming is the ACC upgrade, zero issues from then until now. In June I added a Blackvue DR750X, fuse tapped and set to shutdown at a highish voltage, somewhere in the high 11's IIRC, it's been like that since then and hasn't caused any issues even if I don't touch the truck for days at a time. I commute to work on a motorcycle so the truck really only gets used when I'm transporting something that can't fit in a backpack. I've never had any problems with the truck besides the two times it didn't like the key fobs, and both times it just kinda fixed itself with no dealer intervention. It's never been to the dealer or messed with to any real extent as far as electrical goes, the fuse taps just plug in where the normal fues goes so no cut wires or anything there. Both those fuses look good, I reseated them with no changes. Guess I could try removing the taps and putting new fuses in the slots, see if the blackvue is causing the problems. I would think if the dash cam was internally shorted it wouldn't cause this, as it's on a low amperage fuse, I can't remember if it was 5 or .5 amp, whatever the instructions wanted is what I put in, the passthrough side got the stock 10amp fuses put back in.

I've seen a few others with battery issues very similar if not exactly what I'm having, and the solution being a new 12V battery. I'll let the dealer try that for me as I don't want to buy a new battery and not be able to return it if the problem persists. Right now, I have the battery out and on a charger, I'll leave it there until tomorrow afternoon and see if that changes anything. Whether or not it does, I'm giving the dealership a call and having them look at it, that's what the warranty is for and I'm at 11K miles and owned this truck since November last year, well within the coverage limits. But I'd like to at least be able to roll my drivers window up before it sits at the dealership, as that was down when I parked and can't be rolled up without getting the truck's ignition button to do something. For now, trash bag and tape will do to keep the bugs out, and hopefully the rain that's coming in a few days. If anyone has any suggestions I'm all ears, otherwise I'll keep y'all updated with any changes and what the dealership says.
 

Draconicus Mechanicus

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Sounds like a battery issue.
Just seems odd to me that the voltage was good while driving and even while in it's auto-shutoff state at stops, but when actually turned off it would shut down all power, still show almost 12V, not wake up any of the body modules, and the whole time not throw any sort of indications there's a problem besides "Hey, you're in battery saver mode!" Unless I memorized the manual, how would I know battery saver mode means there's a charging problem if the voltage was good the whole time and it didn't illuminate any dummy light or give me a CEL. Seems very odd, but after a few hours of reading I'm leaning towards a bad battery as well and trying to track one down I can get tonight. I think I've found a 94R/H7 Optima yellow top in town, I'm going to head over after dinner and see if I can snag it. I'm also finding it odd that the truck was reporting 14+V while auto-off at stops, and 11.9 after the issue and I checked with a multimeter.

I did forget to say, while I was waiting on AAA, my brother came over in my moms Explorer and we hooked up the jumpers because this was similar but not the same to the last problem I had, it didn't help but we didn't really leave it there for an extended time either since the voltage was good. I'm not used to new vehicles, my previous newest vehicle besides the Tacoma I had for a short time was a 98 4Runner, but most of my driving time is in a 95 Hardbody. Both of those trucks didn't give a single **** about voltage, if you had really any number above 9 they would run. With all the computers in this Ram, is 11.9 not good enough to get the BCM to wake up, am I just behind the times in automotive knowledge? I'm mostly a shadetree guy so I'm not THAT good with this stuff, but all that I know is on old vehicles.
 

mkling

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Voltage when running is going to be that high because it’s measuring output from your alternator. You need to test the battery with multimeter after it’s off and rested a while. Measuring under 12 volts sounds like you may have a bad battery
 

Draconicus Mechanicus

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12V battery is by far the likeliest culprit. Once the truck is running, the 48V system handles things, including stepping down the voltage to run everything on the 12V system.
Voltage when running is going to be that high because it’s measuring output from your alternator. You need to test the battery with multimeter after it’s off and rested a while. Measuring under 12 volts sounds like you may have a bad battery
I guess that's where I'm at right now. I found a 94R optima yellow top in stock, grabbing that in an hour or so. I'll throw in my vote on the dead battery thread if this ends up being the problem.


Adding a photo of the message.
 

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bigdodge

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Voltage when running is going to be that high because it’s measuring output from your alternator. You need to test the battery with multimeter after it’s off and rested a while. Measuring under 12 volts sounds like you may have a bad battery
the op in the first post said they have start stop so they probably have the etorque and that does not use an alternator
 

Draconicus Mechanicus

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Okay, so we've made some progress, or rather, have some more information.

Got a new Optima Yellow 94R in there, part number DH7 from AutoZone. Measured 12.3V before I hooked it up to the truck, got it in there and no change. Slapped a jump pack on there, brought it up to 12.45V steady, still zero change. I took the battery connections back off, rechecked for corrosion, and put them back on. When I did that, I just so happened to be looking in the cab, and noticed the interior lights flashing. I thought it was random, but no, every time I unhook the battery and put it back on, the lights flash 5 times with long pauses in between. Maybe it's some kind of code, BCM saying there's a communication error or something? I didn't notice it doing that before, but I was also not looking for it and it was mid afternoon and sunny, so I wouldn't have seen it out of the corner of my eyes, would have had to have been actively looking for it to notice it. My homelink functions as expected, I think that's its own enclosed module but it's about the only thing that works right now. The dim foot light is still illuminated (pretty sure it's the one that's on while driving), the bright one comes on with the rest of the interior lights flashing that same sequence The tailgate light seems to function as normal, I noticed it while I was walking back with the jump pack and it turned off on its own, seems like it's timed normally for the exterior puddle lights. I didn't notice the mirror lights on but they may have been. I dunno, weird stuff going on. Leaving the new battery on the tender overnight and checking again tomorrow afternoon when I call for a service appointment. The old battery was on the tender for many hours and the tender still was in charging mode, never went over to tending mode. Granted, that's not really a test, but it's something at least. At any rate, it's not going back in the truck, I'm leaving the Optima in there. OEM battery is stamped 04/10/2021, I'm assuming it means MM/DD/YYYY as I'm pretty sure that's around the time my truck was built, so the unit itself is right at a year and a half. I've owned the truck 11 months, right in the window for when the unlucky people are getting battery failures, except for me a new battery seems to not be fixing the issue.

I'm still stuck on how the truck was powered normally with the engine off until the door was opened if the 12V battery really is the issue. I don't know enough about the 12-48 connection though, maybe the 48V battery stays hooked to the 12 until it gets the shutdown signal from the door opening, I have no idea.
 

OldMarine

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same thing happened to me a few weeks ago. Truck was completely normal one day...very next morning, went to start it, electrical systems went haywire for a few seconds, then dead. Checked battery with meter...7-8 v's!! Off to NAPA for new battery...everything went right back to normal. Even though your battery is "new", it could be, and most likely is junk.
 

rws1944

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I hope all you guys headed out for a new battery are going with an AGM H8 instead of the H7. Swapped out my OEM H7 lead acid that came with my 2019 Hemi after the battery died at 7k miles. Went with an Interstate H8 AGM for about $250.00. No battery issues since that time.
 

ktl5005

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2019 Limited crapped the bed at 30k miles. Dead factory
Battery, wouldn’t hold a charge. New AGM solved issues. Had to have dealer flash the ABS module to relearn but that was it
 

Draconicus Mechanicus

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I hope all you guys headed out for a new battery are going with an AGM H8 instead of the H7. Swapped out my OEM H7 lead acid that came with my 2019 Hemi after the battery died at 7k miles. Went with an Interstate H8 AGM for about $250.00. No battery issues since that time.
I went with an H7 because that was what I could get locally yesterday and figured an Optima would be a good choice. It didn't fix the issue last night and I left it on the tender overnight with the plan of putting it back in this afternoon after work to see if that does it. Unfortunately on the way in to work this morning someone merged lanes right into me on my motorcycle, so I've been dealing with that the last seven hours. Just got back from the hospital with no broken bones and a lot of swelling and pain and orders to stay off the leg as much as possible, so I can't really mess around with it. It's just getting the new battery put in and towed to the local dealer for warranty repair while I figure out insurance on this bike.

In other news, anyone in SoCal wanna buy a Ninja 400? It's in mint condition if you squint enough!
 

HemiDude

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I feel you on the bike pain - sorry to read that but glad you're well enough to tell about it. The week has to get better from here, right? 😉
 

Draconicus Mechanicus

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I feel you on the bike pain - sorry to read that but glad you're well enough to tell about it. The week has to get better from here, right? 😉
I hope so, I need the truck so I can get to work just to not do anything! Dang Military, can't stay home when you're broken, always some paperwork to do and people to manage, but I can't really complain other than my commute time doubling now that I can't lane split.

I should go ask my brother to put the battery in for me and see if I can at least roll my window up, the trash bag and tape isn't to my liking. Anyone know if the window is CAN controlled or can I jump power to it to get it up? I'm assuming it's all on the network, being that almost everything else is that you wouldn't expect to be, haven't really found an answer to that. I guess it's not as big of an issue as the parking brake being stuck on, I hope the dealership can figure something out about that. You'd think there would be an emergency bypass for that, given there's one for the transmission.


UODATE: New battery in, no change.
 
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Draconicus Mechanicus

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Okay, of all things the tow truck driver stellantis sent fixed the truck. Issue was a nut on the number two fuse box input fell off. I didn't notice, but the drive saw the witness mark from a nut that was no longer there. Pushed the area down with a pen, it arced, and truck came to life. Put a spare nut on, started the truck, everything works. So not going to the dealer given there's a very reasonable explanation. I might take it in and let them change the oil and ask if they'll look at it and document the issue for me. But that'll be later, when I'm not hobbling around.

So, if there's electrical issues suspect battery but check the bolts in the side. In the first box diagram, it's unlabeled but is linked to the battery input. From the left fender looking too the trucks right side, the top right bolted connection at the fuse box is battery. My problem was the but on the bolted connection to the left of that, position two on the diagram but it's not labled. It should have a nut on it as it's actually linked to position one.
 

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mkling

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Weird. Awesome you got it sorted out. Good catch by that tow truck driver.
Hope you get feeling better. Sounds like a rough day. Bet your gonna be sore tomorrow.
 

Draconicus Mechanicus

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Sore, but a little happier I can transport myself now. And hey, maybe someone else will find this thread useful, I have no idea how I missed that nut missing but a round mark present and visible, I just assumed no marked location on the fuse box lid meant nothing was supposed to be there like that fifth stud and left it at that. Should have looked a bit closer. I was stranded at an OReilly's yesterday when it got towed home, could have had it fixed and drove down like I was planning to this morning. Oh well, one more simple thing I should have noticed to remember for next time. For now I'm going to loctite all the nuts present to hopefully prevent future issues.
 

OCD Solutions

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Damn, good catch and just proves to not overlook the simple things.

I did something similar years ago. Out wheelin and the truck just died on a slight incline. Checked everything I could think to check and then walked several miles home, got a buddy and another truck and towed it back to my shop. We're all scratching our heads and going through the systems and my buddies kid pulls up a black #14 wire and asks if this is supposed to be hooked up to something. It was on the ground side of things so we hadn't even given it a second thought since the main ground was connected but once reconnected, the truck fired up. The truck was new to me and it didn't come with a battery hold-down so as I went up the hill, the battery slid back and the wire connector pulled apart. Guess what I bought first thing monday morning.
 
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