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First Oil Change 2021 Ram 1500 Big Horn Crew Cab 5.7L

frostmen

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I've read through some of the threads and seeing different opinions. I bought my truck in 01/2021 and it has 3,800 miles with 230 engine hours, most miles are city. I live in Florida and temps are in the 90's now. Owner's manual refers to oil change indicator system, but not sure what or how this displays as the manual does not state this. I have the base instrument panel as well. I called the Dealer and got two different answers, one said wait for the Oil change indicator to display and the other stated 5,000 miles. I'm thinking change at 4,000 miles due to the heat and city miles. Concerned about this so if anyone has input I would appreciate comments.
 

Jako

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It took me some time to set up my instrument panel the way I like it. I have the oil life % on my display. I'd be surprised if you are unable to do this.
Let the dealership do the first oil change, the filter can be tough to get off.
I changed my oil probably a few miles less than what you have now.

I do not know hat you have read so far but here is some info.
 

frostmen

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I appreciate your response Jako, and thanks for the link for more information. Forgot to mention but my oil life is 43%, but I think it's time to change the oil now.
 

kdoublep

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I use penzoil platinum and change every 5-6000 miles. Most my miles are hwy as I travel for work. My indicator is usually at about 25% if I recall correctly. I have 15000 miles on truck and it's only 10 months old. About to do my 3rd change. I just try to stick to 5 or 6K regardless of indicator %.
 

SD Rebel

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I appreciate your response Jako, and thanks for the link for more information. Forgot to mention but my oil life is 43%, but I think it's time to change the oil now.

I would just change it, especially for your first one. Regardless of mileage or indicator, do not go beyond 1 year if you want to keep your power train warranty.
 

brian42

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I did my first change at 7500 miles. After that I've changed it when the oil life % gets to 5% or less.

I know that the oil life "calculator" takes other factors into consideration besides miles driven but I drive about 20k miles/year so I'm pretty much on the 10K mile plan for oil changes.

You will get plenty of opinions and differing answers but I use a good full synthetic every oil change (Pennzoil Ultra Plantinum - which is different than Pennzoil Platinum) and go 'the distance' of about 10K for my oil change interval.

There's plenty of arguments for going 10K miles between oil changes and even more for sooner. To me that's overkill if you're using a good oil. You can also read about oil weights, moly, and custom blends until your head spins.

With all the current technology in manufacturing vehicles and quality lubrication products, long gone are the "old days" where frequent care of vehicles made a difference in performance and longevity. Sure good choices make a difference, but spark plugs last 100K miles instead of 30K miles, you don't need to change your oil every 3K miles (or change the oil 3 times in the first 1500 miles for a new engine), you don't need to change your spark plug wires and distributor cap every 15K miles, and you definitely don't need to check your ignition timing every month (how many people even know what a timing gun is nowadays?).

My last truck (with an old big block diesel) was absolutely brutal on engine oil and I would go 5K miles between changes on conventional oil. If conventional oil can take that kind of abuse for 5K miles then a good synthetic can easily make it 10K miles in my gas 5.7L. 43K miles with "only" 4 oil changes and my 5.7L has been trouble-free every mile.

Just my .02
 

cj7

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Did my first at 2500, then every 7500 after that.
For me, the oil life indicator tracks the odometer, aiming for a 10k change.
 

brian42

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For me, the oil life indicator tracks the odometer, aiming for a 10k change.
I thought that as well but apparently there are other variables it considers as well.

I drive a lot with minimal idle time so mine pretty much tracks the odometer too.

These aren't from any official corporate website (and I don't endorse any of the resources) but they give some good info on what the oil life monitor is/does in these newer vehicles:


 

Mountain Whiskey

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I thought that as well but apparently there are other variables it considers as well.

I drive a lot with minimal idle time so mine pretty much tracks the odometer too.

These aren't from any official corporate website (and I don't endorse any of the resources) but they give some good info on what the oil life monitor is/does in these newer vehicles:


I don't claim any knowledge to how the oil life meter works but the truck tracks idle time too. It is a setting in the cluster. Only other vehicle I had that did that was a P71 Crown Vic.
 

cj7

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I thought that as well but apparently there are other variables it considers as well.

I drive a lot with minimal idle time so mine pretty much tracks the odometer too.

These aren't from any official corporate website (and I don't endorse any of the resources) but they give some good info on what the oil life monitor is/does in these newer vehicles:


Right. I’m sure there’s more too it, but like you, observed behavior for my driving (including towing) is linear.

That said, I’m going to try the Wix 51372XP filter, which is the same height, thread and gasket, but larger diameter than stock. Higher flow and psi ratings, and the filter media is much bigger. Will see how tight a fit. HD just happens to sell this one for half what Advance or Napa get for the normal 57060XP. Somebody also mentioned a taller version, but I haven’t found that yet.
 

brian42

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Right. I’m sure there’s more too it, but like you, observed behavior for my driving (including towing) is linear.

That said, I’m going to try the Wix 51372XP filter, which is the same height, thread and gasket, but larger diameter than stock. Higher flow and psi ratings, and the filter media is much bigger. Will see how tight a fit. HD just happens to sell this one for half what Advance or Napa get for the normal 57060XP. Somebody also mentioned a taller version, but I haven’t found that yet.
Let us know how it goes in and out, and if you think it makes a difference.

I have a 4x4 with the ORG so space is tight already and the OEM-size filter barely makes it out of there (I run a Mobil1 M1-113A filter).
 

bocco

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Just looked up Mopar filters on RockAuto and came up with 3 different part numbers plus a cartridge looking deal for the engine oil cooler. Is there really a seperate filter in the oil cooler?
 

UnloosedChewtoy

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Just looked up Mopar filters on RockAuto and came up with 3 different part numbers plus a cartridge looking deal for the engine oil cooler. Is there really a seperate filter in the oil cooler?
Are you sure you weren't just viewing the cartridge style oil filter that the V6 uses?

68507598AA, 68498720AA are filters for the 3.0L EcoD engine.
4892339AA, 4892339AB, 4892339BA, 4892339BB are all filters for the 5.7L Hemi.
68191349AA, 68191349AB, 68191349AC are all filters for the 3.6L Pentastar.

The "AA", "AB", etc. are just different part revisions. The further in the alphabet those last two characters are, the newer the part design/revision. I'd recommend you purchase the latest part revision possible for a part number, as a general rule of thumb, but it may not be necessary. Sometimes, some filter part #s are only available in large packs or other packaging, and there may not actually be a difference in their design.

EDIT: There are also other part numbers out there that are sometimes used, such as MO339 (MO-339). This is more of a "model number" and can be used to describe multiple revisions of the same filter. E.g. MO-339 can mean 4892339AA, 4892339AB, 4892339BA, or 4892339BB.
 
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SD Rebel

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Yup, just go to Walmart and get a Mopar MO-339, they are about $10, just picked up one today.
 

UnloosedChewtoy

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Yup, just go to Walmart and get a Mopar MO-339, they are about $10, just picked up one today.
I second that.
Can never go wrong with the OEM filter. I use Fram Ultra myself though. Better filtration (one of the best on the market), and usually cheaper than the Mopar units. Would never touch the FRAM orange cans with a ten foot pole, but their high end Ultras are very good.
 

SD Rebel

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Can never go wrong with the OEM filter. I use Fram Ultra myself though. Better filtration (one of the best on the market), and usually cheaper than the Mopar units. Would never touch the FRAM orange cans with a ten foot pole, but their high end Ultras are very good.

I'm honestly afraid to go with aftermarket oil filters while still under warranty, especially if I'm DIY myself. I don't want to give them any ammo in case there is an issue.

Once my 5 year powertrain warranty wears out, I'm going aftermarket!
 

UnloosedChewtoy

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I'm honestly afraid to go with aftermarket oil filters while still under warranty, especially if I'm DIY myself. I don't want to give them any ammo in case there is an issue.

Once my 5 year powertrain warranty wears out, I'm going aftermarket!

You must have some really bad dealerships around you. Mine's never given me any flak for common aftermarket items (like oil filters). Technically, its illegal for them to require you use their brand of filters for their warranty, although I once read (not verified it) that they could make it a requirement if they supplied them for free. Which I doubt any car maker will ever do.
 

SD Rebel

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You must have some really bad dealerships around you. Mine's never given me any flak for common aftermarket items (like oil filters). Technically, its illegal for them to require you use their brand of filters for their warranty, although I once read (not verified it) that they could make it a requirement if they supplied them for free. Which I doubt any car maker will ever do.

Honestly none of my dealerships have given me issues on aftermarket items like the oil filter in the past, but I haven't had any engines issues either to test their resolve.

But I've heard enough stories from folks in RAM forums to simply use the factory one, since there is no way I can get flak from a service advisor in case I do have an engine issue in the future.

I remember a couple of guys mentioning having the roller cam issue and having their aftermarket oil filter blamed. The dealership made up some sort of thing about failed anti-drain valve or something like that. Either way, it still led to a long fight before the dealership finally did something. I don't see enough value in an aftermarket oil filter that would make it worth the risk over the quality and price of the Mopar one that is fine anyways. At least not while under the powertrain warranty.
 

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