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F26 vs F29

mgbabb

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What is the difference between F26 & F29 fuses? Are there (2) modules. I have wrecked 2020 1500 new edition, been hit in front. When I hook up batt. cables, brake lights are on, drivers side blinking, and F29 clicking. Cannot get truck out of park. Any ideas?
 

Scram1500

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F26 is the fuse people pull when they want to disable the the stability control. Do not know about F29
 

djevox

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One sec, I’ll send you some pictures
 

djevox

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Attached are some images of all the fuses on the interior fuse panel.
 

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djevox

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Here’s all the fuses from the power distribution center under the hood. Keep in mind that you might not have all the fuses listed in both fuse legends depending on the trim level.
 

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djevox

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Some things to keep in mind: fuses don’t click, they’re either blown or not. This means that there is probably a relay on the back of the fuse block that is clicking. It doesn’t necessarily have to go to F 29 if you feel it when you touch around F 29.

A good place to start would be to go to AutoZone or harbor freight and pick up a cheap OBD scanner that can read engine performance and body codes. That way you can make educated guesses as to what’s going on by eliminating codes.
Also, it would be good to pick up a cheap volt meter (DVOM) so you can check voltages properly. If you can, avoid using a test light especially if you are probing a control module. This is because the test light can send a tiny amount of amperage to the module and cause a failure. Edit: i’m talking about older style test lights. I’m not sure what the current market for test lights are. so there might be some affordable ones that prevent this.
 
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mgbabb

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Some things to keep in mind: fuses don’t click, they’re either blown or not. This means that there is probably a relay on the back of the fuse block that is clicking. It doesn’t necessarily have to go to F 29 if you feel it when you touch around F 29.

A good place to start would be to go to AutoZone or harbor freight and pick up a cheap OBD scanner that can read engine performance and body codes. That way you can make educated guesses as to what’s going on by eliminating codes.
Also, it would be good to pick up a cheap volt meter (DVOM) so you can check voltages properly. If you can, avoid using a test light especially if you are probing a control module. This is because the test light can send a tiny amount of amperage to the module and cause a failure. Edit: i’m talking about older style test lights. I’m not sure what the current market for test lights are. so there might be some affordable ones that prevent this.
Thank you so much for the info. The reason I said F29 is because when I pull it, the clicking stops (which is the taillight blinking). How do I gain access to the relay?
 

djevox

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Thank you so much for the info. The reason I said F29 is because when I pull it, the clicking stops (which is the taillight blinking). How do I gain access to the relay?
I’m not sure because I haven’t looked at a full schematic yet, so you’ll have to wait for somebody who is messed with a turn signal circuit or Google some. Since the truck ignition turns on, you should be able to retrieve codes and that will help you better than guessing. Again I don’t know, but I’m guessing LED lights will be the determining factor on if there are codes stored for the turn signal circuit.
 

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