F26 fuse bypass wired to Auxbeam help plz

[M3forged]

I'm pretty uneducated when it comes to wiring but I'm learning. Here's my question with some background first.

My trucks f26 fuse has to be pulled to completely disable stability control functions. A bypass switch works. I tried to wire that setup through my auxbeam instead and when I put the negative into the switch 1 negative terminal it immediately sparked and melted the wire. The positive was not hooked up yet. So I stopped there.

The wiring was spade connectors to the f26 fuse slot then there's the inline fuse (40amp) the positive wire and neg wire from that would normally go to the rocker switch. Slot 1 on the auxbeam has a 30 amp fuse. Any thoughts? Thank you.

 

[Jedi9]

You don't have a positive and negative wire at the fuse. They are both positive, 1 is pre fuse and one is post fuse protected. Grab the negative from a chassis ground or the negative battery terminal.

 

[theblet]

Yup. Seems like what you are trying to do is just inline switch that fuse. No negative power needed to it.

 

[M3forged]

Got it, one pos line from the fuse bypass to the pos on the switch in the circuit panel under the hood and just run a ground to the neg of that switch. Thank you very much!

 

[Jedi9]

That should do it. Are you sure there is a negative position on that switch? Is it a lighted switch?

 

[Jedi9]

Oh yeah, you have the auxbeam, yup ground the black wire. I was working on one yesterday

 

[M3forged]

Yep worked fine BUT I ran it to its own rocker switch anyway. Maybe it's a Canadian truck thing but the ignition has to be cycled off then back on in order for the system to go back to normal, flipping the switch alone doesn't do it.

 

[boogielander]

why are you messing with the stability control fuse? why do you need it on and off on the fly? if with the switch it has to be cycled off and then back on then that's the same thing as just turning it off with just holding the button. Why introduce another failure point? You could've got yourself a Tazer DT that can fully disable traction and then restart the truck to enable it again instead of these headache, and you can do more with it.

Also, it sounds like you wanted to use the harness you bought and wire that harness to your auxbeam, if i understood you correctly.
if you wanted to do this with a switched panel, you are not doing it correctly. You'd need a relay, since you are using the auxbeam as trigger. The harness by itself is a complete circuit with the amperage it requires for the stability control system to work, and that on/ off switch is just a switch that determines whether the circuit is completed or not (at the off position, continuity is cut off, so incomplete circuit that mimics pulled fuse). By adding auxbeam, you're turning the auxbeam bank 1 into a trigger, so you need a relay to receive that trigger signal to complete the "switch" in the relay to complete the circuit. THEORATICALLY, you COULD also forgo the harness you bought, find the receiving prong in the fuse box, send 30A power to that prong, and complete the circuit without using a relay. BUT that will leave your "sending" prong open, and could cause more problem.

sorry, but as a wiring guy, this is just not making sense.

 

[M3forged]

Thanks for the info boogielander, that's why I asked. I'm trying to learn. The story with the traction control is my 21 Rebel does not FULLY disengage that system by any means (I've tested every known method) unless the fuse is pulled. That seems to be a known issue which led me to the bypass option. I want to be able to disable it to well, F around, plain and simple. I understand the harness is a complete circuit, but in my limited knowledge of wiring I thought I could simply use the auxbeam as the switch, not realizing it would need its own separate ground. Now I know better.

 

[Scram1500]

You went about it in a complicated way but it works. A simple solution is a fuse switch, a toggle to interrupt the circuit. Been a while since I pulled F26 but think it was a Jcase. Can't seem to find one in that style but easy enough to make your own. @John Jensen has a great write up on how to use the Homelink button and a wireless toggle

 

[John Jensen]

Scram, Thanks for the kind words. Here is my data that may help the OP.

 

[boogielander]

Thanks for the info boogielander, that's why I asked. I'm trying to learn. The story with the traction control is my 21 Rebel does not FULLY disengage that system by any means (I've tested every known method) unless the fuse is pulled. That seems to be a known issue which led me to the bypass option. I want to be able to disable it to well, F around, plain and simple. I understand the harness is a complete circuit, but in my limited knowledge of wiring I thought I could simply use the auxbeam as the switch, not realizing it would need its own separate ground. Now I know better.

i figured lol
but honestly, as a wiring guy, I avoid messing around with stock wiring/ fusing as much as possible simply because... if something's messed up, it's gonna be expensive (and liability as well). Hence that lead me to TazerDT, since at the end, you still need to cycle the ign to enable it again, but with this you don't mess with the stock wiring nor fuse box at all, and if you need to take it off for some reason or other, you can just unplug it and no one will know.

i always tell my friends who want to attempt wiring to ask for confirmation before jumping in to do the work, because with the complexity of modern vehicles... it could be a big repair bill if something is messed up in the process. have fun!

 

[Koolaide324]

I'm pretty uneducated when it comes to wiring but I'm learning. Here's my question with some background first.

My trucks f26 fuse has to be pulled to completely disable stability control functions. A bypass switch works. I tried to wire that setup through my auxbeam instead and when I put the negative into the switch 1 negative terminal it immediately sparked and melted the wire. The positive was not hooked up yet. So I stopped there.

The wiring was spade connectors to the f26 fuse slot then there's the inline fuse (40amp) the positive wire and neg wire from that would normally go to the rocker switch. Slot 1 on the auxbeam has a 30 amp fuse. Any thoughts? Thank you.

There's an add a fuse included with your auxbeam that is placed in slot F26 which is to trigger the auxbeam power. Obviously the larger red and black cables go to + & - terminals. Your device will go to auxbeam #s 1-6