eTorque Bearing Replacement, Fixed Grinding Noise

[PurpleRT]

^ I think the issue is the availability of replacement alternator/generator thing from what I’ve read.. backordered for months leaving some people screwed.


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[Trooper4]

The Ram powertrain warranty covers the engine, transmission, and drivetrain for 5 years or 60,000 miles (whichever comes first), providing peace of mind against costly repairs due to defects in materials or workmanship.

 

[Driver]

MGU covered under 8/80 emissions warranty. Many dealers are unaware.

 

[Trooper4]

Isn't this covered under the emissions/hybred system, for 8yrs?

And 80k. He is at 88k

 

[TimKG]

I will say, the MGU is REALLY on there, probably because the long bolts were torqued pretty good and likely squeezed the aluminum snug.

Before anyone takes whacks at it, here's what I did because pounding at this thing probably isn't the best idea.
The following is MUCH safer and went really smoothly.

With all the bolts out, put some WD-40 on the hinge points where the long torqued bolts came out of.
Then with a curved pry bar, (see photo below) place it in the gap and push down to lift the side closest to you.
Mine pivoted on the opposite hinge point pretty easily with that kind of leverage and would only go so far with the air intake in place on the throttle body. If this happens to you, simply disconnect the intake from the throttle body and shift it out of the way.

The MGU has a friction fit threaded sleeve for the bolt threads that will back out but it's not necessary to do that for removal.
Mine came out when I was using the space as a way to separate the halves.
I had to then rock the unit back to it's original position a few times by reaching across the top and pulling it back toward me. The WD helped A LOT for that. I pryed and reset it a good 20+ times before that first circular alignment part came totally free (the part that wants to trick you into thinking it's a sleeve)
It got easy after that.
Take it easy be mindful of your pry bar position and you should have good success.

The MGU has to weigh a good 20 lbs so don't be surprised.

 

[TimKG]

Everything UpNorthEngineer documented in the original post is spot on! Particularly the resolver and reluctor damage.
The tolerances in there are tight. With that amount of failed bearing movement, this damage is totally logical. Hopefully it doesn't create significant issue down the road.

 

[TimKG]

In m
y unit the bad bearing was an SKF 6003 double sealed bearing. I was not able to read the bearing part number due to corrosion but I measured the shaft at 17mm, bearing OD at 35mm, and thickness at 10mm. This is a 6003 size bearing and it is double sealed. I have no idea what precision level bearing was installed from the factory. I went with a 6003-2RS double sealed bearing in ABEC 3 precision level. The bearing was in stock at McMaster Carr and I had it next day. McMaster Carr part number 6661K86. Cost about $40 without shipping.

I've been doing some research trying to validate the bearing.

It's clear by my destroyed bearing that the shields are metal with a rubber coating.

Not being an expert on bearings, I'm unsure if this is the same as a metal shielded bearing, a rubber sealed bearing, or a non-contact bearing, all with pros and cons.

Anyone have any insight on this?

The image is from The Benefits of Rubber Seals vs Metal Shielded Bearings

I'm also curious if you replaced or reused the retention clip?