Ecodiesel spotlighting problem! (PLEASE DONT COOK ME)

[bcole422]

I'll start off by saying I fully expect to receive grief for purchasing an ecodiesel and expecting it to comfortably tow a fairly large travel trailer. Unfortunately I'm upside down on the truck and I'm stuck with it. With that being said, I recently purchased a 9k LB travel trailer and I'm having some spotlighting problems. Truck pulls it just fine, but she sure is squatting. I'm fairly new to the RV life and towing big **** in general, so what can I do to remedy this spotlighting problem?

 

[OCD Solutions]

Easiest and simplest is to install an airbag system in the rear and adjust the pressure to get the truck level again.
I've always run the Firestone systems but there are plenty of good options on the market.
I skip the onboard compressor option and set my pressures manually to match my load.

Firestone Airide Automotive Aftermarket Air Helper Spring Kits

www.firestoneairide.com

 

[Willwork4truck]

Well now that you've explained that you have too much negative equity to trade up to a 2500/3500 SRW, you might mention how much you tow and where. However the rear squat problem has everything to do with your trailer's tongue weight vs your trucks payload. The average tongue weight is appx 12-13%, so your empty trailer could be taking a substantial part to all of your available payload.

Since I assume you don't go with an empty bed and by yourself, you are likely maxed out or worse as everything in the bed, the hitch and the extra people in the cab all count against payload. Your probable P rated tires aren't happy with that amount either.

To raise up the squat requires a) the proper truck, b) air lift/bags of some sort, c) a weight distributing hitch. Then there's d) adjusting your trailer loads so that there's not anything extra up front, like full propane tanks/batteries on the tongue or heavier items in the front room area.

If you live in Florida and pull on flat roads at 65 or slower, with max inflated tires and a good wdh and air bags, you could be ok for "limited" usage. I see peeps pulling too heavy all the time, and the news reports aren't full of horror stories about wrecks. It's just not a good practice at all.

To get more specific towing information, try the various rv forums. That's where you'll get a "proper" flaming but also read on how others in your situation have modded their trucks to be level.

I don't condone what you are doing as far as the safety of yourself and others aspect but I'm a realist - peeps buy the truck first instead of the other way around.

 

[Gren71]

Your could also look at progressive rate cargomax springs. They help a LOT with managing heavy tongue weight, and do it without sacrificing every day ride quality. Theyre also way easier to install and maintain then air bags.

Id suggest the xhd ones for you. They say theyre for 2009-2018 ram 1500, but they fit both DS and DT rams. I have the hd springs in my truck and they’re fantastic.

2009-2018 Dodge Ram 1500 Rear Extra Heavy Duty Variable Rate Coil Springs

General Spring provides heavy duty rear variable coil springs for 2009-2018 Ram 1500, 70% variable rate increase. Add capacity to Ram 1500 today!

www.generalspringkc.com

My TT isnt as heavy as yours, but my tongue weight is on the heavy side. Before the cargo max springs i was nose high no matter what i did, even with the wdh. Now im 1in higher in the rear WHILE fully loaded…camper…dogs in the bed…fire wood in the bed…family in the truck.

 

[silver billet]

Be aware that guys have damaged their frames using suspension helpers. I know that most get away with it no problem, but some have had issues.

All I'd recommend is to use a proper WDH. Sag under load is perfectly fine and should be expected, the truck is designed to work this way, as long as you're not bouncing off the bump stops.

 

[Willwork4truck]

Those cargomax springs could be a possibility yes. In years past I used overload leaves on an old Ferd, mostly because the stock springs were tired, but they did help.
A good rear sway bar (like a Hellwig) might keep loads from transferring too much side to side as well.
Do everything that you can to lighten your trailer tongue and keep the speeds down.

 

[Gren71]

Those cargomax springs could be a possibility yes. In years past I used overload leaves on an old Ferd, mostly because the stock springs were tired, but they did help.
A good rear sway bar (like a Hellwig) might keep loads from transferring too much side to side as well.
Do everything that you can to lighten your trailer tongue and keep the speeds down.

X2 on the hellwig! I also have that and its been a big help.

 

[bcole422]

I appreciate all the advice guys!

 

[bcole422]

Well now that you've explained that you have too much negative equity to trade up to a 2500/3500 SRW, you might mention how much you tow and where. However the rear squat problem has everything to do with your trailer's tongue weight vs your trucks payload. The average tongue weight is appx 12-13%, so your empty trailer could be taking a substantial part to all of your available payload.

Since I assume you don't go with an empty bed and by yourself, you are likely maxed out or worse as everything in the bed, the hitch and the extra people in the cab all count against payload. Your probable P rated tires aren't happy with that amount either.

To raise up the squat requires a) the proper truck, b) air lift/bags of some sort, c) a weight distributing hitch. Then there's d) adjusting your trailer loads so that there's not anything extra up front, like full propane tanks/batteries on the tongue or heavier items in the front room area.

If you live in Florida and pull on flat roads at 65 or slower, with max inflated tires and a good wdh and air bags, you could be ok for "limited" usage. I see peeps pulling too heavy all the time, and the news reports aren't full of horror stories about wrecks. It's just not a good practice at all.

To get more specific towing information, try the various rv forums. That's where you'll get a "proper" flaming but also read on how others in your situation have modded their trucks to be level.

I don't condone what you are doing as far as the safety of yourself and others aspect but I'm a realist - peeps buy the truck first instead of the other way around.

I'm currently towing a 8500 LB travel trailer with maybe 1500 LBS of cargo. It is just my dog and I, and the bed of my truck is only half full with maybe 300 LBS in it. I bought the truck with the intention of living in a much smaller travel trailer, and after purchasing said trailer, I quickly realized it was much too small.

 

[bcole422]

Those cargomax springs could be a possibility yes. In years past I used overload leaves on an old Ferd, mostly because the stock springs were tired, but they did help.
A good rear sway bar (like a Hellwig) might keep loads from transferring too much side to side as well.
Do everything that you can to lighten your trailer tongue and keep the speeds down.

The only Hellwig I see that fits my model (2022 ram 1500 ecodiesel longhorn) is the front sway bar. The rest are for TRX only, unfortunately

 

[Willwork4truck]

Search - Hellwig Products

www.hellwigproducts.com

​

Rear Sway Bar Kit 09-22 Dodge/Ram 1500 2WD/4WD 1" Diameter.​

Part Number: 7793

Fitment tab didn't say anything about it not fitting your truck.

Fits the following:​

• 2011 - 2024 Ram 1500
• 2009 - 2010 Dodge Ram 1500

 

[bcole422]

Search - Hellwig Products

www.hellwigproducts.com

​

Rear Sway Bar Kit 09-22 Dodge/Ram 1500 2WD/4WD 1" Diameter.​

Part Number: 7793

Fitment tab didn't say anything about it not fitting your truck.

Fits the following:​

• 2011 - 2024 Ram 1500
• 2009 - 2010 Dodge Ram 1500

Oh sweet, I see it now. Thanks!

 

[HemiDude]

If you can't change your truck/TT situation, please do yourself (and the rest of us) a big favor and get the best tires and brakes on the truck that you can. I don't think I need to explain what it looks and smells like when brakes go or a tire blows while 15k pounds is barreling down a steep grade.

 

[Willwork4truck]

That and properly set up the trailer brakes for the max weight. Practice with the tb controller to help you get it stopped straight.

 

[CalvinC]

Even that weight should be manageable with a proper setup.

By that I mean using a Weight Distribution hitch and arranging the cargo so that a) absolutely nothing other than strictly mandatory is in the truck (either cab or bed) and b) get tongue weight down around 13%, but not less than 10%.

If you are towing this with a cab full of passengers also, there is not likely much help other than to say, be careful.

Air bags etc. are just Band-Aids; they make it easier to do a thing wrong. They are fine once you've got all the other physics right.

 

[Willwork4truck]

Yep to above. Ultimately its either “bite the bullet” and get a gas 2500 or get a lighter trailer. Thats for long term peace of mind.

By the time you mod up a 1500 you've probably spent what a 2500 would have cost you. Its not so bad to admit that your wants have changed and get the right tool for the job. After all, its only money, and priorities can be adjusted.

 

[Gren71]

After all, its only money, and priorities can be adjusted.

Man…if only we were all in a position to live like that. Fact is the op already said upgrading the vehicle isnt an option and he already tried a smaller trailer that wasn’t enough for him. In a perfect world we could all have the perfect vehicle with the perfect options at the perfect price (free). But I think its unconstructive to only suggest what the guy already said he cant do.

Air bags , new rear springs , wdh , 10ply tires , rear seay bar upgrade, are all reasonably priced options that will cost drastically less than a new vehicle or trailer. And they will all individually, or combined, address the sag he is experiencing. There are plenty of people who safely pull on the heavier side with these trucks and do absolutely fine.

I my self have the upgraded rear springs and rear sway bar to help while pulling my tt. I look at 2500s often but until the price and opportunity are right ill make what I have work for me. Funny enough, i can say for sure my Gladiator handles the same TT easier than this ram…which is comical to even consider. The real advantage of the ram is its size when it comes to being safer when stopping and in higher winds and such.

 

[Willwork4truck]

I read his original post. What he left out is important, ie. how much usage, distances travelled, elevation and family size.

Coming from the Ferd world where payloads are higher and the power of the 3.5 eco or boost take your pick convinces owners they can tow the space shuttle. What nobody thinks about is braking, emergency maneuvers, frontal sail wind load and mountain pass descents.

There’s altogether too much of a “tail wagging the dog” possibility here. While it “can” be done it isn’t even close to comfortable to do.

If one is a weekender driving shorter distances then ok. If he is intending on climbing and descending mountain passes, likes traveling at the speed limit and carries more stuff than he planned on (typical) then its not a good match.

 

[nc_beagle]

A Longhorn likely isn't going to have much payload to start with. My limited has the Off Roaf Group, but no sunroof, MFT. or Ramboxes and it's 1317#. 12% of 9000# is 1080#, leaving not much payload for whatever is in the front or back of the truck.

All the advice here is good.

 

[Willwork4truck]

A Longhorn likely isn't going to have much payload to start with. My limited has the Off Roaf Group, but no sunroof, MFT. or Ramboxes and it's 1317#. 12% of 9000# is 1080#, leaving not much payload for whatever is in the front or back of the truck.

All the advice here is good.

My Ltd has nearly all the extra crap and has an 1170 lb payload. Its barely a "half-ton". Basically it's a station wagon with an open back. I have hauled plenty of bags of dirt, concrete blocks and such in it, the limiter is the short bed length as the air suspension just keeps on leveling it up. Stock P-rated tires would probably explode before the air pump did.