5thGenRams Forums

Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!

Draining the radiator

c3k

Ram Guru
Joined
Jul 22, 2020
Messages
1,135
Reaction score
1,247
Points
113
Age
64
I'm a big believer in early fluid changes. Yeah...100,000 mile/10 year coolant interval is what Mopar says. Other than cooling (and preventing freezing and boil over), coolant has sacrificial anode dissolved in it. Like the zinc block on a boat, it prevents the other metal from rotting and corroding. You know, stuff like aluminum and iron, etc. So, I change mine out every 2-3 years (or 4... Shrug.).

The drain plug on these trucks is a plastic "nut". It's more than just a nut. Here's a pic:



Plug and pen.jpg

That's a spare. I bought 2 spares, in case I broke the installed one. (Plastic nuts and metal tools. Sigh.) I figured I'd be immobilized if I screwed up. A spare was about $8 online. I bought 2. ;)

If you look closely, you'll see a rectangular piece of plastic molded into one of the visible faces on the hex. There are two of these "ears", the other on the opposite face.

Without these ears, a 16mm socket would fit. Well, the ears prevent that. An 18mm would fit over them. Luckily, a 10mm allen socket fits INSIDE the drain nut.

Here's what it looks like, end-on, with the measurements.

plug ears.jpg


Enough of that... FINDING the drain valve is a pain. It's hidden behind (what I think is) the intercooler hose. (<- I didn't look where that big hose came from, but that's my guess as I sit here typing this.)

It's at the driver's side, bottom, of the radiator. There's a little nipple under it. A 5/16" fuel hose fit on that perfectly, so I was able to direct the draining fluid straight into a bucket. Here are some shots of that.

Draining, socket in view.jpg

This is from the passenger side, looking up and left. I left the 10mm allen socket installed still, so it'd be easier to tighten it up.

From the driver's side, looking up:

Drivers side.jpg

It took maybe 30 minutes for the flow to reduce to just dripping. It completely emptied the reservoir, and I could hear more draining, as well. Obviously, the radiator emptied. I did this cold, so the block and heater core didn't drain. Easier than being scalded. ;)

Reservoir.jpg

^^^
(Just a shot while it was in the midst of draining. It ended up emptying that tank.)

I refilled the reservoir, and then started the engine. It pulled some coolant and I just kept adding, keeping between MIN and MAX.

I used 50/50 mix. (I buy concentrate, since I hate paying for water. Plus, I can adjust to a higher concentration if I want.)

Here's a picture of some big jugs:


Big jugs.jpg

I got out 1 gallon of the ~2 gallon capacity. Good enough. I'll do that every other year. (1/2 of the volume every other year means that at the 10 year point (RAM's timing to swap it out), only 3% (1/32) original would be circulating. Average age of the total fluid at that point would be 1 15/16 years...call it 2 years old. MUCH better than their spec.)

Overall, it was one of the easiest radiator drains I've ever done. Not a drop spilled and the plug didn't fight me at all. There was no round out or over-torqueing sensation. The biggest difficulty is trying to get eyes on the plug. Once you know where it is, you'll have to feel your way to it, but then it's easy street.
 
I'm a big believer in early fluid changes. Yeah...100,000 mile/10 year coolant interval is what Mopar says. Other than cooling (and preventing freezing and boil over), coolant has sacrificial anode dissolved in it. Like the zinc block on a boat, it prevents the other metal from rotting and corroding. You know, stuff like aluminum and iron, etc. So, I change mine out every 2-3 years (or 4... Shrug.).

The drain plug on these trucks is a plastic "nut". It's more than just a nut. Here's a pic:



View attachment 190170

That's a spare. I bought 2 spares, in case I broke the installed one. (Plastic nuts and metal tools. Sigh.) I figured I'd be immobilized if I screwed up. A spare was about $8 online. I bought 2. ;)

If you look closely, you'll see a rectangular piece of plastic molded into one of the visible faces on the hex. There are two of these "ears", the other on the opposite face.

Without these ears, a 16mm socket would fit. Well, the ears prevent that. An 18mm would fit over them. Luckily, a 10mm allen socket fits INSIDE the drain nut.

Here's what it looks like, end-on, with the measurements.

View attachment 190171


Enough of that... FINDING the drain valve is a pain. It's hidden behind (what I think is) the intercooler hose. (<- I didn't look where that big hose came from, but that's my guess as I sit here typing this.)

It's at the driver's side, bottom, of the radiator. There's a little nipple under it. A 5/16" fuel hose fit on that perfectly, so I was able to direct the draining fluid straight into a bucket. Here are some shots of that.

View attachment 190172

This is from the passenger side, looking up and left. I left the 10mm allen socket installed still, so it'd be easier to tighten it up.

From the driver's side, looking up:

View attachment 190173

It took maybe 30 minutes for the flow to reduce to just dripping. It completely emptied the reservoir, and I could hear more draining, as well. Obviously, the radiator emptied. I did this cold, so the block and heater core didn't drain. Easier than being scalded. ;)

View attachment 190174

^^^
(Just a shot while it was in the midst of draining. It ended up emptying that tank.)

I refilled the reservoir, and then started the engine. It pulled some coolant and I just kept adding, keeping between MIN and MAX.

I used 50/50 mix. (I buy concentrate, since I hate paying for water. Plus, I can adjust to a higher concentration if I want.)

Here's a picture of some big jugs:


View attachment 190175

I got out 1 gallon of the ~2 gallon capacity. Good enough. I'll do that every other year. (1/2 of the volume every other year means that at the 10 year point (RAM's timing to swap it out), only 3% (1/32) original would be circulating. Average age of the total fluid at that point would be 1 15/16 years...call it 2 years old. MUCH better than their spec.)

Overall, it was one of the easiest radiator drains I've ever done. Not a drop spilled and the plug didn't fight me at all. There was no round out or over-torqueing sensation. The biggest difficulty is trying to get eyes on the plug. Once you know where it is, you'll have to feel your way to it, but then it's easy street.
Excellent post! Can you share the part number or a link to that plug? As easy as this was for you, can't hurt for many of us '19-'21 owners to get it done...
 
Highly recommend distilled water, tap water has been shown to cause issues.
 

Attachments

  • Screenshot_20240922_200136_Adobe Acrobat.jpg
    Screenshot_20240922_200136_Adobe Acrobat.jpg
    72.2 KB · Views: 15
Highly recommend distilled water, tap water has been shown to cause issues.

I was buying some distilled water at the grocery store, about 4 or 6 gallons. Some for cars, some to drink (this is before all the water bottles became available). The young lady asked about car issues...since it was distilled. (Like you suggested, that's the only type of water I'll add, whether it's cooling system, batteries, or (not as important) washer.) I stated some was for me to drink.

She was alarmed and told me that it is only for vehicles, NOT for drinking. Lol... ;)
 
I'm a big believer in early fluid changes. Yeah...100,000 mile/10 year coolant interval is what Mopar says. Other than cooling (and preventing freezing and boil over), coolant has sacrificial anode dissolved in it. Like the zinc block on a boat, it prevents the other metal from rotting and corroding. You know, stuff like aluminum and iron, etc. So, I change mine out every 2-3 years (or 4... Shrug.).

The drain plug on these trucks is a plastic "nut". It's more than just a nut. Here's a pic:



View attachment 190170

That's a spare. I bought 2 spares, in case I broke the installed one. (Plastic nuts and metal tools. Sigh.) I figured I'd be immobilized if I screwed up. A spare was about $8 online. I bought 2. ;)

If you look closely, you'll see a rectangular piece of plastic molded into one of the visible faces on the hex. There are two of these "ears", the other on the opposite face.

Without these ears, a 16mm socket would fit. Well, the ears prevent that. An 18mm would fit over them. Luckily, a 10mm allen socket fits INSIDE the drain nut.

Here's what it looks like, end-on, with the measurements.

View attachment 190171


Enough of that... FINDING the drain valve is a pain. It's hidden behind (what I think is) the intercooler hose. (<- I didn't look where that big hose came from, but that's my guess as I sit here typing this.)

It's at the driver's side, bottom, of the radiator. There's a little nipple under it. A 5/16" fuel hose fit on that perfectly, so I was able to direct the draining fluid straight into a bucket. Here are some shots of that.

View attachment 190172

This is from the passenger side, looking up and left. I left the 10mm allen socket installed still, so it'd be easier to tighten it up.

From the driver's side, looking up:

View attachment 190173

It took maybe 30 minutes for the flow to reduce to just dripping. It completely emptied the reservoir, and I could hear more draining, as well. Obviously, the radiator emptied. I did this cold, so the block and heater core didn't drain. Easier than being scalded. ;)

View attachment 190174

^^^
(Just a shot while it was in the midst of draining. It ended up emptying that tank.)

I refilled the reservoir, and then started the engine. It pulled some coolant and I just kept adding, keeping between MIN and MAX.

I used 50/50 mix. (I buy concentrate, since I hate paying for water. Plus, I can adjust to a higher concentration if I want.)

Here's a picture of some big jugs:


View attachment 190175

I got out 1 gallon of the ~2 gallon capacity. Good enough. I'll do that every other year. (1/2 of the volume every other year means that at the 10 year point (RAM's timing to swap it out), only 3% (1/32) original would be circulating. Average age of the total fluid at that point would be 1 15/16 years...call it 2 years old. MUCH better than their spec.)

Overall, it was one of the easiest radiator drains I've ever done. Not a drop spilled and the plug didn't fight me at all. There was no round out or over-torqueing sensation. The biggest difficulty is trying to get eyes on the plug. Once you know where it is, you'll have to feel your way to it, but then it's easy street.
Based on pH testing being done by some members on Facebook, I'd recommend doing this much more frequently than every other year. I am draining/refilling mine every 6 months. Acidic coolant will wreak havoc on the EcoD cooling system in particular and is how you end up with EGR cooler leaks. It's very cheap insurance (especially since you buy concentrate like I do). Guys are finding the Mopar coolant does not hold up very long in these engines, and is dipping into acidic territory in ~1 year... not enough to be immediately problematic, but it will cause damage over time. Since the drain/refill procedure doesn't fully flush the system, that is why I'm doing every 6 months. It's quick and easy, so why not?
 
  • Like
Reactions: c3k
You can pull the bottom radiator hose off to drain it, instead of messing with that plug
 
You can pull the bottom radiator hose off to drain it, instead of messing with that plug

That's what I usually do, but between the intercooler (ecodiesel) position and the funky clip on the radiator hose...I balked. ;)
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top